When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Envy: Do you have the oil injection holes plugged with either bolts with the gaskets or a injection hole plug? that could be a major vacuum leak causing serious issues if you don't have it correctly blocked off.
I'm thinking there is something wrong with your engine again since your builder is still unnamed and seeming to not be involved in helping get your car running. A good, reputable builder wouldn't do that (unless you are refusing help from the builder and the issues are a result of your own installation errors)
While recommending premix is a good thing, completely disconnecting the OMP system with no other good reason to justify it is a very poor choice.
Who is this mystery "experienced" builder? Also original post is 3/13/2018, which is a VERY long time ago. This 8 should've been enjoying the open road long ago, follow our instruction and you'll finish this thread soon with your 8 on the road rather than finishing with a part out.
Can you differentiate between 60 & 90 psi by turning the engine over and checking for puffs? Because that’s the difference between ok (not great, but probably runs) and needs a rebuild. If you fail a compression test with actual #s, the solution is simple: take it back to the rebuilder.
Can you differentiate between 60 & 90 psi by turning the engine over and checking for puffs? Because that’s the difference between ok (not great, but probably runs) and needs a rebuild. If you fail a compression test with actual #s, the solution is simple: take it back to the rebuilder.
I've conceded the point above - "Sure, $30 is a fair cost... after the time and expense of a rebuild...".
Update. The new o2 sensor showed up today (other one was a used one I got for nothing so it was worth a try). Put it on and wham I got fuel trims being learned and closed loop access lol ( showing in the obd). Car sounds good and healthy. And to the questions above
Yes I talked to the builder throughout these problems.
Yes he is reputable but also has I life and does help me out as much as he can.
James at -Saint John engine builders- did the rebuild and I removed and installed engine with pics and lots of labeling.
If someone wants to try something different.
Clear ecu of all fuel trims ( 20 brake stomp and the other one with the trip button can't think of what it's called KAM and the NRAM I think) unplug front o2 sensor and try to start car. Let me know what happens.
The problem was the car had no way of learning fuel trims. Due to the batt being removed the resetting of everything and the front o2 sensor being fouled from the botched build last year. So once closed loop was supposed to take over (front o2 very important for this) it would stumble and stall not knowing how much fuel to throw in.
And this is a completly different engine then I originally took out if the car. If you can read all the way through. There was a problem the first time and they came good for it located a good running Renny and rebuilt that one for me. All problems are solved as of right now so the wait is on for something to happen. Thanks to all who helped out. RESPECT.
I did some arm twisting and being a jerk, but as dumb as it sounds I felt the need to pry in that way to get some answers. Sometimes that works for me when I get that approach from others, it prompts me to double check things once more.
Glad to hear its starting to run and hold idle, let us know how its doing after some road-use.
Have about 340 km on it now and only one pending code for neutral switch So I have a surging idle and stalls when I start to push clutch in. (not enough to disengage clutch) but enough to release the plunger on the little switch on top of the clutch petal.
So I'm up to about 500km now and took it to dealer for recalls. I get the car back and an engine code for ess. Which I just replaced so I cut the wires back and seen this bare wire in there. Where is this supposed to go or does it stay there.
Ok I solved that there are some other wires elsewhere that are the same. Now if my wife and my daughter (age 13) push the car maybe 20 ft flat ground (speed maybe 1 or 2 km an hour if that) and I let the clutch out it starts right up and idles fine hot or cold. I don't have to touch the throttle to get it to start either. Drives great but won't start with key. I mentioned its my wife and daughter pushing to clarify I'm not moving fast at all or going down hill. It's flat ground and it's dirt.
Ps. I replaced the neutral switch and that fixed the previous problem. There were no codes during the 500km before the dealer got ahold of it.
What rpm does it crank at (I’m assuming you have a crank no start condition)? Your ess code is cleared and fixed? I’m assuming you checked for spark?
the push start only condition only really makes sense if either:
1. The starter isn’t cranking fast enough
2. The engine isn’t cranking fast enough for a failing crank position sensor
3. You have a compression issue and the engine needs to spin faster than the starter will allow to maintain pressure enough to sustain combustion.
What rpm does it crank at (I’m assuming you have a crank no start condition)? Your ess code is cleared and fixed? I’m assuming you checked for spark?
the push start only condition only really makes sense if either:
1. The starter isn’t cranking fast enough
2. The engine isn’t cranking fast enough for a failing crank position sensor
3. You have a compression issue and the engine needs to spin faster than the starter will allow to maintain pressure enough to sustain combustion.
The rpm gauge bumps up to about 200 rpm for a sec then just sits at 0 and the engine light reads p0336 for ess. So I assume the starter. As for compression I don't think it would start this easy on a push when hot. And only a small slow push on flat ground remember. Even after a long hard drive (idleing and driveing very well) It will fire right up when pushed a little bit.
In my experience a failing starter will usually just not spin at all. On the other, 200 RPM seems low and I think I’ve seen some threads with owners who have had a P0336 w/ a no start that have apparently had issues with either battery or starter. So maybe try a starter?
07-08-2019, 04:34 PM
