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Also would the car being up on a lift trigger the security and stop it from starting or turning over
Long shot, but worth a try, disconnect the battery and depress the brake pedal a bunch of times (the goal here is to drain any residual power in the system.) Reconnect the battery, and then give it another shot. I've had this happen to me twice, and that has fixed it. If none of the electrical components in the car were switched, there shouldn't be any reason as to why you are getting that immobilizer warning.
Long shot, but worth a try, disconnect the battery and depress the brake pedal a bunch of times (the goal here is to drain any residual power in the system.) Reconnect the battery, and then give it another shot. I've had this happen to me twice, and that has fixed it. If none of the electrical components in the car were switched, there shouldn't be any reason as to why you are getting that immobilizer warning.
Just tried it and nothing changed. Next stop is the dealer.
When I was taking things apart to get to the grounds on top of the engine I notice the tiny black cube with one wire going to it and the wire has broke off. My questions is what is the tiny black cube? It's with the main harness that is right on top of engine and the cube bolts down to the engine.
When I was taking things apart to get to the grounds on top of the engine I notice the tiny black cube with one wire going to it and the wire has broke off. My questions is what is the tiny black cube? It's with the main harness that is right on top of engine and the cube bolts down to the engine.
Now just to get it to start the first time . It's always hard I guess
Push start it.
Then slowly drive / modulate the accelerator (rpms) to keep it running until it will idle. Expect considerable white smoke from assembly lube, ...which is normal. WATCH temps... and as soon as you can check for coolant and oil leaks.
Then slowly drive / modulate the accelerator (rpms) to keep it running until it will idle. Expect considerable white smoke from assembly lube, ...which is normal. WATCH temps... and as soon as you can check for coolant and oil leaks.
I had to push it last time as well but this time I have a bad master clutch cylinder so I have to change that before proceeding. The main thing is it's rolling over and it's so close to staring. Just needs a bigger kick like you said I gotta bump it
Meanwhile, if you're interested...check out my build thread for first start-up issues & resolutions of my turbo 8...after my first time doing an engine rebuild... earlier this year. (Below link, beginning at post #170). Of course, you may encounter the same...or different issues..., but the process w/b the same...: one issue... one resolution at a time.
The Forum's "SMEs" subject to your discretion..., and "Advanced Search" are your friend.
Meanwhile, if you're interested...check out my build thread for first start-up issues & resolutions of my turbo 8...after my first time doing an engine rebuild... earlier this year. (Below link, beginning at post #170). Of course, you may encounter the same...or different issues..., but the process w/b the same...: one issue... one resolution at a time.
The Forum's "SMEs" subject to your discretion..., and "Advanced Search" are your friend.
Thank you for this I I read all upto the boost and all the numbers for tuning. Haha I'm not into that stuff yet. But I does look like it's best to push start an 8 with a fresh engine.
Both my crappy OJ Imports rebuild, reassembled crappy OJ Imports rebuild, and Mazda reman fired up after a slightly longer than usual crank.
This was after priming the oil system by manually running the starter (filter off, run wire from B+ to spade connector on starter, stop when oil starts flowing out of the filter pedestal) and priming the fuel system (key off, key on for a few seconds, repeat several times).
Both my crappy OJ Imports rebuild, reassembled crappy OJ Imports rebuild, and Mazda reman fired up after a slightly longer than usual crank.
This was after priming the oil system by manually running the starter (filter off, run wire from B+ to spade connector on starter, stop when oil starts flowing out of the filter pedestal) and priming the fuel system (key off, key on for a few seconds, repeat several times).
Maybe I just got lucky.
I did the priming. Of both systems as well but I took fuel pump fuse out and oil filter off and cranked a lil until the wife saw oil. The put filter back and fuse back and primed the fuel. Only thing that may be weak is the new starter I ordered on Amazon. Maybe it's not really as fast. I'm gonna try my old starter. It still works just wanted a new one.
Missed out on a 04 parts car for 200$. It's rotten but I would have gotten the wire harnesses, lights, fuse box, stereo and best of all an engine to tinker with. 😡
I pulled the 8 with my truck and it started almost right away. But when it was running it would not idle which is norm for a fresh build I get it. But shouldn't the car be able to move on it's own power? Could this be the throttle body. Or TPS? which is in the throttle body. Or o2 sensor. It is from Amazon. I'm gonna swap some parts tomorrow morning and see what happens.
Ok got it running and it's good at first until the closed loop starts. My codes? Well o2 censor 1 bank 1. 😁 Gonna try to get the one off the junk car and try it.but can't get at it till tomorrow afternoon. Also happy Father's Day to all the dads out there
06-08-2019, 01:50 PM
