Its more likely that having a restrictive exhaust (Turbo, smaller exhaust piping, etc) coupled with higher oil pressure is causing the high "crankcase" pressure or blowby...

In a factory setup the renesis has a cutoff seal which prevents blowby, thats its only job!

Once you add a turbo crankcase pressures rise dramatically, adding an oil pressure mod does not help.

Thats my theory at least, I'd like to think its sound since 9k and I ran nearly identical setups minus me having a stock oil pressure regulator and him having the upgraded one.

He also had a much more restrictive exhaust.

 

I pulled out a quart of oil yesterday at lunch and the problem seems to have disappeared for now. My catch can was full as well. But we shall see when I throw the restrictor on and then the regulator when I get it. My bet is that it is a combination of inadequate crank case ventilation and too much oil pressure. I mean I would think there is reason the REW guys run huge catch cans with 5/8" lines at times.

 

 

yeah I guess it makes more sense that Most turbo guys have bad side seals right after they install a turbo.

yup I better go replace my engine.... again, I guess that means brettus's and 9krpms reputable engine builders really actually suck, I guess its time to sale the car because there is no one left but teamrx8 who can do it right.....

 

My engine may very well be on the way out, that is why I will be purchasing a new one here soon. But that doesn't change the fact that I have too much oil pressure at the turbo. I had thought of regulating it when I did the initial install and I should have.

But then again Turdblown rebuilt my turbo so who knows if it was actually rebuilt or even balanced again after the billet wheel was put on. So my turbo could be in need a rebuild as well. But either way when I pull the engine it's getting a rebuild.

 

Team doesn't build engines he pays the most expensive rotary builder in the planet to build his.

But he gets results so ya cant really say hes wrong.

 

Not naming names are we

 

Daryl Drummond!

By far the best rotary builder I've seen, at least the most detailed for sure.

But its still a rotary at the end of the day and a renesis at that so it doesn't matter.

 

Your right its still a glass motor.

 

Have you guys ever looked at your turbo drains? Smoking at idle can often be caused by a not gravity fed oil drain or the oil pan being too full and blocking the drain. I've seen some turbo kits tap right into the pan which doesn't help either.

I run -10 lines for my venting. I have 3 lines that go to my catch can. One goes to the oil filler neck, one goes to the rear iron on the passenger side, and the other goes to the front cover acting as a drain so I never have to empty the can.

thewird

 

a lot of condensation/water builds in my can I would not want that back in my oil

I know this to be my problem, there really isn't a another good place for the drain, unless I did something to the front cover on my top mount setup.
that's why I don't car about a little smoke at idle

 

Does water not evaporate at operating oil temperature...

thewird

 

Is operating oil temperature 100 degrees C

 

There are two separate issues here .
Oil bypassing the turbo seals and getting into the exhaust or intake . This is obviously caused by too much oil pressure at the turbo .


Or oil traveling up the filler/vent and into the catch can which is what I was having trouble with.

Oil into the catch can is undoubtedly cased by air rushing up the vent/filler carrying oil with it . Some of that air will be from blowby past the side seals but I believe some could be coming through the turbo (via the oil drain) as well . If you ever try leak test a system with the turbo included in the test you will hear air leaking through the turbo . If it can leak in a stationary test it could well leak with the turbo spooling as well.

 

The compressor isn't a perfect seal with backplate as its a metal to metal seal, its normal for it to leak unless it has an o-ring which most turbo's don't have. U can put a smudge of a non-hardening sealer like hylomar if you want the compressor housing sealed to the backplate properly.

thewird

 

To add to all this I do have some real world experience I can share .

With my previous setup I did around 80,000 kms on that turbo . I ran similar boost to what I do now (less at high rpm though). I never had any issue with excessive oil in my catch can .
That engine had blowby issues as it wore out and destroyed the corner seal lands . I know this because I did a test - It involves running the tube from the filler neck to the inside of the car so you can actually feel how much air is coming through the tube under boost . Interesting to me was that the amount of blowby under boost was significantly more than it was at 0psi. Hence , when combined with the leak test observation ...............the turbo leak theory . As a side observation , I tried this test straight after an oil change and noticed a marked reduction in blowby .

I have done this test with my current setup as well - blowby is minimal and not anywhere near what i used to have with the old setup . Admittedly , I have not tried this test at 8000rpm in the higher gears.

So , what has changed that might affect things ?
1: more boost at high rpm
2: oil pressure is higher

While I'm not dismissing what Team is saying about side seal wear entirely , the above observations do point to a different conclusion .

 

the only accurate conclusion is to tear it down and see ...

 

Yes actually. It is higher then that

thewird

 

^ Sarcasm?

 

Maybe you should get a gauge and have a look at it under spirited driving. Not to mention any amount of track usage.

thewird

 

My oil rarely gets above that and that is with a turbo adding heat to it. It will get above that if I push it hard in this 100F+ weather but that is rare. When I was NA, it never got that hot. I have had an oil temp gauge in my 8 for years.

 

I was being sarcastic, operating oil temp hardly ever gets that high, 99% of the time its around 200F.

 

Guess you guys don't drive your cars. Not even adding turbo's to the mix, I see N/A RX-8's hit 240*F on track. Hell, just sitting in traffic its gonna approach 200*F.

Edit: should probably note pan temperature is different from where most of you guys take your readings at the oil filter after its been cooled by the oil coolers already.

thewird

 

Where are their sensors mounted? If its the filter neck (Oil Cooler return line) and they are seeing temps off above 220 then their is something seriously wrong with their cars.

 

If you see NA RX-8's hit 240F oil temps then something is not right. Unless you are talking JDM models with one oil cooler but I don't even think those guys see temps that high. You cannot get any hotter than tracking in south Texas during the summer and I have never heard of anyone hitting above 220F on the track, turbo or NA.