Would be better answered in the tuning sub forum

AFR Values
6.0 AFR - Rich Burn Limit (engine fully warm)
9.0 AFR - Black Smoke / Low Power
11.5 AFR - Best Rich Torque at Wide Open Throttle
12.2 AFR - Safe Best Power at Wide Open Throttle
13.3 AFR - Lean Best Torque
14.6 AFR - Stoichiometric AFR (Stoich)
15.5 AFR - Lean Cruise
16.5 AFR - Usual Best Economy
18.0 AFR - Carbureted Lean Burn Limit
22.0+ AFR - EEC / EFI Lean Burn Limit

Thanks, I was a bit inaccurate regarding what I was totally lost at; I was wondering about how AFR inflicts on timing advance and split timing. I got the understanding that by having a richer mixture than ±13:1, you could do some things with these two to improve performance slightly..?

By the way, optimal AFR looks to be slightly different from engine to engine, therefore many numbers are flying around on the interwebz. Attached are a paper from Toyota.

Again I would direct this towards the tuning section.

Series I Engine Tuning Forum - RX8Club.com

More specifically

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-eng...urther-253444/

How do you like the Megan Racing suspension parts? I was looking at them, but wanted to find out what other companies had parts available for it. Any pointers?

In hind sight I would stick with OE, and if I do anything in the future I will go back to those (Probably the Mazdatrix modified OE bars). Megan has never been a company known for their quality but for what they charge for these bars I would expect more. The hardware corrodes fast, they do not provide flange nuts with their hub connectors so I almost lost a wheel because of the sleeve backing out over only 300 miles of driving so you need to re-use your OE hub nuts.

Their is more than enough adjustment available on OE bars to render these useless unless your slammed in which case you do not care about function anyways.

Mazdatrix doesn't modify those. They are coming from Mazda Motorsports and made by SpeedSource I believe ...

An NA Renesis makes the best power running leaner than the AFRs noted above.

Looking for some help, been struggling to get an inspection done before I start my SC build and have had problem after problem.

Swapped, currently getting a P2270 and -12% LTFT (at idle) but AFR is fine and STFT are 0 to -2%. I am thinking I have an exhaust leak on my EGR tube causing this issue.

Recently the only systems I have touched is swap back my OE header and CAT, which included taking my intake off (but I only touched two clamps on that so doubt I hav a vacuum leak as I still pull dead 5.5g/sec)

On other side notes, my rear disc has cracked (after 5K miles) and a oil cooler core has ruptured. So I am having a good time :lol:

P2270 is showing for the rear 02 sensor. You might not have it plugged in correct or maybe pulled a wire loose. Why don't you just block the code? That is one of the recommended MM codes to block. Team has posted it a few times here and there also.

Its not about blocking codes, its about getting monitors ready, if I block the code but internally the code is supposed to trigger or something in the system is not working correctly the monitor will not become active.

Plus this is not a code that I would block and ignore when my LTFT have a problem.

The rear sensor has no known connection to fuel trims. Supposedly with all the MM codes blocked your car will reach readynes. Even without the rear 02 sensor and air pump. I am running with all those codes blocked and no rear 02 or air pump currently. I'll see if I can pass or not in july.

Silly Qs, have you cleaned and checked mounting of MAF sensor, vac tubes connections and AEM mesh screen positions (they can dislodge on install causing crazy trims)?

You need to clear the fuel trims, then monitor/log them as it starts to correct to see what's going on with AFR, stft, etc. Also need to keep an eye on coolant level to make sure your not losing any internally in the engine.

I think the LTFT are going to turn out to be a tune, I forgot I was on the OE tune when I pulled those, going to my tune with a cleared table the where at -3%, but I also think I have a leak in my air tube of the header.

Now just waiting on parts..........................

You went to all that trouble just to put it up for sale instead? Wow ...

Logically it makes sense to me at this time in my life......I doubt it will sell and will continue to stay in my garage under the cover for the next couple of years before I care about it.

In a different place in my life, if it sells it sells. If it doesn't I'm fine leaving it covered for a couple years.

It's a good price, should sell for that ....

Sad to hear you are selling it, great car for the price.

That alternator is a thing of beauty. *As well as the rest but that just sticks out.

Just finished reading this thread from start to end. Amazing amount of sweat, blood and tears into this project.

I've never seen so much passion for a car, i feel the same way but the only difference is that i don't have that much money to invest in the car for now. I love my 8 and even though it gives me a lot of issues i will not let my car down as my first i will tune it and keep it for fun.

End of a chapter, Car was picked up on 11/9/16. Was an awesome project and a pleasure to own. On to other things, hoping for another rotary in my not to distant future.

Ill still be around every once in a while, feel free to PM me with anything.

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/102...905/wks4Hs.jpg

Hopefully the next owner is on here to give us some updates on it.