DIY: RX-8 Engine Removal How-to-with Pics
07-01-2012, 12:24 PM
#126
To get at the bolts...you need to move the midpipe out of the way if it is still hooked up and use a few long extensions and a swivel from back beside the transmission. About 3 feet works well 
You can get at all the difficult bolts like that
You can get at all the difficult bolts like that
07-30-2012, 01:22 AM
#128
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A rebuild warranty for 12,000 miles or 1 year from mazda cost $2000 here is Albany, NY. I see that as a decent deal i might take advantage of. $1000 core but I'll be going there with the core.
07-30-2012, 10:01 AM
#129
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09-03-2012, 03:47 PM
#130
kevin@rotaryresurrection
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Very nice DIY thread man, Will be doing this in a month to paint my engine bay, one quick question as I have never done an engine pull, On the reinstallation do you have to be concerned with air in the fuel, coolant, and oil lines. I doubt it effects anything except when you first start the engine some sputtering due to lack of fuel but figured I would ask
Thanks
Thanks
09-25-2012, 12:54 PM
#132
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You have a method to lift the entire car chassis at least 36" off the ground safely? A method to support and dolly the subframe/engine/trans/suspension assembly out from under the car?
09-27-2012, 02:34 AM
#133
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Here you go my friend...unfortunately the FSM is not all that descriptive IMO to be honest.
Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals
In other news, I had an rx8 engine out of the car and torn apart in about 3.5 hours total labor using my method. And a good 45 minutes of that labor was fooling with a siezed/rusted oil cooler line fitting.
Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals
In other news, I had an rx8 engine out of the car and torn apart in about 3.5 hours total labor using my method. And a good 45 minutes of that labor was fooling with a siezed/rusted oil cooler line fitting.
04-04-2013, 07:26 PM
#136
Gotta Love Two Strokes
I am not sure if this was covered before, if so my apologies, but we got the engine out fine with the AC compressor still attached to the lines, but putting the motor back in it just kept getting in the way and we just bit the bullet and disconnected the lines to the compressor and it made life so much easier getting it out of the way for install.
Also, removing the upper intake manifold on removal made dealing with the rear hoist attachment easier because we were able to attach the load leveler closer to the engine and avoid (for the most part) the load leveler interfering with the firewall and the ac and brake lines that go across the firewall.
Also, removing the upper intake manifold on removal made dealing with the rear hoist attachment easier because we were able to attach the load leveler closer to the engine and avoid (for the most part) the load leveler interfering with the firewall and the ac and brake lines that go across the firewall.
04-05-2013, 01:29 AM
#137
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Removing the UIM is a must before removal and reinstall. Getting the engine out and in with the AC lines still connected to the AC compressor is very doable, we have don it several times. But it does get in the way during reinstall. I hate that damn thing.
04-05-2013, 11:31 AM
#139
kevin@rotaryresurrection
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I am not sure if this was covered before, if so my apologies, but we got the engine out fine with the AC compressor still attached to the lines, but putting the motor back in it just kept getting in the way and we just bit the bullet and disconnected the lines to the compressor and it made life so much easier getting it out of the way for install.
Also, removing the upper intake manifold on removal made dealing with the rear hoist attachment easier
1) the rearmost bolt for the UIM is under the cowl and it is fairly hard to get to, for the average person with average tools. Then again, I guess it's no harder to get to than the top transmission bolts.
2) you stand a significantly higher chance of getting something down in the intake, like a nut or bolt. I actually get a couple of rotary engines per year that have had this happen, and it does a lot of damage to the internals. Now of course it doesn't really matter if something falls into the engine during removal, because it's probably getting completely disassembled and rebuilt (or parts sold off) anyway.
BUT if you remove the engine with the UIM off, you're going to be inclined to re-install it with the UIM off that time also, and that can get you into trouble. So for that reason I think it's better for the average joe to leave it in place.
I have found that automatic models pretty much have to remove the UIM to get the engine out.
because we were able to attach the load leveler closer to the engine and avoid (for the most part) the load leveler interfering with the firewall and the ac and brake lines that go across the firewall.
04-05-2013, 11:32 AM
#140
04-11-2013, 10:12 PM
#141
Super Moderator
Yep, Kevin is a GREAT RE re-builder and is very much appreciated here by all members.
His expertise like many is for free, however, it has been noticed that some newer members are privately contacting RR with some silly questions.
To help maintain Kevin's sanity (
), please post questions here in this forum or thread.
