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Alright, so I've read up on some of the other cases of this on the site (at least ones I could find) and it appears that my car may have lost "my key" in the immobiliser functionality, at least that is what I'm hypothesizing at the moment.
The weird thing is that I was driving and went to accelerate when the problem arose. I immediately lost everything (power brakes, power steering) and nearly all the lights on the dash lit up. I pulled off to a side road and tried to start the car. No turning over, no clicking, but all lights on the dash were functioning and the radio worked, lights, trunk remote release, remote lock, etc. all worked. I tried to hook up my Cobb to check for CEL codes, but it could not recognize my car. I tried that a number of times to no avail.
Next, I checked the fuses. All fuses near driver-side door looked to be intact. Under the hood, I found a blown 15A fuse (engine fuse). I was really hoping that replacing that one would fix my problem. Unfortunately, nothing seemed different and still the same problem.
I had the car towed to my house (~0.5 miles away). I didn't have time to check the 120A fuse, but that will be the very next thing that I check when I get home.
The other very unfortunate part of this story is that I don't have another working key, as I think I've read this problem could go away quickly if I had the other key. That key was lost in the first month of ownership. Luckily I have a beater car that I can take to work and back but this is f'n annoying.
Points of note:
Original Owner
2004 MT
82,500 miles
Not sure if it has the upgraded starter?
BHR Ignition
AP Cobb (with MM Base Map installed for 1.5 weeks)
If you have any ideas or know where I could research this situation further, I would greatly appreciate the help.
The 15A Engine Fuse that I found blown during the initial inspection was replaced. I checked it again when I got home from work and it was blown again. Replaced it again and tried to start, and you guessed it, blown again.
Looking from front of car, it is grounded to the 10mm bolt on the fire wall just to the right of where the engine cover grommet hooks up on the driver side. I saw another install where someone used this same spot. It has been hooked up for about 15,000 - 20,000 miles (over 1 year now).
This is something I thought about, but won't get to look that deep until this weekend. I can then check the install and make sure all contacts and wires are still good.
This is so weird. I was just saying how reliable my car has been and how proud I was to be an [original] owner of an '04. The car seemed to be running better than ever after I got the base map for the Cobb.
I gotta hang it up for tonight, time to do more research and get a game plan together.
After checking the wiring diagrams for thoroughly, it does appear that the BHR ignition is on this part of the fuse. I will start taking this apart tonight and look for frayed/clipped/cut wires. Maybe something has rattled loose and caused one of the hot wires to short to the ground, or something else that I've not considered.
I'm really hoping this is the case and I can get back functional by the end of saturday!
Problem solved. One of the wires that runs to the coil adapter harness was shorting to ground. It was the second coil back and the pink wire from the BHR wiring harness had rubbed against the engine bracket (pull point for engine in front). I removed the harness and taped up the damaged wires. Replaced fuses and am back in business.
MazdaManiac, thanks for the suggestion of looking at the ground. It opened my eyes to the possibility of an issue with the coils. When I looked at the wiring diagram in greater detail, I noticed that the ENGINE fuse was a safety for the ignition system, and the ignition system is the only part of that diagram that I have ever touched. It became very clear after I removed the stock air box that there might be an issue with the wires as they are very cramped.
So glad that is done and no money out of pocket!!!
Recently my battery died when I connected the cable I connected them wrong way round
And now I have some electric power
Basically at first I was told to check main fuse which was ok....but I still changed it as I ordered one so thort I'd just put it on....I've checked all fuses and relays
The only fuse which had blown was the room fuse which I've replaced
I've even checked the ecu which seems fine
What could it be???
Been told maybe the Immobiliser not letting me start the car???
The only power I have is to all window, headlight, stereo and air conditioning unit works fine....
When I put key in ignition I have no lights on dash apart from flashing key light and door open light ( door was open so this why its on)....I can hear a clicking noise from main fuse box???
So all the gauges have no power and won't turn over....
Any body have same issue ??? Or. An any one suggest anything for me to try or replace ???
I
I'm having this same issue right now. I replaced one of my BHR coils, went for a test drive, and engine cut-off with all other systems seeming fine. Can't find any blown fuses though. Any ideas greatly appreciated!
EDIT: Was the engine fuse. Something about the ignition coil connector was causing the engine fuse to blow.
Last edited by stickyRice; 10-16-2015 at 12:19 PM.
The BHR wires tend to ground out at the engine lift point if you are not careful and blow the 15 amp engine fuse. That's the first place to look.
+1^
Exactly what happened to me.
The connector got jammed against the engine lifting bracket, shorted out, popping the engine fuse, leaving me stranded at work 20 miles from home and had to get towed.
(Luckily, I had AAA & 1 free tow)
I removed the lift bracket to ensure it wouldn't happen again.
However, the 2 long bolts holding the bracket also help secure the water pump, so I used washers the same thickness as the bracket to be sure they wouldn't bottom out and cause a leak.
EDIT: Was the engine fuse. Something about the ignition coil connector was causing the engine fuse to blow.
Charles from BHR said this is pointed out as a possibility in the installation instructions.
I must have overlooked it when installing mine.
This is a good time to point it out in case someone buys a used kit without the instructions, or buys or inherits an 8 with the kit.
has a similar issue and it turned out to be one of the coils that had 'failed', replaced and everything worked again.
You had a failed coil that caused the fast flashing immobilizer light to come on and blow the engine fuse?
I don't think just a failed coil would cause that condition, if so, that's news to me.
You had a failed coil that caused the fast flashing immobilizer light to come on and blow the engine fuse?
I don't think just a failed coil would cause that condition, if so, that's news to me.
Just to clarify, and perhaps this is an echo, but it wasn't the bad coil causing the short, it was the wiring harness.
What if it just flashes rapidly w/o a pattern just blink blink blink blink....? I replaced my coils with stock ones and I drove it for around 100 miles and the immobilizer went off and turned my car off while in motion. I replaced my Battery, terminals, and the 15amp fuse. I am so lost.
09-08-2010, 03:59 PM
Fast Flashing Immobiliser - Now won't start
