/\ yes - the type that ISN'T a T bolt clamp ......

 

So, what do you recommend then? Worm clamps? Everything I read recommends T bolt clamps.


What about these?

http://www.hylomarusa.com/Bentley_Ho...s/Turbo_Clamps

 

That's what I thought as well - but I was told they are prone to leak (although I've not experienced this for myself) . I think they are probably ok if the sizing is perfect .

Good quality SS screw type clamps have worked perfectly for me anyway.

 

I dont think you will ever have a problem with a good quality T-hose clamp.

I like the Bentely one you posted!

Check these ones out:

#1: http://www.hosetechniques.com/index....index&cPath=13

#2: http://www.summitracing.com/search/B.../?autoview=SKU

#3: http://www.summitracing.com/search/B.../?autoview=SKU

 

^^ I use those Comp Cams Gator Band hose clamps from Summit Racing and they not only work great, but they are an excellent value too. Properly tightened with clean mating surfaces you are not going to blow off a silicone hose anywhere in the range of turbo boost that a Renesis engine is likely to experience. With t-bolt clamps you have to be careful not to overtighten them because they will distort lightweight tube piping into an oval shape if you do.

 

wow, discussion and search for t-bolt clamps? hahah! we're seeing everything in this thread except actual work.

Just kidding man! Just teasing ya. You know you'll need to make a 2nd build thread when the actual work begins. lol

My take on clamps:

If you tighten t-bolts on a straight section of a pipe/coupler, it'll be fine. If you tighten them on a a bit of a curved section (like those with Turbo usually have to do at the throttle body) then it's more likely to leak. Nothing cranking down on the t-bolt won't solve, although be careful if you have thin piping, like vibrant aluminum pipes, very easy to bend them with T-bolts. You also need to match the specific clamp size for the pipe.

Worm/band clamps go on tight, but most of the generic ones can cut into the couplers due to the screw section being exposed. They can go on crooked but seal pretty well. They are also easier to work and work on a range of sizes. I actually use worm clamps throughout my setup except for what is seen in the engine bay.

 

Thanks guys! I will start work soon I promise, I just gotta get everything right first!

 

^Yeah definately no shortage of posts here. Ten pages before the build. I'm looking forward to seeing some action.

 

You guys think this piece will work to put the filter across the front of the crash bar? I think so but I wonder if it's too long.

http://store.max-redline.com/servlet...Pipe-90/Detail

I am thinking this made of nitril may be better.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TNT-30190/?rtype=10

 

keep it 3.5" all the way to the MAF

 

Ok, thanks. Will a 3.5" fit through the hole in the front support?

 

You will either need to use the rubber elbow through there or flatten a metal elbow slightly to fit, either way it can be done, should be a necessity for FI IMO ...

 

and this with a big filter

http://www.turbohoses.com/velocity_stack.htm


Personally I would make it 3.5" OD as far as possible to the turbo inlet ....


.

 

Awesome, that is great. Now I need to measure. Too bad I spent the weekend wrenching on my fathers XJ installing a new transfer case instead of working on this.


I need a couple of hump hoses too.

 

The stock Greddy pipe from MAF down to the turbo works just fine - although there is a poor transition at the top . It's the inlet pipe to the turbo that can be an issue if you upgrade the turbo .It's only 50mm ID

 

Yeah I will use that pipe and parts of the AEM. I am going to tray an use a WIX paper filter for a 6.0 GMC or the like if I can, I really don't want to use a K&N type unless I have too.

 

Sure, if you overlook the fact that you are sucking through a longer, smaller diameter straw than NA to make 50% more powa, you just don't know what you're missing is all ...

 

Ah, I missed this post.

 

You only missed the edit at the end ...

 

I will have to check the clearance and see how far 3.5" can go down there.

 

it definitely will not make it down to the turbo. lol probably not even able to fit between the engine and middle frame rail.

but it will fit through the intake hole in the front frame.

 

Looks like a tight fit.

 

As mentioned earlier you can't get a bigger tube down there anyway and even if you could I would argue that the difference would be negligible . There are much better things you can do to make the kit perform than replace things that work perfectly well .

Worth noting that the pipework/inter cooler on the Greddy kit is fine to 300 ish whp ,so unless you plan to significantly go above that level money spent on upgrading that part of the kit is wasted . The only bits I would touch are the turbo inlet pipe (if you have a bigger compressor wheel) and the perhaps the turbo outlet if it wasn't such a PIA to modify .

 

I know you can't get it to go all the way to the turbo, but I bet it will get closer than you're claim

The boost falls on the top end, this is well proven. The question is, how much of it is a result of starving the turbo inlet ....

 

great info.

beers