Got my stock Evo X enkeis on finally. The wheels I had before were just some cheap shitty ebay wheels that I traded an iPad for a few years ago. Sold them with brand new tires for $500 and was going to buy a cheap set of R3 wheels that popped up for $450, but then they ended up selling under me as the dude buying my wheels was almost at my house, but the wheels needed to go because I honestly hated them. So I went on a local classified site and found these evo X wheels for $350 for the set, one had a bend on the outer rim and cost $107 and tires were about $250, So overall i'd say everything turned out great seeing as it cost me a grand total of just over $200 going from cheap staggered set of shitty heavy *** ebay wheels to a square set of much lighter OEM Enkeis

Wheels specs: 18x8.5 +38 no spacers

*Special mitsubishi lug nuts were required and these are what I went with (they were $16 when I ordered them, but looks like price went up a bit): 20 Black Mag Style Lug Nuts 12x1.5 for Mitsubishi Lancer EVO OEM FACTORY Wheels | eBay

 

So what's up guys today I decided to take the 8 to get emissions done and my car is pretty much stock except for a cai and wheels, Apr wing and a cat back exhaust never touched the o2 sensors or cat really. Also I drove the car around 840 miles prior to taking it for emissions was wondering what is the drove cycle for the car??? And if anyone has any tips? Much appreciated!
​​​​​​​Thanks!

 

@italia916,

Those look real nice, and with 38 ET center you are already approx 1 inch wider tract not to mention another half inch for wider wheels.

Tires should be approx 245/40r18, and whole thing weight approx 45#.

I've got Enkei GF-1 one's with 15 spokes, but they were bought ( not me) in 7.5 x18 so I run Michelin PSS 215/40r18 and they have all the traction i need at 42#.

 

I had the same issue when I got my rx8 a couple months back. Replaced the pump. The nipple on the pump was cracked and leaking gasoline. Smelled so bad!! Glad it's fixed now!

 

Well, took pictures of the 8. Getting ready to part her out.

 

how come??

 

lol bet they were all jaws open wide

 

Got a p0455. Replaced the gas cap. Check engine light hasnt shown up. Hopefully that works. Also, car struggles a bit to start. Just replaced plugs and wires. Could it be the coils? Or starter?

 

Driving down the motorway at night, in a fit of boredom, I dropped it to third and blasted past an innocent motorist, tapping the throttle on the overrun to shoot a massive ball of flame out the exhausts...

And was rewarded by the sight in my mirrors of said innocent motorist jamming the brakes on so hard their Toyota swapped ends before coming to a halt in the hard shoulder.

Woops.

 

Fixed up the MAF screw holes with a bit of JB Weld, and replaced the foam tape on the inlet of the stock intake. Car idles smoother now. Yay!

Also, I tried to seal up the right tail light with a bit of RTV silicone seal. Hopefully, it won't become a fishbowl in the BC rainter.

 

JB Weld is awesome - just cold welded a 1/4 hp submersible pump and it's been running for 2 days.

 

Dissected and painted my alternator and re-installed it. I'd be lying though if I said I got it all put back together correctly the first time. Accidentally put the front cover on 180° backwards and the pivot bolt wouldn't fit. Figured this was because of the paint and proceeded to drill the hole out. Then the bolt wouldn't line up with the nut flange. That's about the time I realized my mistake. I tell you what, taking apart an alternator isn't the easiest thing. But it all worked out, and the voltage is showing a solid 14.0v.

 

Powder coated mine Gloss Black.
As you say, the coating made the fit tight, had to wire brush off where the stator contacts.

Yours looks good in blue....

 

How does your powder coat hold up against dings and scratches? I know the high heat paint and clear coat I used liked to dent and flake really easily.

 

Yes, you can see around the bolt heads, it will flake when stressed.

...and it's only aluminum underneath, so it's delicate, but an alternator doesn't see much handling.

 

That looks beautiful! how tough was the disassembly to do this?

 

Finished installing clutch slave cylinder after engine rebuild and install to discover master cylinder problems...

 

The disassembly isn't too difficult to figure out. The hardest part for me was pulling off the front cover. You remove the 4 (8mm if memory serves) outer bolts, and then the front cover can be pried off. I used a small flat head screw driver and then used a bigger one as the gap increased. Just go around prying the 4 bolt locations evenly until the shaft comes out of the back. When putting it back together, you'll need a thin wire to put in the small hole in the back and keep the receiver pad things lifted up so the shaft can go back in. It takes a little while to figure it all out, but you'll quickly realize there really isn't a whole lot to it. Just a few bolts and screws, and a press fit shaft/front cover.

 

Might have just sucked air into it, which is a pain to get out. Bleed it with aggressive pedal-stomping. May have to bench-bleed it. If that doesn't work it's tedious but not hard to replace. Good opportunity to reinforce the clutch pedal while you're at it.

 

Reinforce? where does it commonly deflect/deform
I did not realize this was an issue

 

I cried look at her this morning because she needs a new motor and i cant drive her...

 

Spot welds break/tear. You can weld it/get it welded yourself, buy a reinforced pedal from Black Halo Racing, or add reinforcing braces like the one from Race Roots. I did the last and it's been fine. Detailed thread on it here:
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...al-fix-170387/

 

I cleaned my sticking brake caliper then went for drive. Brake disc isn't red hot now so i think i might of sorted it. And i found my locking wheel nut key, was in with the car jack :-)

 

^ Ah right where it's supposed to be

 

Im quite new the RX8 scene haha