Spin9k

Thanks chicken, I've got the just arrived RB adapters still in box and was about to order those gauges not even thinking it wouldn't fit. Why can't they all just work the same...

jskup1

iTrader: (7)

take the gauge sensor and RB adapter to lowes. Get an adapter to fit the two for about $3.

sixgen3sgte

^ bingo works every time

chickenwafer

iTrader: (9)

oh snap! I have to do this!

chickenwafer

iTrader: (9)

Wow, the ProSport gauge wiring diagram really sucks. Either that or I just can't read it.....

So I have 4 wires. Black is obviously ground. White, from what I can tell is ACC, which goes to the cig lighter. The Amber (red, from what I gather?) goes to the cig light, and orange goes gets constant 12 volts? Sound right?

Just want to make sure before I start cuttin and splicing.

jskup1

iTrader: (7)

If you can scan the diagram and post it or email it to me, I'll take a look at it for ya.

chickenwafer

iTrader: (9)

it isn't even a "diagram" by the traditional sense. It's just a bunch of boxes and stuff. It doesn't even have a reference to the black and orange wire. It also flips the white and amber wires around. I'll snap a pic of them in a sec

chickenwafer

iTrader: (9)

also for the oil press sending unit- the three wires coming out of the sender are black, white and green. The three wires coming out of the harness for the sender from the gauge are black, white and red. So do I connect black-black, white-white, and green-red? Trial and error I guess.......

1stgen8

iTrader: (1)

Hey Chickenwafer read log #160 of this thread. I hope my description of the way I wired everything helps. Do you have the mechnical or electrical oil pressure guage. I thouhgt I was ordering a mechanical oil pressure guage but I got the electrical one instead. I'm glad I did cause it was very easy to wire up. If you have the electrical guage the green wire that goes to the guage harness has to run thru the fire wall out to one side of the sending unit. You will need a piece of (blk) wire and attach it to the other side of the sending unit to ground it somewhere under the hood. The instructions tell you where to attach the green wire and where to attach a (blk) ground on the sending unit. The black wire on the guage harness needs to be ground somewhere inside the car. I extended the blk wires for all the guages and grounded them using a bolt under the dash.

chickenwafer

iTrader: (9)

thanks 1stgen8

well I thought I had the electrical oil press sender (and my box says electrical w/sender) but in the pic you have a different looking sender than I. Mine is a tiny one, and yours is a big round one....looks like this:


ProSport says it's electrical? Has an electrical connector

Okay, just to make sure I have this straight

From the ProSport power harness:
Red: constant 12v
Black: Ground
White: ACC
Amber (Orange): Parking lights

Correct?

I got the sensor figured out now I think. Directions for that are a little more clear.

chickenwafer

iTrader: (9)

okay, I think i bumped my head this morning or something. I removed the top dash panel, not to diffcult save for that freakin secuirty bolt on the radio.
Cut the stock dash and glued in the Lotek pod. Easy as pie.
Installed the gauges in the pod. Easier than cake
Plugged in the harness' to the back of the gauges. Easier than cookies
Reinstalled the Lotek pod, just as easy as before.
Routing the wires. This was a little more fun. The power harness was easy- just ran it to the area behind the ashtray.
As for the sending unit wires. Holy crap, I couldn't get out of the interoir to save my life! I tried the hole up by the clutch pedal and nothing was going through. I even tried shoving a piece of rebar tie through it and notta. I then removed my windsheild washer fluid container and looked for the hole I remember hearing about behind it- only to see that my 8 apparently doesn't have one??!! Maybe I just didn't look hard enough....
OK, so I cut my looses and just ran the sending unit wires to the drivers side footwell and ziptied them up and outta the way. I labeled each so I would remember where they go.
I then installed the Racing Beat water temp adaptor (with ProSport sender, got adaptor at Home Depot). Easy enough. Just cut a stock hose and splice in the adaptor. Had to wait to install my oil temp/press adaptor- I need an oil filter wrench for the 8.
Next was the fun part I thought was going to be easy....the power harness.
black wire I grounded to the ciggeritte lighter
white wire I ran to the ciggeritte lighter power
amber (orange) wire I ran to the cigg light power
red wire I ran to the room fuse. I couldn't find another constant 12v, and by this time I was tired and I'm not even sure if the room fuse is a constant 12v but I think so
I turn it on and the gauges flicker for a breif second and never come on again. Soo pissed.

