Yeah - were I to do it now, I'd probably get an AP and a sohn. I'd have to do some research on it for a bit. I have a lot of questions regarding each (I generally have a lot of questions regarding everything).

 

does the mazsport fuel filter have smaller surface area or does it have a finer mesh than the OEM ?

 

You Read my Mind, I was thinking about this the other night, but just plain forget about it, is the Sohn OMP adapter still getting sold?? I would like to to it this way than having to mix oil with the fuel each fill.

 

far as I know it is, but someone PM'ed me the other day asking that very thing, and he said sohn wasn't responding to emails or something. Maybe he's on vacation.

 

btw, I think cruising and idling are the two points where the stock pcm programming wasn't injecting enough oil. So you skipped premixing when it was important with the old maps.

 

The JDM oil metering map have two points in them, where at I think it was at 2000 rpm, that the oil metering rate spikes-- high , like low in the map-- first few?? , like the spike was about the same feed rate as 5000 rpm, and it looked very strange??

 

Well I don't premix much and only on the track.

How come I can leave my car sit 2, 3 or 4 weeks at a time and never get a clogged fuel pump? I use the Yamha lube R

We still don't know if your gas station tanks have a bad sediment problem and it keeps clogging your fuel pump.

I don't recall people complaining form the MW, NE or West about clogged fuel pumps. I have only heard about the SE and FL area.

How come MM never has this problem? Slave Arm never had it either.

I wish you luck in finding the root cause.

 

My car is a 2005 but I did not drive it off the lot until April of 2006. I did not drive on most of the early flashes. Most of this oiling situation is still in a state of voodoo black magic for me. Oil is injected at X rate. Oil is burned off at Y rate. X is controlled by the ecu. Y is controlled by a ton of things including the properties of the individual oil used. Oil comes in through the intake yet is expected to make it entirely around the housing. The leading spark plug is a key spot for carbon build up. Is this due to the swept lubrication coming off the apex seal that gets dumped in there? Does the trailing plug not have this issue due to it following the leading plug? Is there a dry spot of under lubrication between plugs? If the apex seal is sweeping lubricant into the spark plug well, does this mean that the center of the apex seal is lubricated by the stock oiling system? Is there no center oil injector to avoid over oiling the center of the apex seal and excessive carbon build up at the leading spark plug? If oil can make it entirely around the housing, one would expect it to be able to migrate the couple inches from corner to center. How much oil migrates out to the end plates? Does this swept side plate oil build the exhaust port carbon deposit in the thin end of the exhaust port?

Now, if you pick an oil that is more resistant to burning, does it migrate better around the housing? And if it does that very well, do you now have an engine that is starting to build up oil deposits that will slowly bake into carbon? And if you pick an oil that burns faster, does it leave less carbon but produces a less effective protective film?

Being as stubborn as I am, I generally make my decisions off what information I can collect and piece together. I might find that I am entirely mistaken on how to oil my engine by generally trusting Mazda engineering when mostly out of boost and then supplementing the system when I will be outside of the oiling system's design parameters for a greater percentage of the time. This morning I asked myself - "Self, if mazda engineers were so genius when they made the ecu that the AP is the mother of all management solutions, how did they fail so badly with the oiling system for the same motor?"

Then again, what's more likely? I'll underlubricate my motor and slowly lose compression leading to a premature tired engine or I'll pop a vacuum tube/bork a map point/break something vital and pop the engine.

 

If you didn't drive on the early flashes then you should be fine...

We know oil was an issue, Mazda corrected it with increased output on the later flashes and increasing the engine warranty.

We know oil is still an issue, Mazda corrected this in the 2009 by adding a third injector. We really can't cost effectively fix this in the older vehicles, so premix will be our solution.

 

well said.
OD

 

Yeah, I believe Paul from Mazmart mentioned something to me once about it being a good idea to still premix even with a sohn. Said something about them determining that the nozzles aren't in an ideal location for best lubrication, or something like that.

 

anyone have the mazsport fuel pump install instructions?

 

Isn't it something like:
1) Open door
2) Remove back seat
3) Put in pump
4) Race a Corvette

 

feh. Vettes are beneath me.

 

5) Lose to Corvette.

 

^^ not always the case....

 

C5 made what? 350 hp?

 

much faster corvettes than that^ you can beat, with the right amount of air

 

ya, but I would not try going over 350 whp. It just seems like a good stopping point for power on the renesis. I'll let someone else try pushing the limits and seeing how long their engine lasts.

 

^^ totally agreed

 

you volunteering?

 

hehe no... as fun adventure as that would be, i need a daily driver. at some point the car becomes annoying to drive...

 

^ easy Jason, I have it

1. route vaccuum line underneath car
2. make sure there are no bends on the vaccuum line
3. remove fuel pump
4. put in new fuel pump
5. make sure it's clocked correctly
6. plug in vaccuum line
7. go race a corvette

 

i was looking for the instructions to make sure we can uninstall it tomorrow without any hickups. So we'll pull the pump out... but there's a brass vacuum tube that goes up to the front of the car. Anything I should anticipate?

 

Uninstall should be straight forward.

Remove seat and cover

Make sure you have less than 1/4 tank of fuel and the car is level

Make sure the fuel pressure has had a chance to dissipate....

loosen -AN connectors and remove FP regulator and hose and vac line from regulator

Remove vac line if wanted...or plug the engine end and leave it intact

Remove OEM fuel line connector

Use OEM tool or similar to remove retaining ring.

Lift up pump assembly a bit and disconnect the siphon line ( black/blue connector)
and the fuel level wiring plug

Remove pump assembly.....

Install new pump assembly....