Moderators are trying to curtail those posts (posters) who abuse their position by only offending those asking the question/s for help...
It really is very simple...... IF members are tired of replying to the same questions repeatedly then just ignore it and move on....easy peasy.
His expertise like many is for free, however, it has been noticed that some newer members are privately contacting RR with some silly questions.
To help maintain Kevin's sanity (
), please post questions here in this forum or thread.Moderators are trying to curtail those posts (posters) who abuse their position by only offending those asking the question/s for help...
It really is very simple...... IF members are tired of replying to the same questions repeatedly then just ignore it and move on....easy peasy.
04-11-2013, 11:09 PM
#142
kevin@rotaryresurrection
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There is not a snowball in hell's chance that I am going to be replacing my own engine BUT I just felt I had to say a big thank you to the original poster for doing such a brilliantly thorough job of writing up the procedure.
Exceptional.
Getting my engine replaced next week - may well bring this to their attention as they say it will take several DAYS!
Well done OP - a very kind man :-)
Exceptional.
Getting my engine replaced next week - may well bring this to their attention as they say it will take several DAYS!
Well done OP - a very kind man :-)
04-28-2013, 09:29 PM
#143
I followed these instructions to remove and install my engine and I wanted to share some things I learned.
#1: I used an engine leveler to remove the engine and it bent the hell out of the fire wall lip. To install the engine it hit the firewall and I could not push the engine back far enough to mate with the trans. After a couple hours of trying I ditched the leveler for two chains connected to the main hoist hook and two smaller hooks on the individual chains which connected to the engine brackets. Unfortunately the hoist (standard harbor freight version) could not go extend forward far enough or it would hit the bumper. I had to be creative and move the adjustable arm past the 1/2 ton mark so the bolt hole was at the end of the main hoist support and attach a chain to that so the arm would not fall completely out. Finally the motor was going back further, but the hooks I used in the back was hitting the firewall. Eventually I ditched the hook and used a 12mm bolt with some big washers to attach the chain to the engine bracket. In looking at the pictures above it looks like Kevin uses one chain and puts a bolt though the links to "choose a level position". I will do this in the future and I wish I paid closer attention the first time to this image.
#2 Now that I finally have the hoist issues resolved the engine and trans still wouldn't mate. I had to loosen the pressure plate hoping this would help. I put my 14mm wrench in a vice and hammered it into a deep set shape and this worked really well to loosen and tighten the pressure plate nuts through the starter hole. I just used a flat head screwdriver to hold the flywheel in position.
#3 I still could not get the engine and trans to mate by hand so I used the long starter bolt to start to pull them together. Once they were close, I used the other starter bolt and some large 17mm nuts as spacers on passenger side to even out the pressure. It eventually worked but I was very concerned I could damage something. I went slow and watched for any increase in turning pressure. After 4 hours of trying I didn't really care at the time, I just wanted them together.
#4 As the engine and trans got closer I mated the cat and exhaust manifold so it wouldn't have to pry them on later. The exhaust manifold hitting the cat studs was also an issue in getting the engine and trans to mate by hand.
#5 When installing the engine, I forgot the upper flywheel cover which mounts to the engine. That handy 12mm bolt and washers I used on the hoist then proceeded to fall into this hole between the engine and flywheel.
If I were to do it again:
Use a single length of chain on the front and rear engine brackets. Then use a low profile bolt to attach the rear chain.
Not tighten the pressure plate bolts until the engine and trans are mated.
Use the starter bolt to pull the engine and trans together once close.
Cheers,
Lucky Kid (Roy)
#1: I used an engine leveler to remove the engine and it bent the hell out of the fire wall lip. To install the engine it hit the firewall and I could not push the engine back far enough to mate with the trans. After a couple hours of trying I ditched the leveler for two chains connected to the main hoist hook and two smaller hooks on the individual chains which connected to the engine brackets. Unfortunately the hoist (standard harbor freight version) could not go extend forward far enough or it would hit the bumper. I had to be creative and move the adjustable arm past the 1/2 ton mark so the bolt hole was at the end of the main hoist support and attach a chain to that so the arm would not fall completely out. Finally the motor was going back further, but the hooks I used in the back was hitting the firewall. Eventually I ditched the hook and used a 12mm bolt with some big washers to attach the chain to the engine bracket. In looking at the pictures above it looks like Kevin uses one chain and puts a bolt though the links to "choose a level position". I will do this in the future and I wish I paid closer attention the first time to this image.
