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Hey guys sorry haven't been active had to do a motor swap a few months ago with a reman. But anyways to the point I was driving to work (Tempe) (AZ) with the a.c on it was 108 degrees and about 40mins of driving the needle moved closer to the middle and then I turned off the a.c and it went back to normal temps with Windows down still driving then when I parked I let it idle before I turned it off for about 2mins no movement on temp. I was driving 6th gear around 75-80mph. Just gave me a big scare, just some advise will be appreciated.
Hey guys sorry haven't been active had to do a motor swap a few months ago with a reman. But anyways to the point I was driving to work (Tempe) (AZ) with the a.c on it was 108 degrees and about 40mins of driving the needle moved closer to the middle and then I turned off the a.c and it went back to normal temps with Windows down still driving then when I parked I let it idle before I turned it off for about 2mins no movement on temp. I was driving 6th gear around 75-80mph. Just gave me a big scare, just some advise will be appreciated.
Thanks!
You're probably fine, 110f ambient is pretty much the edge of what's doable on a stock cooling system with no humidity. The next few days are definitely going to be a struggle for your car, just don't run it too hard, make sure you're coolant is full, keep your oil topped up, and consider premixing.
To really stretch your stock system, think about running like a 10:90 Coolant:Water mix. The more water in the system the more heat it's able to effectively transfer. In this state the coolant is really just for corrosion resistance.
You're probably fine, 110f ambient is pretty much the edge of what's doable on a stock cooling system with no humidity. The next few days are definitely going to be a struggle for your car, just don't run it too hard, make sure you're coolant is full, keep your oil topped up, and consider premixing.
To really stretch your stock system, think about running like a 10:90 Coolant:Water mix. The more water in the system the more heat it's able to effectively transfer. In this state the coolant is really just for corrosion resistance.
thanks bro! Ya I drove it home after work and everything is fine. I topped off the coolant and oil was topped off as well. I did order premix a few quarts from mazdatrix idemitsu hopefully comes in a few days from now👌😊
Regardless, I am just glad to get a new ****. The old one looks pretty worn. I wear driving gloves when I drive(say what you want) , so the new **** won't get scratched up.
That's funny you mentioned driving gloves what with my fellow Arizonans' conversation above this reply.
I currently park in a parking garage when I do drive in to the office (I work from home, mostly now). But back when I had to park under the sun all day, every day, I would have loved to have some kind of driving glove to wear, since the metal part of my shifter becomes cooking-pan hot under the AZ sun, even with a sunshade in use.
As it was, I used to have a routine where I always had a terrycloth towel in the bag/backpack I carry to work, and I'd wet it with the coldest water I could find usually from water coolers or fountains, and start driving home with my shift **** wrapped in the cold towel up until my shifter cools down enough.
That's funny you mentioned driving gloves what with my fellow Arizonans' conversation above this reply.
I currently park in a parking garage when I do drive in to the office (I work from home, mostly now). But back when I had to park under the sun all day, every day, I would have loved to have some kind of driving glove to wear, since the metal part of my shifter becomes cooking-pan hot under the AZ sun, even with a sunshade in use.
As it was, I used to have a routine where I always had a terrycloth towel in the bag/backpack I carry to work, and I'd wet it with the coldest water I could find usually from water coolers or fountains, and start driving home with my shift **** wrapped in the cold towel up until my shifter cools down enough.
They are made of deerskin. Feels great when I wear them, and sometimes I keep wearing them even after getting off the car.
Whatever you do, don't buy those cheap $20 ones. I got a pair of cheap ones, and they felt awful to wear, and the dye started to come off soon after. Not pleasant. Be willing to spend the money. I'd say $60~70 will net you a pair of high-quality ones.
Anyways, when I was driving with my buddies last night, my car suddenly lost power on a dark, unlit road! I was like "Oh ****!", and they had quite a fright. I thought I blew the main fuse but turns out, the negative terminal was loose. I reattached it and was able to get home.
Looked at it today. Thought I needed shims but nope, just needed to make sure the terminals are at the bottom of the battery posts. Now they don't budge when I try to yank them.
