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It's just one of those things that bothers me a bit. Sometimes when my car comes to a stop, the idle would dip very slightly to ~770 RPM, then rise to 820 RPM. I spray the throttle body and gave it a good wipe. Got some carbon on the shop towel I used, but it's not as bad as some of the throttle bodies I have seen online.
I then put everything back together and cranked the car. Failed the first try, and it started up on the second try. I think I sprayed a bit too much cleaner into the throttle body. Almost felt like I flooded the engine. I did make the point of putting a heavy dumb bell on the gas pedal to clean the throttle body so I don't end up ruining the expensive throttle body unit.
Idle is more steady now. No more annoying dip in the idle RPM.
3. Replaced battery with new Bosch 35-640B. I've always loved Bosch products
Bosch batteries are awesome!
I've had mine for about 5 years now, it's been run almost all the way down several times and just keeps on going. Far superior than the POS yellow tops (yes, plural) it replaced.
Everybody learns sooner or later that the red and yellow top batteries are garbage.
The lucky ones learn it from the Intarwebs. The rest of us buy one and learn the hard way.
BTW, the 35-640B is a flooded-cell battery, which if you drive with any spirit is a no-no. For $30 more you can get an AGM version (35-650BAGM) which will not vent acid vapors nor slosh acid around. On-sale for $133. That's only $20 bucks more than the smaller Deka ETX30L I run, and the Bosch is a real automotive battery with terminals and serious CCA. Worth it, IMHO, if weight is not a big concern. (37 lb vs. 22 for Deka.) https://www.pepboys.com/product/details/838876/00079
Last edited by wankelbolt; 09-01-2017 at 08:53 AM.
Went and visited my newest 8 in the body shop due to some idiot that dont know how to back up. I had to call a cooling and heating guy the other day and when he was leaving, he forgot he had mirrors or something because this happened.
The body shop has the fender cut off and told me it will be a week before they can get it in the paint booth. Now this 8 has a wreck on the title with a car that barely has 45k on it and haven't been able to drive it for the last few weeks. I was going to try to get a diminished value suit but these cars are barely worth anything anymore, even tho they are probably some of the best driving cars without spending 10s of thousands if not 100s.
I'm just glad I have a second one to fill my needs.
Had a new reman engine installed this weekend after the original crapped out at 107k. Drove out of the shop, made it about 10 miles and suddenly lost all fuel pressure. Luckily I was able to call the guys to get some roadside assistance because my insurance company didn't feel like providing a tow truck (not cool SafeCo, not cool at all). Sounded like it had no fuel, but the gauge was at 1/3 of a tank, we think its because when I had the fuel pump pipe recall done they might've not put the siphon line to the other side of the tank in properly. But its back in the shop, they are gonna try a few things, and worse case scenario just install a spare pump assembly they have. Hope to have it back Monday so I can start the break-in period to hopefully have it ready for autocross at the end of the month. Also purchased some idemitsu premix so I can take care of the nice new engine
Pulled the 8 out of the garage for the first time in a while and finally got to really see the new (to the car) Stock Evo X enkeis on it for the first time from a distance and absolutely love them then I towed the car to storage where it will stay for a few months.
So it looks like my rx8 needs a new engine replacement. Compression loss and has been overheating. Coolant pressre went up and most likely the seals are gone. I live in the SoCal area but I read about Lucky 7 Racing and I might give them a call, see what they can do. Most shops in my area have been quoting me used motors and labor for about $6k total. One quoted me a remanufactured engine with labor for about the same. I might call Lucky 7 and then consider my options. This car is just so amazing to have. Previous owner had left the car a mess but I have been putting my work into it and making it the car I want.
Rotated the tires, removed the auger style muffler insert, and drove around for a bit, getting the last few drives out of the way as I see an early winter coming... and is only September.
The body shop has the fender cut off and told me it will be a week before they can get it in the paint booth. Now this 8 has a wreck on the title with a car that barely has 45k on it and haven't been able to drive it for the last few weeks. I was going to try to get a diminished value suit but these cars are barely worth anything anymore, even tho they areprobably some of the best driving cars without spending 10s of thousands if not 100s.