#2 Now that I finally have the hoist issues resolved the engine and trans still wouldn't mate. I had to loosen the pressure plate hoping this would help. I put my 14mm wrench in a vice and hammered it into a deep set shape and this worked really well to loosen and tighten the pressure plate nuts through the starter hole. I just used a flat head screwdriver to hold the flywheel in position.
#3 I still could not get the engine and trans to mate by hand so I used the long starter bolt to start to pull them together. Once they were close, I used the other starter bolt and some large 17mm nuts as spacers on passenger side to even out the pressure. It eventually worked but I was very concerned I could damage something. I went slow and watched for any increase in turning pressure. After 4 hours of trying I didn't really care at the time, I just wanted them together.
#4 As the engine and trans got closer I mated the cat and exhaust manifold so it wouldn't have to pry them on later. The exhaust manifold hitting the cat studs was also an issue in getting the engine and trans to mate by hand.
#5 When installing the engine, I forgot the upper flywheel cover which mounts to the engine. That handy 12mm bolt and washers I used on the hoist then proceeded to fall into this hole between the engine and flywheel.
If I were to do it again:
Use a single length of chain on the front and rear engine brackets. Then use a low profile bolt to attach the rear chain.
Not tighten the pressure plate bolts until the engine and trans are mated.
Use the starter bolt to pull the engine and trans together once close.
Cheers,
Lucky Kid (Roy)
04-28-2013, 11:27 PM
#145
kevin@rotaryresurrection
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I followed these instructions to remove and install my engine and I wanted to share some things I learned.
#1: I used an engine leveler to remove the engine and it bent the hell out of the fire wall lip. To install the engine it hit the firewall and I could not push the engine back far enough to mate with the trans. After a couple hours of trying I ditched the leveler for two chains connected to the main hoist hook and two smaller hooks on the individual chains which connected to the engine brackets. Unfortunately the hoist (standard harbor freight version) could not go extend forward far enough or it would hit the bumper. I had to be creative and move the adjustable arm past the 1/2 ton mark so the bolt hole was at the end of the main hoist support and attach a chain to that so the arm would not fall completely out. Finally the motor was going back further, but the hooks I used in the back was hitting the firewall. Eventually I ditched the hook and used a 12mm bolt with some big washers to attach the chain to the engine bracket. In looking at the pictures above it looks like Kevin uses one chain and puts a bolt though the links to "choose a level position". I will do this in the future and I wish I paid closer attention the first time to this image.
#2 Now that I finally have the hoist issues resolved the engine and trans still wouldn't mate. I had to loosen the pressure plate hoping this would help. I put my 14mm wrench in a vice and hammered it into a deep set shape and this worked really well to loosen and tighten the pressure plate nuts through the starter hole. I just used a flat head screwdriver to hold the flywheel in position.
#3 I still could not get the engine and trans to mate by hand so I used the long starter bolt to start to pull them together. Once they were close, I used the other starter bolt and some large 17mm nuts as spacers on passenger side to even out the pressure. It eventually worked but I was very concerned I could damage something. I went slow and watched for any increase in turning pressure. After 4 hours of trying I didn't really care at the time, I just wanted them together.
#4 As the engine and trans got closer I mated the cat and exhaust manifold so it wouldn't have to pry them on later. The exhaust manifold hitting the cat studs was also an issue in getting the engine and trans to mate by hand.
#5 When installing the engine, I forgot the upper flywheel cover which mounts to the engine. That handy 12mm bolt and washers I used on the hoist then proceeded to fall into this hole between the engine and flywheel.
If I were to do it again:
Use a single length of chain on the front and rear engine brackets. Then use a low profile bolt to attach the rear chain.
Not tighten the pressure plate bolts until the engine and trans are mated.
Use the starter bolt to pull the engine and trans together once close.
Cheers,
Lucky Kid (Roy)
#1: I used an engine leveler to remove the engine and it bent the hell out of the fire wall lip. To install the engine it hit the firewall and I could not push the engine back far enough to mate with the trans. After a couple hours of trying I ditched the leveler for two chains connected to the main hoist hook and two smaller hooks on the individual chains which connected to the engine brackets. Unfortunately the hoist (standard harbor freight version) could not go extend forward far enough or it would hit the bumper. I had to be creative and move the adjustable arm past the 1/2 ton mark so the bolt hole was at the end of the main hoist support and attach a chain to that so the arm would not fall completely out. Finally the motor was going back further, but the hooks I used in the back was hitting the firewall. Eventually I ditched the hook and used a 12mm bolt with some big washers to attach the chain to the engine bracket. In looking at the pictures above it looks like Kevin uses one chain and puts a bolt though the links to "choose a level position". I will do this in the future and I wish I paid closer attention the first time to this image.