Last edited by UnknownJinX; Jun 19, 2017 at 02:18 PM.
Removed my outer and inner door panels today. Tomorrow morning I'm getting paintless dent removal done (I tried last week but he said he needed more access for a few dings). With the door panels and windows removed he should have tons of room. When I get back I'm going to put some sound deadener in the doors before putting it back together.
Got her inspected, removed the cat and installed the racepipe back on. This time I installed the auger silencer back on to lower the noise in the cabin while my wife heals so we can go for rides this summer. About 20 db lower in the cabin, lol
Replaced the o-ring and copper gaskets on the OMP to try and stem an oil leak. Not sure it's the cause as oil is everywhere underneath, so afterwards I jacked it up in the driveway and douched the whole underside, lower half of engine, and subframe with a pressure washer. All clean and shiny now.
I'll be looking for you, Mr. Mother%&$*ing Oil Leak.
Good job on the plugs. They are a bit of a pain to get to, but not as bad as the back two plugs on some old-skool V8's. Now that you have a BHR ignition, you can rev that engine all day long to keep it healthy.
but, Pffft! You ain't seen bad plugs! (From my gallery)
On-topic: I Failed emissions again yesterday. Yay! Readiness monitors weren't set, but yesterday was the last day before they suspended my registration. Failing extends the deadline, so now I'm legal for another 30 days.
Last edited by wankelbolt; Jun 29, 2017 at 07:22 AM.
Very nice.
How is the B&B exhaust? From what i hear on youtube it's the best of the bunch soundwise.
Done any driving since the Alum. Driveshaft install?
Following up on this a couple years later...
B&B "muffler" is loud. Has a nice, raspy rotary tone. It's too loud for some people, especially with an un-resonated midpipe. Since the video below, I've added a Racing Beat dual-resonated midpipe. No video of that, but it did lower the tone and drop the volume a bit (a bit too much).
The AL driveshaft is just fine. No problems, and I run at high RPMs all the time. You mention it wouldn't be as strong as the CF one, but does that really matter with 230 HP at the eccentric?
On-topic: I Failed emissions again yesterday. Yay! Readiness monitors weren't set, but yesterday was the last day before they suspended my registration. Failing extends the deadline, so now I'm legal for another 30 days.
So, just keep failing. Embrace the fail. Become the Fail Master!
A little hard to see here, but I put on my pair of door edge guard.
Initially, I just used my hands to put them on, but then they popped out as I closed my doors a couple of times. Ended up having to buy a rubber mallet. They seem to stay on fairly well now.
I am tracking down a really small oil leak. It's either the front main seal or the front of the oil pan. I think its a small spot in the front of the oil pan. the search continues.
Ditched the trash kumho AST's that were on it when I bought it and threw on some Potenza S-04's. I'm having to re-learn how to drive now. Apparently I've been over-compensating for under-responsive tires.
Put on a new to me HKS Hi-Power and installed my AF short shifter. I now have a full 3" exhaust starting with the BHR Long-tube header. It's civil at lower RPM and not WOT, but really screams when you open it up.
The short shifter is awesome. I can't believe the difference in the throw. What I noticed most was the distance side to side between shifts. Sure the length is shorter from 1-2, but the width from 2-3 is minuscule.
Got the shifter, a rotary oil cap, and the HKS for ~350CAD so I got a smoking deal on it as well. HKS was a little dented in the ordinary places, but definitely still can't beat the price. And the short shifter was incredible, considering I can't find one for less than 280CAD
Sold my wheels and tires to buy a $450 set of stock R3 wheels and tires that popped up for sale, hit the dude up as the dude buying my wheels was on his way to buy mine and he sold them a few hours prior, so I decided to see what else I could find locally and ended up picking up a $350 set of stock Evo X enkeis which will just be used as daily wheels. Also found out my optima battery went bad from just sitting for over 2 years, so got it replaced under it's 3 year warranty and then did a few things and was able to get my car to do more stuff, still no ACC or ON mode, but after I get my wheels and tires on i'll be taking the car to the dealer to see if they can reset my IDS system and hopefully be able to start the car finally.
I do not regret going full race on the suspension. 
