Brettus turbo 11
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To get the 60-1 (or the 57 for that matter) to perform you need to do what I have done with the wastegate . This is the main reason my setup makes so much more power than anyone elses . I have explained how to do this on numerous occasions but don't recommend it unless you have an engine built for boost.
As for what is the potential - 350whp with the 60-1 and an optimised greddy kit is totally doable .
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The AP is not a true 3" from what I recall. My Turbo XS is but then I have the BHR midpipe so the resonator has to restrict it a bit I would think. I'm not sure any of it makes a difference though. I have been thinking of slapping the Turbo XS midpipe on and see if there is a difference in the butt dyno.
Hmm, I guess I was thinking of a different one. Do they only make one version? I have installed at least 10 different RX8 exhaust systems and I could have sworn the AP I installed last as like 2.5" or something. But obviously the pic you posted is 3" so maybe I am thinking of an Ebay one or the megan. I do know tbk here locally had the AP and the tips looked like **** after a month since they are just thin sheet metal tips.
of course you would, but it's not
neither is BHR
they neck down to the OE donut size in the rear and also for the exhaust manifold/header connection in the front
not only that, but at the rear they don't even neck it down properly with a reducer, they just run the 3" pipe into a flange with the smaller hole and donut pipe size on the discharge side, which is the worst possible flow connection. It acts as a restricting orifice that way. You can just cut that off and replace it as per my earlier post
.
neither is BHR
they neck down to the OE donut size in the rear and also for the exhaust manifold/header connection in the front
not only that, but at the rear they don't even neck it down properly with a reducer, they just run the 3" pipe into a flange with the smaller hole and donut pipe size on the discharge side, which is the worst possible flow connection. It acts as a restricting orifice that way. You can just cut that off and replace it as per my earlier post
.
Last edited by TeamRX8; Jul 1, 2013 at 09:15 PM.
I disagree teamrx8,
I made a custom 3" downpipe that connected to this 3" flange however that ID might be 2.5. in that case you may be right, but your part would fix that, I wanted to keep that OEM bit so I could go back to OEM stuff.

then looking at a comparison of a stock cat vs an ap midpipe. it seems the OEM donut is 3" despite being 2.5 inch pipe

so I say its really close to a true 3" exhaust.
I made a custom 3" downpipe that connected to this 3" flange however that ID might be 2.5. in that case you may be right, but your part would fix that, I wanted to keep that OEM bit so I could go back to OEM stuff.

then looking at a comparison of a stock cat vs an ap midpipe. it seems the OEM donut is 3" despite being 2.5 inch pipe

so I say its really close to a true 3" exhaust.
Last edited by FazdaRX_8; Jul 1, 2013 at 10:30 PM.
Hmm, I guess I was thinking of a different one. Do they only make one version? I have installed at least 10 different RX8 exhaust systems and I could have sworn the AP I installed last as like 2.5" or something. But obviously the pic you posted is 3" so maybe I am thinking of an Ebay one or the megan. I do know tbk here locally had the AP and the tips looked like **** after a month since they are just thin sheet metal tips.
you can always sand off the blue tint and polish them to be shiny "chrome" like, or you can take a torch and reburn them.
Well the tips are not dual walled or cooled like others so no matter how much you polish them, the look like **** again soon after. I worked hard to keep my hks tips looking good but it was a losing battle. My turboxs tips look great after several years.
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neither is BHR
they neck down to the OE donut size in the rear and also for the exhaust manifold/header connection in the front
not only that, but at the rear they don't even neck it down properly with a reducer, they just run the 3" pipe into a flange with the smaller hole and donut pipe size on the discharge side, which is the worst possible flow connection. It acts as a restricting orifice that way. You can just cut that off and replace it as per my earlier post
.
they neck down to the OE donut size in the rear and also for the exhaust manifold/header connection in the front
not only that, but at the rear they don't even neck it down properly with a reducer, they just run the 3" pipe into a flange with the smaller hole and donut pipe size on the discharge side, which is the worst possible flow connection. It acts as a restricting orifice that way. You can just cut that off and replace it as per my earlier post
.
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Just did another test to try see if the 2.25 rear pipe was the restriction or the muffler . Not hard to see which it is .......................
Green line : everything connected
Red line : muffler disconnected only , rear 2.25" pipe still in place .
Blue line : rear pipe disconnected - stock midpipe only .

Sounded real sweet with the muffler disconnected though
Green line : everything connected
Red line : muffler disconnected only , rear 2.25" pipe still in place .
Blue line : rear pipe disconnected - stock midpipe only .

Sounded real sweet with the muffler disconnected though
Last edited by Brettus; Jul 6, 2013 at 08:03 PM.
Holy ****... Thats a significant loss of flow through almost the entire RPM range.
I am even more pumped to install my 3" Vband out DP and make my system a true 3" all the way through...
Also I am copying most of your setup except I am going with OEM FD seals
I am even more pumped to install my 3" Vband out DP and make my system a true 3" all the way through...
Also I am copying most of your setup except I am going with OEM FD seals
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Don't forget the stock midpie was still in place - dunno if more is to be gained by going 3" all the way but I'm already well over 200% load in places , which is not ideal ,so maybe i'm better to leave it .