#2 Now that I finally have the hoist issues resolved the engine and trans still wouldn't mate. I had to loosen the pressure plate hoping this would help. I put my 14mm wrench in a vice and hammered it into a deep set shape and this worked really well to loosen and tighten the pressure plate nuts through the starter hole. I just used a flat head screwdriver to hold the flywheel in position.
#3 I still could not get the engine and trans to mate by hand so I used the long starter bolt to start to pull them together. Once they were close, I used the other starter bolt and some large 17mm nuts as spacers on passenger side to even out the pressure. It eventually worked but I was very concerned I could damage something. I went slow and watched for any increase in turning pressure. After 4 hours of trying I didn't really care at the time, I just wanted them together.
#4 As the engine and trans got closer I mated the cat and exhaust manifold so it wouldn't have to pry them on later. The exhaust manifold hitting the cat studs was also an issue in getting the engine and trans to mate by hand.
#5 When installing the engine, I forgot the upper flywheel cover which mounts to the engine. That handy 12mm bolt and washers I used on the hoist then proceeded to fall into this hole between the engine and flywheel.
If I were to do it again:
Use a single length of chain on the front and rear engine brackets. Then use a low profile bolt to attach the rear chain.
Not tighten the pressure plate bolts until the engine and trans are mated.
Use the starter bolt to pull the engine and trans together once close.
Cheers,
Lucky Kid (Roy)
You probably made even more work for yourself by loosening the PP and letting the disc slide around inside. Mating an engine and trans does require some experience and sometimes a bit of wrestling and pushing/wiggling/prying in various directions, but once you gain some experience with one or two such installs, they will usually go much more quickly in the future as you'll know what to do and how to do it.
They key is to be sure the engine and trans are lined up in two planes, then a little wiggle action and a prybar placed in just the right spot and "plop" it slides almost all the way into place.
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ASH8 (10-24-2019)
06-09-2013, 07:15 PM
#146
Super Moderator
Here is the free PDF on Mazda RX-8 13B-MSP Engine Removal...
All RX-8 Forum Members thanks RotaryResurrection for his great service and advice.
Mazda RX-8 13B-MSP Engine Removal PDF
This link above for 14.0 MB PDF "How to Remove RENESIS RE Engine from RX-8"
All RX-8 Forum Members thanks RotaryResurrection for his great service and advice.
Mazda RX-8 13B-MSP Engine Removal PDF
This link above for 14.0 MB PDF "How to Remove RENESIS RE Engine from RX-8"
Last edited by IB Nolan; 06-10-2013 at 12:18 PM.
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brapgarage!! (01-14-2020)
06-20-2013, 10:35 PM
#148
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Well I pulled my engine out the other day using this thread and I want to thank Rotary Resurrection, your DIY has helped greatly.
I just want to throw this tad bit of advice out there for anyone with the rx8 performance oil pan. Consider removing the oil pan while the engine is still in the car. It was a total PIA trying to maneuver the ac compressor around the extended portion of the oil pan when pulling the engine out. It is an extremely tight fit but can be done. Also if you remove the oil pan before you pull the engine you can drain the coolant from the block much easier since the bolt is literally millimeters above the oil pan.
I just want to throw this tad bit of advice out there for anyone with the rx8 performance oil pan. Consider removing the oil pan while the engine is still in the car. It was a total PIA trying to maneuver the ac compressor around the extended portion of the oil pan when pulling the engine out. It is an extremely tight fit but can be done. Also if you remove the oil pan before you pull the engine you can drain the coolant from the block much easier since the bolt is literally millimeters above the oil pan.
06-29-2013, 07:15 PM
#149
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RR-
Thanks for posting this up, there are a few snags with an RX-8 that you just don't run into with an RX-7. Thanks to this, I'd have the engine and transmission out of the donor car already, but I appear to be running out of daylight.
I now know my plans for July 4th- finish up this job.
Thanks again.
Thanks for posting this up, there are a few snags with an RX-8 that you just don't run into with an RX-7. Thanks to this, I'd have the engine and transmission out of the donor car already, but I appear to be running out of daylight.
I now know my plans for July 4th- finish up this job.
Thanks again.
