If you stopped snapping bolts off and cross threading things you'd have no friends at all!

 

Shhhh, I haven't broken any bolts in over a week!

 

Come on up to Austin I need your destructive capabilities on these bushings!

 

Not as easy as it sounds, have fun getting that top bolt tight!

 

Oh boy. I advise doing the dp bolts before puting the motor back down on the mounts. You're gonna need every last millionth of a millimeter you can get down there

 

And a very looooooooooong *** 1/4 drive extension .

 

I am using allen head bolts so with an allen socket and extension I can get at the fairly easy (famous last words) actually.

 

I told you that looked super tight man...

 

When I took my engine to the engine shop the old guy at the shop told me to never use hardware store junk bolts (as he called them). So I actually did a bit of research as to what the numbers meant on the bolt heads and the differences between metric bolts and SAE bolts and I found the steel bolts I bought from Lowes were really low grade and not heat treated. The same goes for the bolts that Autozone, Oreilly's and Advance carry.

The guy at Advance told me only NAPA or fastenal would carry bolts like that. I did get some nuts from Fastenal and Advance special ordered the studs I needed but neither had what I wanted otherwise so I went to NAPA and got the allen head shoulder bolts I wanted because they are heat treated and Grade 12.9. They had the best assortment of high strength heat treated bolts so that is my go to place. They also have 10.9 (grade 8) hex bolts that are heat treated so I will go with those I guess since it is too tight of a fit to go with shoulder bolts.

I highly recommend studs on the manifold to turbo connection but only three, the fourth hole at the rear is a bitch to get too so I used a grade 8 heat treated hex bolt there with a lock washer since it was easy to get too using a rachet end wrench. using a stud and a nut there could be a pain but still doable.

The allen head shoulder bolts worked fine on the air pump port (using my RB block off plate) on the downpipe and the oil drain fitting so since I have them, You should use them at those areas. I also used allen head shoulder bolts and lock washers on the inlet pipe and outlet pipe of the turbine. The inlet requires two bolts of the same size but the turbine outlet pipe requires one shirt bolt and one long bolt. Shoulder bolts hold the inter-cooler to the brackets as well.

 

I like the new avatar!

 

+1

I had to laugh a little when I noticed it.

This better be the weekend that you get it started....

 

The avatar is courtesy of RIWWP Bunch of smart asses we have here

 

I think he is going as slow as possible to save on his yearly mileage. There really cant be any other excuse.

 

I like to take my time. I tighten one bolt a day, that way I don't break any.

 

 

Oh my bad I thought this was the lounge...

 

^its okay Shady, at least that song gives us some entertainment...

 

HAHAHAHA... Poor 9k I'll stop busting your ***** man, who am I to talk I'll prolly take just as long as you.

 

It's all good, I love that song!! no matter how long i take I Zumn will always have the slowest build thread

 

its not a build thread if you give up and buy a DD while waiting to build it.

 

i think i got you all beat..

 

^

Okay who thinks this would be a good filter for the oil feed line?

http://www.jpcycles.com/product/740-...1&zmap=740-823

or do you think an inline transmission filter would be a better option?

http://www.race-mart.com/Hastings_Fi...HAF-TF109.html

I keep reading about how even a little bit of debri can ruin a journal bearing turbo, I'd rather play it safe.

 

Found it!!

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/TURBO-OIL-FEE...item3a68a3b4fa

 

Shipping is twice the product price lawlz. eBay kills me

 

I already told you it would be!