FazdaRX_8

iTrader: (1)

what your saying about the fuel being wooshed around because of the side port exhaust makes sense as to why the oil metering sucks, that extra fuel is diluting the oil and oil film, makes sense why premix works so well....

logalinipoo

well, I't finally looks like I've got my leak taken care of. and I found a gauge short that's been driving me a little crazy also. so I'll see how things go in the next few days.

Williard

iTrader: (18)

Glad to hear it's all finally working right Logan.

Have you figured a baseline DD WHP #? Just curious as to what your putting down is all.

You seriously need to get Google chats.

Any new ideas working in that noggin?


Travis

logalinipoo

Google chats huh, i have a gmail I wonder if I can just log in with that. Do any other's here use it?

Just a random guess for power. 180WHP stock 4 PSI boost+14.7=18.7/14.7=1.27 PR*180=229 WHP.

Wit the way it drove tonight. I think I'll be giving it a little increase in boost and timing. Working on the timing now.

I am also modifying my temp map to make my temp gauge actually read. needle straight up at 210 and maxed out at 220F. That might pull some timing and hurt top end power when it's getting hot, but that should help save the engine when it's getting hot.

logalinipoo

Rescaled the Temp sensor to show point straight up at 210F and redline at 220F

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...8/#post4690708

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Good work ... Might do this but with redline at 230

logalinipoo

TY sir, I thought it was a little low, but I'd rather start low and see how I like it.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Have found mine gets to about 220 and beyond fairly easily on track so want to be able to button off just before it hits 230

logalinipoo

I bumped mine up to 5 PSI boost and set up my base timing maps from 150-250% last night. After a pretty hard run just now down some twisties I never got over 188 and it quickley drops to 178 within 20-30 seconds of not driving hard.

MAF 295 Stock scale. 8152 max rpm

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

If I beat on mine hard for a good amount of time and stay in boost a lot I can get it to the 220-225F or so. But I run Evans, have a secondary rad, stronger fans, etc. It only takes a minute at cruise for it to drop 30F or so back to the normal 185-195F range where it sits 99% of the time on the street. If I stop the FAL fans can cool it down 30F+ in under a minute. Oil temps never get above 200-210F with my larger second BEHR cooler.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Nothing you can do on the road compares to the heat loads on track ....plus I run 11psi

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

I Imagine a track with no long straights would be brutal. I have a FAL fan controller that I plan to install so they run at low speeds.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

That's one thing that I have found counter-intuitive ..... on a track with nice long straights ......... it does nothing to reduce temps . I'm actually considering turning on the fans to run constantly on track ....

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Really? Mine usually builds temp up under boost in the twisties and then once I get straight up to speed the temps drop like a rock. But running thru the canyons is not a track so yeah. Fans on all the time might be a good idea on the track, you will have to experiment. I am happy with the waterless coolant so far and having the turbo on it's own cooling circuit.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

The difference being that on track your foot is on the floor the whole way down the straight ...so heat loads are always high . I have the entire bottom part of the bumper unobscured by the IC yet I still think that the speed the air goes through the rad is not high enough. I have only just found a way to keep the foam under the rad in place at high speed so hoping that will make a difference too .

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

yep, sealing the radiator shouldn't matter if you do this ... sealed at high speed is actually not ideal ...

logalinipoo

I've got a crapload of logs today, playing with throttle fuel gear and leaning out my turbo tune a bit.

I'll get back with my results on those, but right now I'm looking for clutch master and slave. one of them is going out.

logalinipoo

well' I'm fighting something else also. I've been driving around at 6 PSI with timing retarded and fuel at 10.5:1 while under boost. Everything has been running great. I haven't done any more tuning because my clutch is barely working.

So I crank it up a coupple of days ago and it smokes a lot, but only at idle. I thought it was load, but I'm idling at 28-33% load. Same as always. for some reason I'm showing 12 steps of OMP.

I backed the OMP tables way down, and when I'm still showing 8-12 steps on the OMP at idle, but i rev it up just a little and that drops to 3. Scratching my head and going crazy. It's smoking bad.

Any ideas?

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Hmmm. Do you have the turbo oil pressure regulator setup running yet? Is the smoke only when you come to idle after a run?

logalinipoo

Yes I've only ever ran the turbo with the regulator. I've seen a max of 76 to the turbo, but I idle around 20 PSI.

It smokes any time I idle. when I start to drive it goes away.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Those numbers seem fine. But smoking at idle was the problem I had when my turbo went. 76psi is still above the recommended max but your turbo is new so I doubt it is leaking that quickly. You might want to check the cold side piping for oil just to be safe.

logalinipoo

I'm pretty sure it's the omp. I'll try to get to the cold side pipe. it's horribly hard to get together after pulling.

The 76 PSI was only a spike while then oil was cold. That is also directly after the regulator. I still have another 2 Feet of -3AN hose. So the turbo probably didn't see that. I actually run 45-50 PSI when it's warmed up. And I now have a max of 4Krpm at 140 F. So I can't over pressure it again.

I think it's the omp since I normally idle at 4 steps. and 7 Smokes bad, but now it's at 8-12 steps for some reason.

FazdaRX_8

iTrader: (1)

what happens if you increase your idle to 1200?

Harlan

iTrader: (3)

Since the MOP position is demanded position and not actual position the problem is with what the ECU wants. Either your idle load is higher than it should be, or the throttle position is. My money is on load, check your fuel trims and idle MAF and something should pop out.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

post a pic of the MOP load-based map