Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
#1553
Yank My Wankel
iTrader: (4)
Two Questions, why on our cars does the clutch line need to be bleed after changing the clutch, is it just due to the change of position of the clutch release cylinder extender? Seems any other reason would be unnecessary.
Also I have the oil filer neck assembly off the block with the the solenoids and all, noticed that over the years it seems some oil froth (for lack of a better term) has built up around the bottom, would running water threw this assembly to flush this out cause any damage to anything, Im not sure if the solenoids are exposed internally. Otherwise i was just going to do my best with some shop towels.
Thanks
Also I have the oil filer neck assembly off the block with the the solenoids and all, noticed that over the years it seems some oil froth (for lack of a better term) has built up around the bottom, would running water threw this assembly to flush this out cause any damage to anything, Im not sure if the solenoids are exposed internally. Otherwise i was just going to do my best with some shop towels.
Thanks
#1554
Registered
iTrader: (3)
adding water meth to a engine that is already tuned for FI and functioning well--can be done without an additional tune. You will lose a little power in doing so. It is a good insurance ( if installed and used correctly) and it is also a good way of keeping the engine as clean as possible.
Is it worth the cost? That depends on the owner and what they want.
other question--the solenoids are not exposed--you can clean it with anything you want.
Is it worth the cost? That depends on the owner and what they want.
other question--the solenoids are not exposed--you can clean it with anything you want.
#1557
Registered
iTrader: (3)
if you want to tune that is dependent on water methanol injection then you are on the edge imho all the time. The only way water methanol will give you more power on this engine is by allowing more advanced timing. Advancing the timing , to a certain degree, is not as beneficial as on a recip engine. The risk versus benefit becomes not worth it.
Water meth is a good insurance policy, but you STILL need to pay attention to quality gas and intake charge temps.
I have ran w/m injection for some years now--it does keep the engine cleaner. That I can testify too,, but with just a 75 mm nozzle I loose 10 rwhp ( almost across the board)evidenced by dyno.
Water meth is a good insurance policy, but you STILL need to pay attention to quality gas and intake charge temps.
I have ran w/m injection for some years now--it does keep the engine cleaner. That I can testify too,, but with just a 75 mm nozzle I loose 10 rwhp ( almost across the board)evidenced by dyno.
#1558
Yank My Wankel
iTrader: (4)
Could someone help me out, im looking for a thread I came across a couple months back, was a turbo build thread on a lightning yellow rx8, i believe it was yellow. Stood out because the intake manifold was painted yellow. If it sounds familiar could anyone point me in the direction I have been looking for it all morning.
Thanks
Thanks
#1562
Metatron
iTrader: (1)
Never turn it off while the air pump (vacuum cleaner noise) is running - the injectors are chucking in extra fuel to light off the catalyst - at least wait until that stops, 40 seconds max.
Rev the engine to around 3k then turn it off at the key.
The engine turning over after it's off will sweep any residual fuel/oil out as it coasts to a stop.
Don't go over 3k, that would open more injectors and make the excess fuel situation more worserer.
Rev the engine to around 3k then turn it off at the key.
The engine turning over after it's off will sweep any residual fuel/oil out as it coasts to a stop.
Don't go over 3k, that would open more injectors and make the excess fuel situation more worserer.
#1566
I just ripped up my fender liner on my paseenger side wheel. The screws are missing from the front portion of my undertray as well. Anyone know any negatives to running without the undertray and wheel liners? I'll probably take them off tomorrow until I find replacements.
#1567
#225 of 1000
iTrader: (7)
I just ripped up my fender liner on my paseenger side wheel. The screws are missing from the front portion of my undertray as well. Anyone know any negatives to running without the undertray and wheel liners? I'll probably take them off tomorrow until I find replacements.
get replacement screws/liners/ whatever you need to do, but keep them there.
lack of wheel well liners.. im not sure, i feel as though water will get in those connections to the foglights and the little "flap" that hides the "easy" access for the sparkplugs is right there too. I would keep them on.
you can find replacement plastic screws at NAPA or a similar parts store, if you are really lazy you can order them through mazdatrix for a little under $1 each
#1568
#1569
I had a similar issue where a part of my undertray actually melted off. Also had the wheel liner issue too. I temporarily used a waterproof heavy duty duct tape to seal it so water cant get in.
You can find the liners at onlinemazdaparts.com for about 40-50$. Thats where i got mine. They also sell the fasteners.
As far as the screws for the undertray goes, I went to lowes and I got these silver all-purpose automotive screws. They work great. I dont remember how many of each, but it gets a bit confusing. Half of the undertray uses the screws and then the other half uses the fasteners if I remember right. The portion that connects the undertray to the black guard underneath the front of the bumper is what uses the screws i think.
You can find the liners at onlinemazdaparts.com for about 40-50$. Thats where i got mine. They also sell the fasteners.
As far as the screws for the undertray goes, I went to lowes and I got these silver all-purpose automotive screws. They work great. I dont remember how many of each, but it gets a bit confusing. Half of the undertray uses the screws and then the other half uses the fasteners if I remember right. The portion that connects the undertray to the black guard underneath the front of the bumper is what uses the screws i think.
#1571
i wonder if a vehicle burned 5 quarts every 3000 miles, would you have to do oil changes as long as you keep adding oil?
#1572
I had a similar issue where a part of my undertray actually melted off. Also had the wheel liner issue too. I temporarily used a waterproof heavy duty duct tape to seal it so water cant get in.
You can find the liners at onlinemazdaparts.com for about 40-50$. Thats where i got mine. They also sell the fasteners.
As far as the screws for the undertray goes, I went to lowes and I got these silver all-purpose automotive screws. They work great. I dont remember how many of each, but it gets a bit confusing. Half of the undertray uses the screws and then the other half uses the fasteners if I remember right. The portion that connects the undertray to the black guard underneath the front of the bumper is what uses the screws i think.
You can find the liners at onlinemazdaparts.com for about 40-50$. Thats where i got mine. They also sell the fasteners.
As far as the screws for the undertray goes, I went to lowes and I got these silver all-purpose automotive screws. They work great. I dont remember how many of each, but it gets a bit confusing. Half of the undertray uses the screws and then the other half uses the fasteners if I remember right. The portion that connects the undertray to the black guard underneath the front of the bumper is what uses the screws i think.