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Well, the other day I went to wash and detail my 2005 Sunlight Silver RX8 and ended up buying her a 2004 red headed step-sister that only has 48k miles on her. She has decent compression numbers (7.8, 7.7, 7.8 @250rpm on Rotor 1 and 7.4, 7.6, 7.5 @ 250rpm on Rotor 2) She didn't come with the wheels, I had them in the shed for my daily driver Silver 8 for summer but they look good on this one.
Not a big fan of red cars but it was priced to sell at $5k and I couldn't resist.
Blew a fuse upon start-up this morning, causing me to be late... Oh well, I guess that's what I get for using 100A fuses with my trunk-relocated battery that has 800 CCA. That's also what I get for thinking my sport-oriented RX8 would be decent at daily driving. Just a few more dd days hopefully...
Nice, I'm gonna need brakes all around soon and have been eyeing those.
I've put a couple hundred miles on them and they feel great. Granted, my old rotors were warped to ****. For the price I'd definitely recommend them though.
At 222,930 miles. Replaced my Mishimoto Radiator and now it's back to stock(one of the fin broke and caused a leak), coolant flushed, replaced the front brake pads, installed new rear struts(fronts will be done this weekend), oil changed, new spark plugs and ignition coils. Now, I have to clean the EPS connections and check engine light is showing P0506. Gonna have to drive it a few more times to see if the ECU relearn the trims, two more monitors are still inactive. I haven't disconnected the battery is years and I've completely forgotten about this 'chasing the RPM".
Changing to Koyorad, turns out the coil sockets broke and easily comes off and on, gotta change that too, leaking at the oil pan, cleaned SSV, little bit of rust here and there, gonna just spray it with black pilox, might change transmission oil too. lots of work. might take up to 2 days. getting my BHR coils by wed morning. might as well change that too.
Gonna move my battery to the trunk for more ventilation and gonna set up a oil catch can/tank and use 1 inch distilled water as a filter, sounds good or bad?
Tonight is LRB Speed aluminum undertray and lots of foam and aluminum tape to seal up the radiator shroud tight.
All that mothertrucking air is going through that radiator bling!
Sounds exactly like how my night is going. LRB undertray and uprights. 4 different kinds of foam weatherstripping, epoxy, and a shitload of duct tape. I really wish I just did this when I had it on a lift to do the radiator.
Summer hit and my temps started going completely insane. What used to be 185 in light traffic has turned into 220-235 (if I leave the AC on). The previous owner must have driven with the plastic undertray sagging and dragging on the ground. because it's completely stretched out and the rear fastener holes are ground off. Hoping this will take care of it.
In the evening past, I attempted the aux cable install on the 16 pin connector. lost the radio screen when putting it back in. the face plate nuts had broken free of their plastic holds. Only remedy to repair that with out jb weld was to drill straight thru the face plate plastic in all 4 corners and zip tie her down. Red screen is much brighter lettering is much bolder so it worked out. Well almost my cd player reads cd in and I was able to pull 4 of the 6 disc out with same results and from what I understand I need to be playing an empty noise cd on loop for aux to work...
Ripped the nav housing back out of my car to epoxy the liliput in place and affix everything in a bit more secure of a manner.
Rewrote the code on my microcontroller to (hopefully) allow any generic analog input to be connected to the CAN simply by changing a config file to define the CAN PID to output on, width of the variable, and a small expression to convert the analog input to raw sensor values. Started moving everything over to a perf board. Found a nice 5v regulator to use rather than a phone charger.
Made two 10' long pigtails for both oil and fuel pressure sensors. Going to try shoving them through the drivers side grommet tomorrow.
Eventually I'm hoping this giant pile of crap will turn into a completely seamless digital gauge system (among other things). The goal is to have no mechanical gauges at all while buying relatively cheap off the shelf sensors. (Which cost about 1/5th of as much as something provided by AEM for example)
I put on a new Spirit R **** with red stitchings + a shift boot with red stitchings. Much better than the original, worn **** and the black boot.
I(well, actually Kal Tires did; I can't put the tires on wheels or balance the wheels myself) put on some new tires(Falken F453) and the stock S2 wheels. Feels nice and grippy so far, much better than the no-season trash I had.
Also put a Wheelskins steering wheel cover on the steering wheel. They make some awesome covers with genuine leather, and I highly recommend them.
Serious question: What makes that a "Spirit R" shift-****?
It looks just like my R3 ****, red-stitching and all.
I genuinely don't know the distinction, which is why I'm asking.
That's what the eBay seller said. I do know it's a genuine Mazda product and it's from Japan, but whether or not it's specifically for Spirit R, I am not 100% sure. Thanks for the heads up.
Regardless, I am just glad to get a new ****. The old one looks pretty worn. I wear driving gloves when I drive(say what you want) , so the new **** won't get scratched up.
