Rebuilt. Now what?
04-24-2018, 11:30 AM
#79
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How long total have you run the car? After I rebuilt my engine, I had to hold the throttle open from 2k-4k for like 10 minutes to keep it from dying. Eventually, it would idle. A few idling session later and the car would start, run, and idle like normal.... Car now pulls clean up to 8,200 with a ton of boost.
I would first start with a compression test using a regular tester and find out whats the highest compression you make in each rotor housing. Then I would hook a timing gun up to each spark plug wire to make sure you are getting normal spark at each plug.
I would first start with a compression test using a regular tester and find out whats the highest compression you make in each rotor housing. Then I would hook a timing gun up to each spark plug wire to make sure you are getting normal spark at each plug.
04-24-2018, 11:41 AM
#80
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I would say in total 25-30mins forced run time maybe 5 mins max length at one time. and thick white smoke every time and oily liquid spit from exhaust. Sluggish or boggy gain in rpm as well.
04-24-2018, 12:37 PM
#82
You really do need to do a compression test on it, even if its not the a rotary specific one. Hold the valve open and watch the needle. Just see if all the bumps are the same between faces and between front and rear rotors.
I think we all suspect what its going to tell you...but...its better than guessing.
Also, how much air is being forced out of the PCV when its running? That'll tell you something too.
I think we all suspect what its going to tell you...but...its better than guessing.
Also, how much air is being forced out of the PCV when its running? That'll tell you something too.
04-24-2018, 05:31 PM
#83
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What would be a good number to see the compression test pulse to. And what should total compression be for each rotor. Roughly of course
04-24-2018, 06:51 PM
#85
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04-24-2018, 06:55 PM
#86
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From my experience, anything above 90 psi on each rotor and you should be able to idle ok. Anything less than 80 psi and it will be hard to start. These numbers were on a REW, which is only 9:1.
You say you are discharging a thick white smoke, I would think after 20-30 minutes that all of the assembly lube would be burned off. It could be a water seal that didn't seal right, or maybe an oil control ring issue....
You say you are discharging a thick white smoke, I would think after 20-30 minutes that all of the assembly lube would be burned off. It could be a water seal that didn't seal right, or maybe an oil control ring issue....
04-24-2018, 06:59 PM
#87
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From my experience, anything above 90 psi on each rotor and you should be able to idle ok. Anything less than 80 psi and it will be hard to start. These numbers were on a REW, which is only 9:1.
You say you are discharging a thick white smoke, I would think after 20-30 minutes that all of the assembly lube would be burned off. It could be a water seal that didn't seal right, or maybe an oil control ring issue....
You say you are discharging a thick white smoke, I would think after 20-30 minutes that all of the assembly lube would be burned off. It could be a water seal that didn't seal right, or maybe an oil control ring issue....
04-24-2018, 07:34 PM
#89
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Seems like it’s fine to the engine I disconnected the fuel line under the hood and attached a line from it to a glass container and it filled it in two key cycles.
04-25-2018, 06:41 AM
#90
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That doesn't mean the pressure is within spec. If you keep striking out, I would get a cheap gauge and check it to be sure.
05-05-2018, 01:45 PM
#91
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So I’ve done everything imaginable to get this car to run. It starts hot or cold but does not idle and I have no power. I kept it running for about 20 mins using throttle. And my oil light comes on. Ya only a drip on the end of the stick. Yup burnt all the oil aswell as spit some out of the exhaust.
03-19-2019, 06:59 AM
#94
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Late update on rebuild
Update one the engine .Props to you guys .I took it back to the yahoo that built it and they found a cracked oil seal .they are coming good for it and replacing the seal and the rear iron because it got scratched from the cracked seal
03-19-2019, 07:01 AM
#95
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Anyone have a rear iron for a 04 that's In very good shape . preferred in Canada
06-08-2019, 08:06 AM
#96
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I'm back
So I literally just got the engine back yesterday. But now have all new issues. The light that looks like a red car with a key in it flashes fast when key turns to on and car doesn't turn over or even try to. My obd doents sync and i can't seem to get the oil needle to move with the 20 brake stomp. Do I need the dealer to flash the ecu?
06-08-2019, 10:33 AM
#98
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Original ecu and original key. And I only got one key when I purchased the car unfortunately. Also clutch petal goes to the floor and stays there. I have to pick it up by hand.tried bleeding but nothing comes out of bleed screw except air. Was bleeding for 5 mins maybe still no fluid coming out. So Dead master or slave?
06-08-2019, 11:08 AM
#99
I mean that tells me the hydraulic line isn't even connected or the whole system is empty. I would start with the slave. The master would be leaking fluid all over the place and behind the clutch pedal if was that compromised. Did the shop put the engine back in or you did it yourself?
06-08-2019, 12:29 PM
#100
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This is the second time putting the engine in. The first time was fine but they botched the rebuild and this time it's the clutch and the security light flashing. (so far). Also this is a diff engine that was running good but they did a V8 swap (puke). So they took this good engine and replaced all seals and gaskets with full rebuild kit. It's a Well established shop to I should say