The STX thread!
11-03-2009, 06:29 PM
#551
Sparky!
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: East Jesus (Murphy, TX)
Posts: 547
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It seems the clearance issue with the 17" RPF1s isn't between the caliper and the spokes (as I assumed), it's between the caliper and the barrel of the wheel. Here are clearance pics I promised for the +35mm 17x9 RPF1s:
You can't really see it here, but there is plenty of clearance between the caliper and the inner surface of the spokes. The tight spot is between the caliper and the barrel. That huge radial lip is what gives RPF1s very good strength for such a lightweight wheel, but the barrel is smaller in diameter than a comparable 17" wheel.
There is probably 2-3mm of clearance. I would assume the radial clearance would improve with an 18" RPF1, but I have no idea if the spoke profile changes or not.
You can't really see it here, but there is plenty of clearance between the caliper and the inner surface of the spokes. The tight spot is between the caliper and the barrel. That huge radial lip is what gives RPF1s very good strength for such a lightweight wheel, but the barrel is smaller in diameter than a comparable 17" wheel.
There is probably 2-3mm of clearance. I would assume the radial clearance would improve with an 18" RPF1, but I have no idea if the spoke profile changes or not.
11-03-2009, 07:32 PM
#554
Row faster, I hear banjos
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Charlottesville, VA
Posts: 2,217
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Btw BRODA, I thought the PF01 was a typo. I just took a closer look at the catalog and it appears that its a new design. It appears to weigh 18.0lbs in the catalog compared 18.4lbs that Enkei still lists as the weight for the RP03.
Last edited by chiketkd; 11-03-2009 at 07:35 PM.
11-03-2009, 07:37 PM
#555
^Well right now I threw my old 275 Azenis on my 18x9 +35 RE30's to use for the winter. In Feb. i'll be putting on 265 Star Specs, so I guess we will see how much work needs to be done.
Right now with the 275's on there, there is only rubbing on the rear plastic piece where the rear bumper connects. The fronts do not rub. With 265's it will be close. I'm running -2.4 degrees of camber in the front and -2.2 in the rear.
Right now with the 275's on there, there is only rubbing on the rear plastic piece where the rear bumper connects. The fronts do not rub. With 265's it will be close. I'm running -2.4 degrees of camber in the front and -2.2 in the rear.
11-03-2009, 10:51 PM
#558
Row faster, I hear banjos
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Charlottesville, VA
Posts: 2,217
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Team, Broda or anyone that's run in STU/X with an RX-8...
Has anyone replaced their front or rear control arm bushings with poly bushings? It looks like Energy Suspension has a new kit for the RX-8 available on this page:
http://www.suspension.com/mazda.htm
EDIT: Looks like the RX-8 comes with some pretty decent bushings from the factory and poly bushings would probably be a step back. Does anyone make a delrin bushing for the rear toe arm? Trying to find ways of fixing this car's low speed understeer.
Has anyone replaced their front or rear control arm bushings with poly bushings? It looks like Energy Suspension has a new kit for the RX-8 available on this page:
http://www.suspension.com/mazda.htm
EDIT: Looks like the RX-8 comes with some pretty decent bushings from the factory and poly bushings would probably be a step back. Does anyone make a delrin bushing for the rear toe arm? Trying to find ways of fixing this car's low speed understeer.
Last edited by chiketkd; 11-03-2009 at 11:02 PM.
11-04-2009, 09:44 AM
#559
Row faster, I hear banjos
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Charlottesville, VA
Posts: 2,217
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
P.S. One word of caution for anyone considering this mod (and feels these Toe Arms share a similar metal/non-metal make-up as the OE part) -- ST* only allows the replacement of one method of adjusting your alignment. If you got these toe arms, you would NOT be able to get the competition a-arms.
Last edited by chiketkd; 11-04-2009 at 09:48 AM.
11-04-2009, 09:45 AM
#560
^Well right now I threw my old 275 Azenis on my 18x9 +35 RE30's to use for the winter. In Feb. i'll be putting on 265 Star Specs, so I guess we will see how much work needs to be done.