Pretty tired right now. This too a lot longer than expected! Good thing I don't have to drive my car tomorrow or I would be in trouble.

So what went wrong? Perhaps I need a different 12v constant?

Like I said, I think I took stupid pills this morning.

I'll go back in a few to try to sort it out with the multimeter........

jskup1

iTrader: (7)

Check your ground and make sure you haven't accidentally grounded another wire.

chickenwafer

iTrader: (9)

you're right jskup1! Redid the ground and everything works now!

Then my happiness was immediately spolied by buzzing and lighting gauges and a slight coolant leak via the RB adaptor. A quick recut of the hose solved and tightening down on the clamps solved that problem.

But now the gauges are acting weird. The oil press gauge works fine, and is somehow moving on it's own very randomly between the ranges of 100 and 120 psi. I don't have the sender even wired into it yet so this is weird......
and then the water and oil temp gauges are flashing constantly and I can't make them stop! I don't know how I will drive with them constantly flashing like that. Hopefuly they stop that once hooked up to a sending unit?

Oh well. Uber tired now. Ready for bed.

1stgen8

iTrader: (1)

I too installed my guages before hooking up the sending unit and temp sensor but with no problems. The oil and temp guages were just pegged all the way but no flickering....which is normal until you complete installation. Did you use the wires on the cig lighter like I mentioned in my previous post. If so check your connections....I really think there is a loose wire. What type of connectors did you use? Sometimes those crimp on connectors don't cut thru the plastic coating on the wire enough to make a good contact. I've had it happen to me in the past. Now when I use them I trim back the wire before using them.

chickenwafer

iTrader: (9)

I used the quick splicers first but nothing worked so I cut off all my quick splices and did real splices. But at that point I had been up 19 hours so I'm not to sure how well they are. It's weird that only two gauges are flashing because I have power daisy-chained from one to all three using ProSports harness.
I ran the red to the Aux Power 20 amp (orange wire)
I ran the white to the Cigg Lighter power (Yellow wire)
I ran the amber to the Cigg Light Power (Yellow w/Orange tracer)
I grounded to the Cigg light as well. Maybe I should ground somewhere else?
I just thought that if one gauge had a a problem reguarding the wiring them ALL would becuae they are linked together. Hmmmmmm

chickenwafer

iTrader: (9)

I triple-checked all my electrical connections in the power harness and eveything is good.

The oil temp and water temp gauges still flash on and off (reguardless if glowing red or white). They don't buzz or anything (thanks god!)
But they still perform their opening and closing ceromonies perfectly on cue with the oil press gauge which seems to be the only one working correctly right now.
Both temp gauges are sitting at 0 the whole time and just flash on and off. I can set the Peak warning and look at the peak (even tho there isn't one). Maybe they just have to get a signal?

A little more back on topic.....

How did you guys get into the engine bay? I tried the area near the clutch pedal behind the kick-panel fuse box where a whole mess of wire pass into the engine bay and pop out near the brake MC. That rubber grommet is tight! I tried shoving a piece of rebar tie rod through it with not luck. How they hell did you route wires through this?? Or is there another hole I don't know about and I'm looking at the wrong one?
I looked for the hole behind the windsheild washer tank I saw in the Int-X install vid. Mine apparently doesn't have one?? Maybe I just looked in the wrong spot? I pulled off the tank and pulled back the lining and there was nothing.........
So I realllllly need to a find a way to route these wires into the engine bay. Hopefully once the gauges are connected to sending units they will function.

