from what I know it is not built in. At least I didnt see it when I was looking at mine. this is an easy super inexpensive fix though

 

Hmmm, I was reading up on Mitsubishi Turbos and supposedly the oil restrictor is built into the turbo. No restrictor comes with the kit as far as I can tell. Could this be the problem with the turbos dieing early?

I have not received a response on the oil pressure for the T618Z from Greddy but most of the turbos that I can find data on all have recommended oil pressure in the 35-45PSI range and there is a lot of talk about what excessive oil pressures do to damage the turbo.

 

I can tell ya that I know of Greddy owners that had to obtain an oil restrictor

 

Come to think of it .... I'm pretty sure mine had a restrictor at the bottom of the inlet hole . Whether it was small enough is another question . I have one fitted to the oil line as well .

Have a look down your hole ...... what do you see ?

 

I will look but if not, and people are installing as per the instructions then...............

 

.... they are doing it wrong

this is a common look for when installing. Most build threads mention this. Be sure to check for the restictor.

 

I will check when I get home. I just cannot get over the fact that this turbo is seemingly unreliable in the RX8 when it is used on many other bigger, more powerful engines (RB26 for instance) without any real issues with premature failure.

 

one guess would be high exhaust temps with no water cooling. The turbo should be reliable, the problem is that most people dont take the time to plan this turbo kit out, unfortunely its not plug and play. Now that we have a lot of logged mileage and usage with the greddy kit I am confident that we can make this kit much more reliable (recirc, proper jet air hook up, proper boost reading ie fix#2, and several other obvious changes for cooler running temps)

 

Yeah water cooling definitley helps but the skyline guys seem to use this turbo without water cooling and it is still reliable.

I recently chatted with a guy from an Aussie skyline board who has owned a few rotaries and does all kinds of rally's in extremely hot weather in his Skyline and he said the T618Z has been a reliable turbo for him up to the 400HP range but then he upgraded to a bigger HKS turbo. He suggested a turbo blanket, shielding, and the separate oiling system due to the excessive heat rotaries produce. But he said the separate oiling system adds complexity and could be bad if not designed and setup correctly.

I agree a ton of fixes have been identified and I am so glad I waited. I think many rush into it without proper prior planning.

 

a rotary engine is a rotary engine and a reciprocating engine is a reciprocating engine. All of the parameters are different. Starting with the rotary exhaust running much hotter. Get the water cooling option if you can.

 

^ True.

Well it looks like Fix #2 was done already, not sure how well though but we'll see. Anyway here is a rough layout of the kit. It appears the BOV is a Greddy Type R or a very good knock off but I have compared pics from every angle and it looks legit but it is just missing the sticker that goes on top.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5633780686/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5633197519/http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5633197999/

 

manifold ceramic coated ?

 

That blow off valve going to becoming a paper weight?

 

Yep, appears to be.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9krpmrx8/5633249381/

 

Nope, just ordered the recirc kit for it It's a bit overkill but should work fine.

 

that saves you a job . Well worth it on the manifold .... the downpipe , not so much .

 

hmmm it would look good if you powder coated the pipes black.

 

yeah it appears to have been done pretty well.


Question. Is anyone reading boost from two sources? I have the goodbox which has a boots gauge built into it, I am thinking of getting a standard 52mm boost gauge as well. Thoughts?

 

yes - me

 

Yeah I am debating that. I am also doing SARX on the intercooler

 

On from UIM and other from?

 

just put a tee in the line and feed the one supply port to two sources

 

Finally, PICS!

looks good!

I use to run it at turbo outlet and at UIM (before my boost gauge took a crap). it's often useful in testing for leaks and pressure losses.

 

Should I tee off of the Fix #2 location?

 

if that is the primary boost signal source, then yes