So I just got the renny rebuilt and I’m curious if there is one or more things I should do before starting it. Or do I just hop in and try to start it? I’m sure there are different things that different people do or don’t do.

 

Don't run synthetic, give it a few kicks with the key to get the oil pump primed before you start it for real, make sure you're in a place where you can let it run for a while without suffocating yourself, and check for leaks as it warms up. That's all I got, its not renesis-specific.

 

What Loki said...

You'll want to prime the oil system:
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...6/#post4743246

After you do that, clear the ESS profile (door open, key to "ON" but engine off, stomp on the brake 20 times in 8 seconds, oil pressure needle should sweep up to half).

It may run rough for a little while. Go ahead and let it warm up at idle while I watch it for oil and water leaks. Keep an eye on the water level as there are lots of air bubbles in the system that will slowly work out. This may be sped up by having the front lifted.

If you have an OBD adapter and phone app to monitor things, have that running so you can check on coolant temp, AFR, MAF rate, fuel trims, etc.

It'll smoke like a bastard from the assembly lube. It'll smoke more and longer if you overfill the oil as it all gets puked up the breather tubes into the intake.

 

 

 

https://www.jimellismazdaparts.com probably has the best interface for finding part numbers. You can order from them or wherever else has the parts once you have the part number. I'm partial to Mazda Motorsports Development but that's mostly because I submit autocross results and to get their wholesale pricing.

 

Who rebuilt it? I would call and ask for my bolts back.

 

I have asked but they say they don’t have them. I know they were there. I left a lot of nuts and bolts screwed in where they belong

 

Probably not worth the hassle but if you have a junk yard near by with an RX8, you could go rob some of the bolts you need of it??

 

 

 

That is a question that cannot be answered here. But I would not run without them, they are there for a reason.

 

 

 

Yeah typical, you can find used ones or pony up for a new one. Its very easy to break them due to heating and cooling cycles of the engine.

 

 

Curiosity - How much did they charge for vacuum manifold?

 

 

Smart move.

Did you test your oil injectors and vacuum solenoids? If not, I strongly recommend you do that.

 

 

My process was to just let it idle up to warm while keeping an eye on coolant level and watch for leaks. Deal with any issues that pop up. If none pop up, shut it down, check the oil level and do a last round of whatever checks seem prudent.

If everything looks good, start it back up and drive it around the block. If everything still looks good, drive it farther. You should know pretty quickly if something is catastrophically wrong (oil line not connected correctly, coolant hose clamp not tight, injector grommet damaged/missing, etc).

If you really want to be prepared, rent a coolant system tester from an auto parts store. Pressurize the coolant system before the first start. It should hold 13 psi. If so, you're good. If not, find the leak. I recommend you do at least a partial fill before doing this as the tool is a hand pump and it can take a while to pressurize and empty cooling system.

 

Does anyone rebuild in Michigan, By Detroit?

 

Closest I'm aware of is Banzai Racing near Ft. Wayne, IN.