Thanks again for all your help!


Dave

jskup1

iTrader: (7)

I routed my wires along with the wiring for my passport srx through the grommet near the clutch pedal. I used a scapal to make an additional cut, then with the wire ends attached to a long screwdriver, punched it through the rest of the way. Since I have a lot of wires going through there now, When I install my next 3 gauges, I will either go behind the washer resevoir or I will drill a hole in the firewall behind where the lotek pod is.

Mzdarx8

Wafer, i used that grommet bye the clutch. I got the bottom lip loose bye using a screwdriver to push through then routed the wires through. You are right it is a tight fit. Then i used some black silicone to seal up some of the gap it left!

You could probally go through the hood release grommet then use some silicone to seal that up.

chickenwafer

iTrader: (9)

thanks guys! I'll try it now. I was affraid to cut it mainly because I may slice a wire. Just take my time........

chickenwafer

iTrader: (9)

Ok in this on-going saga.......I really suck

I got the wire in the engine. Went ahead and hooked up the water temp wires. Now only the oil temp flashes (like I expected) but the H2O temp reads 0 all the time. GRRRRRRRR! You guys made this seem so easy!

So I have the RB water temp adaptor. How do I ground this? Tap another wire off the black sensor wire and ground that to the frame? Or touch something to the adaptor and ground that? Grrrrr this is annoying.

Please help!

1stgen8

iTrader: (1)

I would gound it using the blk wire that is attached to the sensor. Make sure the grounding point is bare metal. You can always extend the blk wire off the sensor and use one of the bolts for the stock strut bar. As far as the other guages flickering I'm not sure of the problem cause it appears you are tapping into the right wires. You may want to try hooking up one at a time until they are all working properly. If I lived close to you I would do them for you.

chickenwafer

iTrader: (9)

thanks 1stgen8. It's late and no light tonight so I will do it tomorrow. I'll make a run to AutoZone and pick up some new oil, filter wrench, and electrical connections.

I'm hoping once I have the oil temp gauge hooked it up it will stop flickering, as the water temp did.

Thanks to everyone helping me. I know I suck!

Dookie_Rx-8

Shoulda saw my face when my gauges got power, i jumped and thought something went wrong... that was before i shorted the room fuse.. ^ I thought the gauges were broken but i guess yours is the same when not connected to the sender.. As of now i have only the water temp power'd i disconnected the others b/c it was annoying to see them blink and move...Tommarrow i should have everything in .. Took me two days to find the right size oil filter (5 auto stores and 1 had 1 left) If i had the right drill,drill bits(for a new hole) connectors,tools,oil filter wrench, volt meter ( found that it was the blue w/ red stripes with the +12 NOT the red w/blue stripes that was stated here earlier).. I would of been done within a day but oh no this ended up taking me too much time at the stores..

My god i watched my todays only working gauge water temp to change from 178ish - 203ish on the freeway over a time span of 1.2 hours isnt that not good?

jskup1

iTrader: (7)

That's pretty normal

chickenwafer

iTrader: (9)

Well my water temp gauge is finallllllllllllllly working! Still waiting for an oil filter wrench so I can install the oil temp/press adaptor. Then I'll be in business!

Once again thanks to all you guys. Without you I would have eventually figured it out- 5 days later and 3 trips to the dealership to have them repaired whatever I broke

Very happy with the gauges now, besides the headache I had installing them. Looking back it actually wasn't *that* diifficult once I had all the right information. If the ProSport instructions were actually printed in America I'm sure it would have been easier! (i.e. coherent english)

Drove a short burst today. Water temp quickly went up to 140, then 150, then settled around 165ish. Got on the throttle a few times and it jumped to 175ish. Never went pass 180. And it's 86 degrees out.
What do you think I should set my peak warning to? 220? I have it at 210ish right now but that seems like it might be low, especially in Phoenix where in the summer it can reach 120 out.