Red line envy

Wife bought me a fuel pressure tester kit. So while I wait for o2 sensors I'm gonna check that and maybe dig in and put the new ignition condenser on.

Red line envy

Stupid rain. I wish I had a garage.

Red line envy

Update fuel pressure is good.

Red line envy

some data holding rpm around 3400-3500. Everything look ok to the pros out there. Thanks in advance.

Red line envy

I did alot of readng last night (and I mean alot). And I found that alot of limp mode problems were linked to the omp. Now originally I passed this off because when I removed the omp originally I knew it was fragile and I treated it as such so I didn't think it be the problem. Well I decided today to swap the ion out for the one of the parts car and no more limp mode. I had full power and was able to move the car around the yard with no hesitation or studders. However it still won't idle. So car has to learn or the new engine has to break in o er a few drive cycles. 😁 Yay progress.

Ricky SE3P

iTrader: (10)

Car wont hold idle? Vacuum leak possibly? And did you ensure you reconnected your ignition coils to the correct plug on the harness? Spark plug wires going to the correct spark plugs? Fuel injector wiring also correct?

Red line envy

.
ya I've checked twice and everything is hooked up properly. Don't hear any vac leaks and nothing standing out in the readings (to me). All I have to go on is its a rebuilt engine so it might take a few drive cycles to get idle back. I'm gonna get it going again and go for a little drive now that I know there are no leaks and lvls are good.

As the car sits right now there is
New parts
Plugs
Coils
Wires
Maf
Ess
Clutch
Clutch Master and slave cylinder

Used parts
Throttle body(old one is prob fine though)
Omp (the problem all along)

Red line envy

What would cause the OL fault. And fuel trims to never leave 0.0.
any advice appreciated

Ricky SE3P

iTrader: (10)

You might not have the correct front O2 sensor, or you have a break in the wires in the wiring harness.


Also do a compression test already. You've been told over and over to do one and have not done so. That could answer a lot of questions.

And finally, take a video of the car running (or you making it run) and post it up. Probably a good idea to premix the fuel since your OMP might not be working right. Heck for all you know, forcing the engine to run as many times as you did with a faulty OMP that might not have been injecting any oil at all could've destroyed your seals. Not to mention all the other components contributing to the problems.

Ricky SE3P

iTrader: (10)

Also, anyone else notice the glaring f**king problem in this picture??? Why tf is your jet air not connected? Ever think that maybe the component that allows the car to idle happily might be, I dunno, critical to have connected?

Alternatively if that IS the jet air that is connected and not the blocked one, that means your vacuum line to the OMP system isn't connected which again, totally FUBARS your cars ability to run correctly. That stuff is connected for a reason.

Red line envy

Didn't see a need for a compression test last summer because There was a broken oil control ring that was dumping oil. So in Sept I pulled the engine and brought it back to the builder and he tore it down and he seen the damage from the broken seal. (Side iron). He bought a running engine and rebuilt it. Now here we are but this time the engine wasn't the problem. During the removal/install of engine I'm guessing the omp was bumped or smashed or pinched. When I replaced it it solved the drivability problem. Now the car will start when pushed and drive very nice and smooth with lots of pull. The problem is when I let go of throttle it just stalls and stft/ltft don't change. And the OL fault.

Also yes I did realize the the air was un hooked after the pic was takin. Lol give me some credit.

See the damage .that's from last summer and a diff engine .

Ricky SE3P

iTrader: (10)

Just because a motor was "rebuilt/fixed" doesn't automatically reset compression.

Hell, the early days of the Mazda reman engines had such awful reputations because despite the motors having been rebuilt at a plant by technicians certified to rebuild 13b-Renesis engines, they were still garbage and many either barely made it a few thousand miles or even left the service bay before failing. Heck, in 2012 I had a Mazda reman installed in a Rx8 I owned at the time and the reman was defective and the dealer had to order a replacement (severe oil leak between plates).

Point is, don't assume. Test/verify, and then work off that data.