Right now with the 275's on there, there is only rubbing on the rear plastic piece where the rear bumper connects. The fronts do not rub. With 265's it will be close. I'm running -2.4 degrees of camber in the front and -2.2 in the rear.
Right now with the 275's on there, there is only rubbing on the rear plastic piece where the rear bumper connects. The fronts do not rub. With 265's it will be close. I'm running -2.4 degrees of camber in the front and -2.2 in the rear.
What are you running for ride height in the rear?
11-04-2009, 10:17 AM
#563
Row faster, I hear banjos
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Charlottesville, VA
Posts: 2,217
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You're right. I come to the same conclusion when I read the rule...
B. Suspension bushings may be replaced with bushings of any
materials (except metal) as long as they fit in the original
location. Offset bushings may be used. In a replacement
bushing the amount of metal relative to the amount of nonmetallic
material may not be increased. This does not authorize
a change in type of bushing (for example ball and socket
replacing a cylindrical bushing), or use of a bushing with an
angled hole whose direction differs from that of the original
bushing. If the Stock bushing accommodated multi-axis motion
via compliance of the component material(s), the replacement
bushing may not be changed to accommodate such motion via a
change in bushing type, for example to a spherical bearing or
similar component involving internal moving parts. Pins or keys
may be used to prevent the rotation of alternate bushings, but
may serve no other purpose than that of retaining the bushing in
the desired position.
materials (except metal) as long as they fit in the original
location. Offset bushings may be used. In a replacement
bushing the amount of metal relative to the amount of nonmetallic
material may not be increased. This does not authorize
a change in type of bushing (for example ball and socket
replacing a cylindrical bushing), or use of a bushing with an
angled hole whose direction differs from that of the original
bushing. If the Stock bushing accommodated multi-axis motion
via compliance of the component material(s), the replacement
bushing may not be changed to accommodate such motion via a
change in bushing type, for example to a spherical bearing or
similar component involving internal moving parts. Pins or keys
may be used to prevent the rotation of alternate bushings, but
may serve no other purpose than that of retaining the bushing in
the desired position.
11-04-2009, 10:44 AM
#564
14.2.E also seems to indicate you can you cut out that plastic piece, but I think there might be metal underneath?
E. Fenders may not be cut or flared but the inside lip may be rolled
to gain additional tire clearance. Flares that are part of body kits
may be attached to the stock fenders. Plastic and rubber wheel
well splash shields may be modified for tire clearance and to
accommodate a rolled inside fender lip. The intention is to
permit fitting the maximum allowable tire size, and the
modifications may serve no other purpose (e.g. air intake, brake
ducts, etc.). No other changes to the stock fenders or wheel wells
are permitted.to gain additional tire clearance. Flares that are part of body kits
may be attached to the stock fenders. Plastic and rubber wheel
well splash shields may be modified for tire clearance and to
accommodate a rolled inside fender lip. The intention is to
permit fitting the maximum allowable tire size, and the
modifications may serve no other purpose (e.g. air intake, brake
ducts, etc.). No other changes to the stock fenders or wheel wells
11-04-2009, 10:55 AM
#565
Does anyone have pictures of all the factory rear links off the car? I'm not convinced that the toe link is the cause of the compliance toe-in under cornering as the bushings on that link are relatively small and stiff looking. On the other hand, the bushing on the upper camber link is huge and squishy looking. It makes sense too because relating toe change to camber compliance would be a better way to isolate the compliance toe change to cornering without giving undesirable toe-out under acceleration.
11-06-2009, 10:19 AM
#566
Row faster, I hear banjos
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Charlottesville, VA
Posts: 2,217
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My RB intake gets here Monday, and I ordered a 3-way adjustable rear swaybar which should get here by the middle of next week. Like the 27mm Hotchkis FSB I used in B-stock, I wanted a rear swaybar that was as close to the stock diameter as possible, and allow me fine tune the handling (through small adjustments with each setting change).
Some exhaust components will be ordered next!
