ChrisRX8PR

iTrader: (1)

I am not talking piggyback, I am talking standalone. The Int-X is a stand alone unit not a piggy back. It is made to plug into the OEM harness for installation ease but its a standalone Microtech unit on the inside. The OEM computer is there just for dsc/tcs, power steering and Drive by wire throttle control, nothing more. It is there for the basic functions but does not touch the engine parameters.

Chris

Phish806

iTrader: (4)

Off topic, but what needs to be changed from the stock kit to upgrade to run e85? jsut larger injectors? would the 255 pump be large enough?

ChrisRX8PR

iTrader: (1)

Haha, no and no...:P

You do need larger injectors...but the pump is not enough....and the fuel rails are not enough...nor is the fuel feed line from the tank to the front. The system will have to be turned into a return system. The stock fuel like is used as a return and a new line is sent forward. If for under 380whp a single Bosch -044 fuel pump will do the trick. The injectors will have to be modified/changed. The Yellow secondaries need to have the cap tip removed, this turn them into 720cc injectors(it is good to have them flow matched...KGparts can do this for you for cheap), and they are used in the primary location. The 1000cc ones included in the kit are kept and another pair of 1000cc ones are installed alonside them in the secondary fuel rail. This is for 380whp and under....for over...two pumps are used....and a pair of 1680cc injectors are added to the mix.

An external FPR is used and KG parts fuel rails are also used for either conversion.

E-85 takes more volume....on gas we are already pushing the stock fuel line etc...

Once its done though...it is sooo worth it...more power for the same boost...lower EGT's by about 5-600deg, cooler running engine, no detonation....cheaper gas....

I love it...

Chris

Phish806

iTrader: (4)

I noticed that you had it listed on the products section of esmerils site but still not able to purchase. You have a price on a kit to go e85? There are E85 stations all over hell here and its actually hard to find 92 over 91 anymore and no 93 at all around. Not looking for crazy power but was looking for something a little less prone to detonation.

Symbioticgenius

Is it possible to have a dual tune. As in 1 Tune for E85, and another for 93 Oct without requiring a hardware change?

Obviously this would be for those times when you just cant reach an Ethanol Station.

ChrisRX8PR

iTrader: (1)

If you have an Int-X yes...you can have up to 4 maps and it takes seconds to switch between them.

Chris

Symbioticgenius

Chris I'm starting to love you :-)

Not sure if this is the right place to post this, but I wanted to know if you have noticed any cleaning properties regarding running Ethanol. I know there have been some great things said for Methanol and even Water Injection. Just wanted to know if Ethanol works out the same way and I know you have been in and out of your engine, so...?

turborx8

iTrader: (1)

Wow. This is the first time I have ever heard this. I want to upgrade my P2's to 720cc injectors. Now I can turn my OEM injectors into 720cc versions?

SWEET!

ChrisRX8PR

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the love man...I am engaged though so I doubt I'll be able to correspond...still...it is very appreciated ..haha

About Ethanol...yes its great...the one thing is that if your car has lots of residue from running fossil fuels in tank, fuel lines etc...switching to Ethanol will clean those out and they will end up in your fuel filters. it is recommended that unless you are running one of our entirely new fuel kits which change everything short of the tank...that you remove your fuel filter after about 5k and clean the filter element....it will be packed with crap...after that nothing will accumulate.

I also opened a motor that had been running on e85 for over a year...and it looked pristine...the rotor faces were way clean compared to all the carbon you normally encounter in these engines and even the spark plugs are kept clean...the turbo housing, and exhaust tips also stay clean for the most part.

I like it!

Chris

ChrisRX8PR

iTrader: (1)

It is true. And it works great. This is what KG parts does to your injectors to make them flow more. They do it for cheap too so it will be worth it to send them to them instead of doing it yourself because they will flow match them and you will get two that flow within about 5% of each other which is pretty good.

All that's needed is a Dremel type tool with a cutting disk. Then you run it around the tiny laser weld that holds the cap tips(has 4 tiny holes) onto the injector tip and then you just pull it off and smooth the edge off to ensure nothing sharp is there. Now it will flow roughly 720cc. Its pretty simple.

Chris

Symbioticgenius

Int-X can increase flow of OMP?

ChrisRX8PR

iTrader: (1)

No it cannot. Increasing the flow of the OMP is not needed though. You have the same components moving at the same speeds, why would you need more oil? On top of that, the components are running colder if you have a turbo because your afr's will be lower than stock so your EGT's will be lower too.

If you want to increase the OMP injection you will need an ECU reflash.

Chris

Vlaze

iTrader: (14)

Chris, I've read into this Esmeril Turbo kit for some time to get details. However I have a few concerns based on my experience from my racing days. We used methanol for fuel which is known to corrode aluminum fittings say if someone wanted to use the A/N fittings. Is why we shut the fuel off while the car is running and let itself empty all the fuel off in the fuel lines dies off in a matter of seconds. It's not suggested to leave methanol for a long period of time present in these fittings. Usually each year during winter time I would spend cleaning out the fittings and other components made of aluminum for the fuel delivery to get the corrosion cleaned up.