Red line envy

Oh ya and I just got a replacement o2 and I'm gonna swap that tomorrow. Hopefully no rain.

Red line envy

And the omp is not hooked up just plugged in (limp mode if it's not plugged in) so no need for the third vac line from the intake.

Red line envy

I agree with you but with the evidence of somthing wrong I'm going after that. If I still have a problem with no codes and nothing to go on then I'll do a compression test. Until then it's.
O2 b1s1
I've just been waiting for the sensor and in that time I realized I. Having limp mode problems and swapped omp and now I can move the car around. Where as with the old omp from last year I couldn't even move the car on flat ground. It just wanted to shut down.

Red line envy

Update. I got the o2 sensor on and the code is gone. (so far). I changed the primary injectors today and I still can't start with key (only push start and it starts quick). Smooth running lots of pull, power and it's smooth and sounds good. If I slowly release throttle I can get it down to about 1000 rpm then it just dies without a chance to save it. And I'm still in OL fault. Dunno what could cause that. Maybe driving it more with fix it since everything is reset.

Red line envy

I went over everything while I was changing injectors. Checked wires and connections and all looks good and in the right place.

Ricky SE3P

iTrader: (10)

So whats up with the OMP lines and nozzles since you are saying its not connected? If you dont have the OMP system hooked up to the engine, you need to have everything blocked off and plugged. Also, why arent you using the OMP system???????

Red line envy

I'm not using the omp system because of alot of recommendations and alot of reading. The builder that did my my engine does have experience and he has been driving his 8 for quite a while now without the omp (purely premix). He recommends 12-13 oz 2stroke to each tank. When he built my engine he blocked and sealed everything for the omp and made a 1/2 inch plate to block the omp oil supply.
I just feel like I may have to drive it and keep it running longer to build good compression (I know I haven't done a comp test yet). But the longest I've kept it running so far is about 5 mins. I've read that it can and prob will take 35-45 mins to start wearing apex seals into the reused housings. That being said I have a question. At what temp does closed loop start? Or is it even the temp that triggers it?

And thank you for your help 😁

Edwin Clairmonte

Ghost8

Is it not a concern that your starter alone can’t generate enough compression to start the engine? I would start with a compression test.

jcbrx8

Red Line,

Two questions:
1. Man, you just paid an engine builder - I presume whom you trust - to rebuild your engine, right? Have you talked w/ him about:
- ...these various issues?
- getting & keeping the engine started?
- best practice for break-in?

The "wisdom" of the forum not withstanding...He should best be able to assist you, no?

2. If you know it can take "on the order of hours" for compression to sufficiently build to sustain good idle, and starter starting..., you have read other rebuild threads, right? Then why haven't you push started it and either:
- held or leveraged throttle to keep it running for an hour or more?
- went for a hr+ long drive w/ a buddy (in case it dies and needs a push start)?

jcbrx8

Ghost8, Obviously nothing wrong w/ a compression test, but may not need to spend that $$. Initially after a rebuild the starter may / or may not be able to generate enough compression to start her. After a rebuild it may take "running" time to "seat" the seals, etc. to establish sufficient compression to start via starter. After completing my virgin rebuild, albeit w/ used rotors & plates, a few months back... it took <250 break-in miles before she'd start via starter. Luckily, my driveway has just enough slope...If my sons weren't around...I'd run / push, & jump in to start her every time for the first week or so. Just have to make sure she didn't die at a stop sign or light.

In my experience...you just have to get her running..., confirm all fluids & temps are good..., and follow a "thoughtful" break-in process...; before you'll know what you've got.

Ghost8

Just get a $30 compression tester and check? At least then you can rule out a very plausible potential problem that you’re not going to be able to fix when the engine is in the car.

jcbrx8

Sure, $30 is a fair cost... after the time and expense of a rebuild...or you could simply rotate the engine to loosely "check" compression. Six solid "chugs" in three revolutions. ;-)


But OP's engine is in the car, right?