11-06-2009, 12:29 PM
#567
悪魔のR
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Boston
Posts: 1,528
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've thought about going backwards to STX but I really like my current setup too much to go backwards. BTW Chiket.. sorry if I missed the post, I saw that you didn't want to get the 18x9 RPF1 due to the tire rubbing, but where/why did you think of going 265 as opposed to 255?
11-06-2009, 12:46 PM
#568
Row faster, I hear banjos
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Charlottesville, VA
Posts: 2,217
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Marc,
I think the 17/255 vs 18/265 will be a wash. I just wanted to go with an 18" wheel for the better r-comp choices down the road. At this point in time, I don't plan to be in STX for many years, and I'd eventually want to take the car to *SP or even SM.
I think the 17/255 vs 18/265 will be a wash. I just wanted to go with an 18" wheel for the better r-comp choices down the road. At this point in time, I don't plan to be in STX for many years, and I'd eventually want to take the car to *SP or even SM.
11-06-2009, 01:53 PM
#569
Registered
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 197
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just stumbled across the 2010 Enkei catalog. Looks like the PF01 will be available in an 18x9 +45. No weight listed:
http://enkei.com/Enkei_Racing_Tuning_Series_2010.pdf
http://enkei.com/Enkei_Racing_Tuning_Series_2010.pdf
18" x 8", ET 45 = 18.0 lbs with cap and valve stem installed.
Typical of Enkei, the wheel finish is excellent both front & back.
We expect production wheels to begin arriving early Spring (March/April). 18" applications will be the first to arrive.
Chris H
aka Trent@TireRack.com
11-06-2009, 08:52 PM
#571
Plus, I really like the RP03's.The price for a set really isn't too bad, either. Just make sure you plan ahead 3 months so you don't miss half the season like I did...
Last edited by BRODA; 11-06-2009 at 10:09 PM.
11-06-2009, 08:55 PM
#572
I guess good thing I'm in SM then! :D
I've thought about going backwards to STX but I really like my current setup too much to go backwards. BTW Chiket.. sorry if I missed the post, I saw that you didn't want to get the 18x9 RPF1 due to the tire rubbing, but where/why did you think of going 265 as opposed to 255?
I've thought about going backwards to STX but I really like my current setup too much to go backwards. BTW Chiket.. sorry if I missed the post, I saw that you didn't want to get the 18x9 RPF1 due to the tire rubbing, but where/why did you think of going 265 as opposed to 255?
How did your car feel with Bob's A6's? Good enough to finally order a set of your own?
11-08-2009, 03:44 AM
#573
Cone Abuser
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Redmond, WA
Posts: 2,010
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey, does anyone else have a winter series to compete in? We've got the Slush Series in Bremerton starting up in December in theory... but I can't find the dates posted yet for the events... but how do we do? Obviously the subbies crush us off the line but with some decent all-seasons how do we do in light snow or very cold rain?
11-08-2009, 08:17 AM
#574
Im glad I live in the south! No off season. It was 80* yesterday.
Had my second event in STX yesterday. Think I paxed second and about 1 sec off FTD. Kind of left befor the final results were up.
What kind of camber are people running. By the temp diff across the tire I know I need more, but kind of stuck on the stock springs right now. Progress springs dont look to be going anywhere right now. If I can sell my shocks, Im going to go with some sort of coilover.
Had my second event in STX yesterday. Think I paxed second and about 1 sec off FTD. Kind of left befor the final results were up.
What kind of camber are people running. By the temp diff across the tire I know I need more, but kind of stuck on the stock springs right now. Progress springs dont look to be going anywhere right now. If I can sell my shocks, Im going to go with some sort of coilover.
11-09-2009, 02:53 PM
#575
Row faster, I hear banjos
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Charlottesville, VA
Posts: 2,217
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
As much as I'd love to drop a couple pounds per corner and order some high-dollar forged wheels, I wouldn't count on that happening any time soon Plus, I really like the RP03's.
The price for a set really isn't too bad, either. Just make sure you plan ahead 3 months so you don't miss half the season like I did...
Plus, I really like the RP03's.The price for a set really isn't too bad, either. Just make sure you plan ahead 3 months so you don't miss half the season like I did...
I'll see what Harvey says about fitment...