I realized what day it was today...well yesterday...and i wished you were kidding. lol

We will get that bitch running in no time. oh yah...if you dont wanna rebuild the motor. ill take it off your hands

 

Nope, definitely not an April Fools joke. Car won't even start up. Just dumps fuel and backfires loud when you try. Also found out that 2 of the coils are fried... I'll start tearing the manifolds off tomorrow, if I'm not so lazy, in preparation for the swap possibly next weekend.

Back to driving Nick's Miata until I get her up and running again. So uncomfortable...

 

IMHO, mid-11's while tuning at 6k or so is too lean.
I know that sounds wrong, but you really want to be in the low 11's or even high 10's (if your ignition system can handle it) until you are dead-certain of your ignition timing.

There is no such thing as "stronger seals".
NO seal - no matter what it is made out of - will survive detonation.
The only engine builder that will recommend "stronger" seals are the ones that are selling seals.
Ceramic seals and such are not meant to survive detonation.

Was one of them a leading coil? If so, that is what toasted your motor.

 

So the Esmeril seals are a waste of time in your opinion ?
What about 1 piece seals ? I know they like to fail at the splitt so getting rid of that has to be an improvement ....

 

Completely.

They don't "fail" at the split - that is just what happens with a seal with a corner piece. The two parts of the seal get hyper-extended by the detonation and lift out of the groove. One part leaves and the other chips.
The stacked seals made their own split when they failed. lol
A one piece will just shatter wherever it will.
The end result is the same - a trashed housing. There is no way around it.
On the peripheral exhaust rotaries, there was always the possibility that the seal would go out the port without damaging the housing. We aren't so lucky.

 

Sure severe detonation will kill anything but there must be the possibility to make seals that are LESS PRONE to failure than stock.
I know even the stock seal will take a certain amount - why wouldn't a superior material choice/design offer better resistance ?

 

BHR ignition soon ships out the 8th

 

Because there are only two kinds of detonation - damaging and catastrophic.

The stock seals don't "take" detonation - they let some get by into the next chamber.
If anything, you would want a softer seal that would take minor detonation without breaking.
But it would still fail under typical detonation and the wear would be unacceptable in a street car. Remember, the apex seal is, essentially, a dry seal.
A harder seal would just break at even lower levels of detonation.

Its hard to conceive of a "better" material than the stock seals. Mazda's seals are made out of an extremely exotic, low yield material and are borne out of decades of research.

 

One leading one trailing coil failed. Both on the front rotor.

 

Wow. That's bad luck.
Though that wouldn't have caused the detonation the way just a failing lead would, unless they failed sequentially.
Stock coils?

 

bet they are stock leads as well . Good leads seem to make all the difference with stock coils

 

Stock coils with high mileage, Magnecore 8.5mm leads that were only a few thousand miles old. new plugs.

 

Picked up the new motor today.

31,393 miles, out of an 05' that had severe side impact damage. Got a 90 warranty with it, as well. Not that it really matters. $1400 out the door. If I get home from work at a decent time tonight, I may start tearing the upper manifold and turbo off the motor in the car. Will be replacing this thing next weekend.

 

That's a pretty decent price.
Most of the yard motors are $1800+ for less than 35k miles.

 

Good deal i need a second "just in case engine" I found one awhile back 1,200 pulled off a wreck with 70k which means it could be on its way out anyway...so i didnt go through with it.

 

This time around, I'm only gonna upgrade the p2's. Just sent off some stock primary's and secondaries for cleaning and flow testing. Probably won't start it until the Ignition gets here. Suppose to ship on the 8th, from what I understand.

While the motor is out, I'll also tackle ripping out all the black felt crap. It's torn and ratty. I'd like to get it nice and clean in there, So We'll see how it goes.

 

Did some reading up on the 7 forum and came to the conclusion that there is no majic cureall for our seal issues but a seal that deforms rather than breaks is a a good option for the average joe on the street who does not want to replace 1/2 their engine whenever an apex goes
Also - meth injection ...............

 

I'd generally agree with this, except there isn't a whole lot of good data as to which seal really bends rather than breaks.
Its pretty safe to say any ceramic is out of the question, so you just have OE and Atkins to choose from as far as I know.

Also, understand that W/M causes a loss of power (3 - 5 per 100 WHP) when simply added to the existing tune.
As a safety margin, I'd say that acceptable if your setup already makes past the 300 mark.

 

This motor will be getting W/M in the very near future, just for the added protection. Will also start premixing from the get go this time.

 

A 61mm ish turbo is definitely plenty for any street driven car. We finished another Td61 powered Fd3s today, and at 21psi it needs 84 percent of the 550/2200cc injector combo...

 

Had some time last night to get the new motor torn down and ready for installation. Today I worked on getting the upper manifolds, harness, alternator, etc. off the blown motor to be removed saturday morning. I should be 99% done aside from putting in the LS2 ignition saturday night. Hopefully that comes early next week. Wish I had a camera to use, but I don't, so no pics this time around

 

I love the pace of this project -- looking forward to more progress.

Have you tested the compression on the engine you are dropping in? Did you test the compression on the old motor before the install?

 

Compression tested the old motor before the install. It was good.

New motor tested good on compression as well. Atleast the paper work with it says it has good compression. I'll be testing it again before I get too far. It's got a money back guaruntee that there are no issues, so I'm covered either way.

 

Old motor came out today. Engine bay got a bit of a detail as well. Gonna go ahead and install the new motor tomorrow, and attempt to get the car washed up, since I won't have ignition to fire it up.

Unrelated news: Installed clear corners today too Looks MUCH better IMO.

 

ITS ALIVE once again!!! :D