I'm just glad I have a second one to fill my needs.
After seing your pics, a good body shop can make that fender flare and scratches look like new
I would replace what is replaceable with bolts Door lock, doors and front bumper
But cutting body panels , unless talking a real A+ welder and shop , I would rather get the rear fender flare repaired instead, other than cutting and welding a new panel
Seen cars eaten away by rust that got invited into the car by terrible welds
If you are dealing with a top shop that can handle such job then do it
I would reserve a panel transplant for real beat up panels that happen as a result of a collision
A shody shop can do more damage and intrusion into your car by transplanting that panel (due to bad care during and after procedure) than what it went through in this accident
Cooked it up to a full four notches to the right while talking to someone in the car. idling with the AC on.
Turned the AC off, went to full heater, and it immediately dropped itself to sane levels. Didn't shutdown the engine to avoid a heat-soak boilover, or a shock cool - just drove off at a steady pace.
Got it home to check a hypothesis. Turned the AC on and the added heat load causes it to steadily climb again, against the running fan. Cut it off and it ticks from 93 to 97 happily.
Thinking either a bad fan or potentially a sticking stat - it hovers around 82 on the motorway, even on warm days. It's done it before, but it seems to be very intermittent, along with a few other CANbus problems I'm having - are the fans on the CANbus?
Cars and Coffer ended unfortunately for another local 8, which got hedged.
Had a new reman engine installed this weekend after the original crapped out at 107k. Drove out of the shop, made it about 10 miles and suddenly lost all fuel pressure. Luckily I was able to call the guys to get some roadside assistance because my insurance company didn't feel like providing a tow truck (not cool SafeCo, not cool at all). Sounded like it had no fuel, but the gauge was at 1/3 of a tank, we think its because when I had the fuel pump pipe recall done they might've not put the siphon line to the other side of the tank in properly. But its back in the shop, they are gonna try a few things, and worse case scenario just install a spare pump assembly they have. Hope to have it back Monday so I can start the break-in period to hopefully have it ready for autocross at the end of the month. Also purchased some idemitsu premix so I can take care of the nice new engine
Cooked it up to a full four notches to the right while talking to someone in the car. idling with the AC on.
Turned the AC off, went to full heater, and it immediately dropped itself to sane levels. Didn't shutdown the engine to avoid a heat-soak boilover, or a shock cool - just drove off at a steady pace.
Got it home to check a hypothesis. Turned the AC on and the added heat load causes it to steadily climb again, against the running fan. Cut it off and it ticks from 93 to 97 happily.
Thinking either a bad fan or potentially a sticking stat - it hovers around 82 on the motorway, even on warm days. It's done it before, but it seems to be very intermittent, along with a few other CANbus problems I'm having - are the fans on the CANbus?
Cars and Coffer ended unfortunately for another local 8, which got hedged.
Thanks man! I was just on the promazda website. Shipping is $125 to my area! Better than other sites! I was confused when the total came out to $7k+ lol. I guess clicking on your link made my page add two engines. Not sure how to get that core charge fee refunded.
Loaded it up on a flat bed on the side of the road. Fuel pump gave out, so currently sitting at Mazda in the middle of nowhere to get a new one. I would do it myself but it died about 3 hours from where I live so the towing fee would be more than the stealership fees
Loaded it up on a flat bed on the side of the road. Fuel pump gave out, so currently sitting at Mazda in the middle of nowhere to get a new one. I would do it myself but it died about 3 hours from where I live so the towing fee would be more than the stealership fees
I got a replalcement fuel pump through amazon. Same quality as the oem and got my local mechanic to do it for $125. I think the pump was $130 not sure
Thanks man! I was just on the promazda website. Shipping is $125 to my area! Better than other sites! I was confused when the total came out to $7k+ lol. I guess clicking on your link made my page add two engines. Not sure how to get that core charge fee refunded.
Mr. Pockets just got a reman from ProMazda this year. You can ask him what the process is for core return.
08-30-2017, 10:05 PM
then I towed the car to storage where it will stay for a few months. 
