It seems the clearance issue with the 17" RPF1s isn't between the caliper and the spokes (as I assumed), it's between the caliper and the barrel of the wheel. Here are clearance pics I promised for the +35mm 17x9 RPF1s:



You can't really see it here, but there is plenty of clearance between the caliper and the inner surface of the spokes. The tight spot is between the caliper and the barrel. That huge radial lip is what gives RPF1s very good strength for such a lightweight wheel, but the barrel is smaller in diameter than a comparable 17" wheel.

There is probably 2-3mm of clearance. I would assume the radial clearance would improve with an 18" RPF1, but I have no idea if the spoke profile changes or not.

 

^Which means that chike, you wont have any clearance issues with the 18x9 RPF1.

 

They also look to have a caliper-friendly spoke shape. Of course, that could vary based on size, offset, etc...

 

I wasn't worried about clearance issues with my calipers on the 18x9 +35 RPF1...but with the 265 tires and my rear fenders. From what Sipe and Broda have posted, a 265 tire will rub. I'm not sure that the amount of rolling required to fit a 265 tire on a +35 wheel would end up being legal in the Street Touring classes.

Btw BRODA, I thought the PF01 was a typo. I just took a closer look at the catalog and it appears that its a new design. It appears to weigh 18.0lbs in the catalog compared 18.4lbs that Enkei still lists as the weight for the RP03.

 

^Well right now I threw my old 275 Azenis on my 18x9 +35 RE30's to use for the winter. In Feb. i'll be putting on 265 Star Specs, so I guess we will see how much work needs to be done.

Right now with the 275's on there, there is only rubbing on the rear plastic piece where the rear bumper connects. The fronts do not rub. With 265's it will be close. I'm running -2.4 degrees of camber in the front and -2.2 in the rear.

 

Chike, where you been?
http://www.enkei.com/pf01.html

 

Under a rock apparently...

 

Team, Broda or anyone that's run in STU/X with an RX-8...

Has anyone replaced their front or rear control arm bushings with poly bushings? It looks like Energy Suspension has a new kit for the RX-8 available on this page:

http://www.suspension.com/mazda.htm

EDIT: Looks like the RX-8 comes with some pretty decent bushings from the factory and poly bushings would probably be a step back. Does anyone make a delrin bushing for the rear toe arm? Trying to find ways of fixing this car's low speed understeer.

 

Yes, you hit the nail on the head about my concern with these aftermarket toe replacement arms. FWIW, Megan Racing makes some that are very reasonably priced and retail for $210 (sell for ~$190 on Ebay).

P.S. One word of caution for anyone considering this mod (and feels these Toe Arms share a similar metal/non-metal make-up as the OE part) -- ST* only allows the replacement of one method of adjusting your alignment. If you got these toe arms, you would NOT be able to get the competition a-arms.

 

The advertised section width of the Star Specs is only 0.1 in. narrower than the Azenis (both on 9.5" rims), so clearance should be very similar.

What are you running for ride height in the rear?

 

I thought 14.8.B specifically prohibited spherical bearings?

 

^I have not measured from the center of the hub yet. But from Fender to Ground it is exactly 26" on both sides. 25.5" in the front.

 

You're right. I come to the same conclusion when I read the rule...

 

Thank you for sharing that info. The advertised diamater on the Falkens is 25.6", which would mean the distance from the ground to the center of your hub should be around ~12.8". 26 - 12.8 = 13.2". It's just an approximation, but you seem to be within a tenth of my ride height. You're also running 0.2 degrees more rear camber than I am which buys you a little extra room.

14.2.E also seems to indicate you can you cut out that plastic piece, but I think there might be metal underneath?

 

Does anyone have pictures of all the factory rear links off the car? I'm not convinced that the toe link is the cause of the compliance toe-in under cornering as the bushings on that link are relatively small and stiff looking. On the other hand, the bushing on the upper camber link is huge and squishy looking. It makes sense too because relating toe change to camber compliance would be a better way to isolate the compliance toe change to cornering without giving undesirable toe-out under acceleration.

 

Btw Broda, if you ever get the urge to "upgrade" to the PF01's, I'll be happy to take the RP03's off your hands (shoot me a pm if you're interested).

My RB intake gets here Monday, and I ordered a 3-way adjustable rear swaybar which should get here by the middle of next week. Like the 27mm Hotchkis FSB I used in B-stock, I wanted a rear swaybar that was as close to the stock diameter as possible, and allow me fine tune the handling (through small adjustments with each setting change).

Some exhaust components will be ordered next!

 

I guess good thing I'm in SM then! :D

I've thought about going backwards to STX but I really like my current setup too much to go backwards. BTW Chiket.. sorry if I missed the post, I saw that you didn't want to get the 18x9 RPF1 due to the tire rubbing, but where/why did you think of going 265 as opposed to 255?

 

Marc,

I think the 17/255 vs 18/265 will be a wash. I just wanted to go with an 18" wheel for the better r-comp choices down the road. At this point in time, I don't plan to be in STX for many years, and I'd eventually want to take the car to *SP or even SM.

 

We just received our first PF01 sample wheel and I ran it across the scale.
18" x 8", ET 45 = 18.0 lbs with cap and valve stem installed.

Typical of Enkei, the wheel finish is excellent both front & back.

We expect production wheels to begin arriving early Spring (March/April). 18" applications will be the first to arrive.

Chris H
aka Trent@TireRack.com

 

^Chris, when the production wheels come in, could you check the front caliper clearance on the 18x9 +45 PF01? Thanks!

 

As much as I'd love to drop a couple pounds per corner and order some high-dollar forged wheels, I wouldn't count on that happening any time soon Plus, I really like the RP03's.

The price for a set really isn't too bad, either. Just make sure you plan ahead 3 months so you don't miss half the season like I did...

 

Because bigger is better, Marc!

How did your car feel with Bob's A6's? Good enough to finally order a set of your own?

 

Hey, does anyone else have a winter series to compete in? We've got the Slush Series in Bremerton starting up in December in theory... but I can't find the dates posted yet for the events... but how do we do? Obviously the subbies crush us off the line but with some decent all-seasons how do we do in light snow or very cold rain?

 

Im glad I live in the south! No off season. It was 80* yesterday.
Had my second event in STX yesterday. Think I paxed second and about 1 sec off FTD. Kind of left befor the final results were up.
What kind of camber are people running. By the temp diff across the tire I know I need more, but kind of stuck on the stock springs right now. Progress springs dont look to be going anywhere right now. If I can sell my shocks, Im going to go with some sort of coilover.

 

No worries. These PF01's are actually giving me more options to consider. Depending on fitment, weight, price and availability, I may just go with a set of these for STX.

I'll see what Harvey says about fitment...