Also methanol is a brother/sister to ethanol and is known for absorbing water. This means normal paper filter fuel filters are not a smart option to use ( I have yet to look into what filter the Rx8 uses for fuel) since it will deteriorate the paper and bonding materials..

These are just a few concerns. I know additives can be added to the fuel to help fight off the corrosion with the fittings but I'm interested to hear what your thoughts on this are.

ChrisRX8PR

iTrader: (1)

I know methanol is corrosive to aluminum, it is a very strong solvent. Ethanol however and their origins are completely different, and so are their molecules (part of the reason you can drink ethanol and not methanol). Not to mention that E-85 has additives added to it along with 15% gas to allow to run in engines(lubricants and corrosion resistors).

It is true about the paper filters, that is why we recommend they get replaced within 5k miles of switching to E-85. The Ethanol in E-85 will tend to dissolve the adhesive used in many paper filters. We took all this into account when switching.

E-85 will not eat away at the fuel fittings or hose. It is not nearly as corrosive as Methanol, there is absolutely no comparison...the fact that they both end in "thanol" does not mean they are similar chemicals, it just means they are a type of alcohol that is all.

Best regards,

Chris

Vlaze

iTrader: (14)

Thanks for the clarification.

While I knew they weren't the same and didn't connote similarity because of the "thanol" they do have similar composition from what I've read and both have soluble and insoluble contaminants. Methonal indeed is the most corrosive of the two, ethanol itself can overtime corrode without proper maintenance I believe. I don't think it's adequate to say it cannot whatsoever corrode the fittings, but rather to say it does so minimally contrast to methanol. The fact is still does corrode is why they look to eliminating any magnesium, aluminum and natural rubber in fuel delivery for flexible fuel vehicles (FFV) for long term use.

Rather they suggest switching to stainless steel or more properly treated material per say if one wants to use aluminum then at least nickel plate (NiP) or anodize the fitting which must be done internally as well obviously. For rubber, neoprene, viton, etc should be used. I believe using some additives with the E85 fuel will help eliminate this concern if using it for a long period of time, but that's just my 2 cents.

You say to replace the filter within 5k of switching to E85. That's only initially, what about maintenance wise? If you're still using the same style filter I would think it will involve more replacements contrast to regular gas which is still quite low, but just bringing up a point to question.

ChrisRX8PR

iTrader: (1)

I agree. The Ethanol used in cars however, already has many anti-corrosive additives so as not to hurt the internals of the engine which are still magnesium/aluminum based in many instances. And yes ethanol is still corrosive but what many people know is that pure gasoline is also corrosive (although much less) and without the additives that are in it the injection system would seize up as well. Maybe pure ethanol but I don't see lubricated ethanol that is mixed with gas eating away at the AN fittings in a fuel system, maybe over a period of 20 years it might eat away .0001" of material but nothing to worry about. In 20 years the fuel system will be failing for other reasons anyways like old rubber on hoses or fatigued components etc.

About the filter, once you run E-85 for 5k miles it will ahve cleaned your entire system. the residues it removes are from using fossil based fuel, ethanol has none of this so once it is cleaned out, there will be almost no residue so changing the filter regularly will not be needed, just regular maintenance like on a normal car (ie. change fuel filter at 100k or so). And when I say replace I mean to a metallic filter not a paper one. You leave the paper one for the first 3-5k to catch everything the E-85 cleans out of your system and then you replace it with a suitable metallic element and forget about it there after.

Chris

Vlaze

iTrader: (14)

Ah, there we go. That was the answer I was looking for, just checking

Symbioticgenius

Interesting, I was under the impression that the tune on the INT-X would overwrite any flashing done. In that context it might be worth having both an Accessport for certain protocols, and the INT-X for your engine. Interesting.

ChrisRX8PR

iTrader: (1)

Exactly, together they would be great. The reason the Accesport would still work is because although the Microtech controls engine parameters, the OEM ECU still opens and closes the APV valves, controls the throttle body and also the OMP.

Chris

ChrisRX8PR

iTrader: (1)

If this is true I am willing to experiment with the Cobb then...

It might prove more user friendly.

Chris

chickenwafer

iTrader: (9)

It still needs to be housed in a 3.5" ID Pipe, airflow needs to be laminar, and the maf gets peged at 500 grams/sec, which I am sure you are well over, Chris.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

why not put it in a 4" pipe and tune to suit that ?
Not 100% but perhaps still better than MAP tuning .....

chickenwafer

iTrader: (9)

It could probably work....obviously your grams/sec will be read lower than usual, so that number would effectively be fluff.

I know we use the same Denso MAF element that STi's use, which are commonly run in a blow-thru setup.