The 3 inch cut may help you if you choose to still have the BHR spacer on. Though it won't be aligned straight against the TB regardless. If you are serious about doing both nitrous and turbo... good luck.

 

No I think I will likely sell it.


Edit: Just read up, not a good idea to use nitrous on the inter-cooler if your air filter is near by .

 

I am sending you a piece of 80mm OD aluminum tube and a silicone coupler with t-bolt clamps to restore the t-body elbow end once I receive them. It is all on order, but the tube is coming from England. When I received it there was a smaller tube with a piece of rubber hose between it and the ID of the cut elbow end where it had been pushed into it. I have no f'ing clue what the person who did it was trying to accomplish. I am guessing that 3-4" of straight length was removed from the elbow.

The piece I an sending you is 12" long and you will need to cut it to the appropriate length as we previously discussed.


.

 

Thanks man, I appreciate it. I can get the jet air nozzle in that piece in the meantime.

 

get the turbo and tune sorted and you wont ever think about nitrous again .

 

True. I just hate to sell it after doing such a great job of installing it

 

Are you planning on getting the car tuned through the MM calibration service?

 

Yea hes already got an AP.

 

I have had an AP for a while, I have been playing with Tuning for a while as well but I won't be tuning this myself.

 

Ok, so let's talk wide band placement. Where? Also, who think it's a good idea to replace my MAF and stock front O2 since they both have 124,000 on them?

 

I would highly suggest getting a new front 02 sensor. Its going to be more of a PITA than it is now if you wait and do it after the turbo is on.

Mafs are cheap I'd get a new one for peace of mind.

 

Who would say no to replacing anything when you mention it has 124k miles?

 

Some think things like the MAF either work or don't, they don't slowly start giving bad readings, etc. I would feel better getting them replaced but that's another $400.00. Time to call in some hook ups.

 

Just keep a used maf on hand, no need to go and buy a new one.

The front 02 sensor start crapping out around 130-150 I believe.

 

I'm just gonna bite the bullet and put new **** on. I want to eliminate as many possible fault points as possible.

 

You want a new front O2 sensor if for no other reason that they usually seize and gall the threads upon attempted removal from the OE exhaust manifold after that much use. So not only will you likely need an O2 sensor anyway, you won't end up needing to repair the OE exhaust manifold in the process by purchasing and installing a new one with the turbo install.

 

Good point, it has been in there for seven years.

I actually broke a 1/2" craftsman ratchet trying to remove it from a Honda manifold years ago. It never came out, ended up cracking the manifold using an impact to remove it.

Any idea on what to use as anti-seize on an O2 sensor? Does it have to be special due to the heat.

 

My O2 sensor went bad and will be replacing it tomorrow. Guess I will find out how much of a PITA it is with the turbo installed.

 

Yea that happened to me, however instead of doing it the right way. I just cross threaded the new header instead of buying a new sensor.

It made sense at the time...

 

That sux.

 

I just use a regular anti-seize on my custom stainless manifold and get it reasonably tight without over doing it. Comes out easy. They don't use anything on the OE thread install and it ends up with disimilar metal corrosion and excessive tightening being the main culprit.

 

Shouldn't be any more difficult than on the OE manifold, likely less. The nice thing about the turbo manifold is that if there is a problem the back manifold extension off the turbo is likely easier to remove than the entire OE manifold since you shouldn't need to pull the engine mount/bracket etc.

 

I use regular anti-seize on mine. no problems at all. Like Team said, don't over tighten.

 

That's crazy mine came out super easy but probably because my car has been down more than I own it just seems like it..

 

Is there any certain brand of T bolt clamp that you guys prefer over the other?