Scott, why can't I PM you?

 

You gotta be my friend. I was getting too many ******' noobs PMing me with ridiculous questions.

 

I have a NOOb question, add me

 

I'll run a used transmission all day long, they generally outlive the engine two to three times over. lol

 

The day has been scheduled, Monday I have my appointment for my first dyno run, followed by a couple of weeks of tuning and then a finished dyno hopefully by late August (Hoping to be on the bottle by then too).

Car is pulling great.

Coolant temp, rarely above 180 even on hot days
Oil temp, stays 10 degrees lower than coolant
Oil Pressure, peaks at 120 PSI and holds firm
A/F, good 14.2 cruise & hard 12 under WOT
IAT, 7-8 degrees above ambient

MPG 19, much better than last year and my driving habits have not changed. at least not for the better

To anyone interested I have the following item still available, make me an offer I'm more than willing to negotiate.
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-parts-s...7/#post4501166
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-parts-s...4/#post4501159
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-parts-s...3/#post4501158
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-parts-s...2/#post4501157
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-parts-s...1/#post4501153
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-parts-s...1/#post4501170

 

Clean setup, very attentive on the whole build.

 

What temp is your oil thermostat? You really want your oil temps at 200F, at 170F degrees you are barely over what the minimum temp should be. According to an email discussion with a tech at Mobil1, the safest minimum operating temp of the oil is around 160F and optimum temp is 200-220F (not rotary considered I am sure but still).

 

175 it opens, it recircs until then. It does get up to 190 but I have to push it really hard. Plus I feel my sensor location is slightly lower than actual anyways.

I am not seeing any temps above 200 so far, unless I let it sit and idle under direct sun for 20 mins.

Their is a lot of oil in this car now, took a full 10 gallons. Not sure what I can do to help it reach optimal operating temp

 

Well if you are in the 190's pushing it then that is okay. Overcooling is not really a concern on these cars IMO. Go do a mountain run during the summer, I am curious what your temps will be when pushing hard for an extended period of time.

 

I did through a CEL in the first 100 miles for the cooling circuit low, I forgot the code. It basically boiled down to the car took to long or never reached an operating temperature over a certain period of time. Threw me for a second, maybe I did over build this a little to much

Haven't seen any CEL other than p0420 (catless) since then.

 

Move to South Texas, you will never have that code again, I have breaking in a bone stock RX-8 to work all week that a friend bought and repaired to flip and it is averaging coolant temps of 200-208F during my commute.

 

Im sure I will be pushing it in the next couple of weeks during tuning. I am glad this engine is running richer than my last. Looking back, my dyno last year A/F under WOT where at 13.8, im settling around 12 now. Excited and scared for Mondays run

 

Steve Kan told me that worn engines and engines losing compression generally run leaner. When he was tuning my car and Sifu's he mentioned it and it seems he may have been right since sifu's engine only has 4,000 miles on it and my most recent oil report indicates my engine is wearing fairly quickly.

 

My tear down, showed very little wear. Cam said for all intensive purposes the bearings and all internals looked almost brand new

Regardless under the same circumstances you would assume going from 13.8 to 12 should yeild better numbers. Here's to hoping

 

Oh okay, your last engine didn't fail? Yeah for the Race NA 13B's you will see AFR's anywhere from mid 12's to mid 13's depending on the tuner.

 

No, their was absolutely nothing wrong with my last engine, actually my 230WHP dyno was performed only 3 weeks before this build started.

This build for me was strictly informational, and focused on reliability. A proactive build as to cut out foreseeable future failure before I started going crazy building up this car. Regardless how heathy my motor was, facts are facts it was still 10 years old.

 

Gotcha.

 

Starting to think my shifter noise is going to turn into a drive-line problem

Had a tech tell me he thinks its my input shaft bearing, :uhh that would suck.

Going to take some time today, remove the starter inspect the flywheel for backlash ensure its all tight. Then on to the shifter. All this fails might be contacting Mazdatrix about what can be done about this as the entire trans needs to be gutted to get to the bearing.

Hoping for the best.

 

Turns out it was just a plastic bushing on the shifter itself, much better now.

Will update with this evenings results later.

 

Wha ????

 

HAHA ment liters!

 

Good News and Bad News Time!

Car makes substantially more power then before!!

Have a misfire issue above 7K RPM

Unfortunately we were unable to see what it can do, and now I am back in diagnostics mode.

Going to check

Plug gap
Plug t/q
BHR ignition ground
All else fails, plug in my OE coils.

 

Since you rebuilt, have you done the brake stomp method to reset the NVRAM? It's something commonly missed after a rebuild.

 

Yup, got the oil indicator to sweep too.

Will do it again though. IDK not sure if its something with the BHR coils and dwell time related, but its the most common ignition upgrade and no one else sees issue with it.

Also anyone know what our plug gap spec is?

 

they can have bad coils too.....