Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
#7401
Registered
iTrader: (1)
More of a dumb me moment that I have to fix. I'm changing out my shift boot and accidentally threw away the boot and the black ring it attaches to. The new boot doesn't come with the plastic hardware so now I gotta find out where to get this What's the name/part number of it?
The only thing I can find is F151-64-330C which replaces both the boot and hardware. Would be nice to get just the hardware as I already have a replacement boot.
EDIT: Finally found it, part FE1564333. And guess what, its more expensive than the boot and panel combined go figure. Sad ending but I guess we got the answer.
The only thing I can find is F151-64-330C which replaces both the boot and hardware. Would be nice to get just the hardware as I already have a replacement boot.
EDIT: Finally found it, part FE1564333. And guess what, its more expensive than the boot and panel combined go figure. Sad ending but I guess we got the answer.
Last edited by blckninja; 04-07-2020 at 04:54 PM.
#7402
In the FSM they describe clutch pedal play based on when "resistance" is felt. I'm a bit confused as there is resistance from the pedal spring when the plunger hasn't even made contact with the master cylinder, then there is resistance from the cylinder itself, then further resistance from what I assume to be the pressure plate being depressed. Furthermore, pedal play is described as clutch pedal play, clutch pedal push rod play at push rod setting line, and play at pedal pad... Any advice on simplifying this or translating into something an idiot like me could understand would be really appreciated.
Edit: I figured this out, if anyone has trouble in the future just PM me. It's a lot simpler than the workshop manual makes it out to be.
Edit: I figured this out, if anyone has trouble in the future just PM me. It's a lot simpler than the workshop manual makes it out to be.
Last edited by Kimura; 05-02-2020 at 03:50 PM. Reason: resolved
#7403
What’s up guys I’m back. My 05 rx8 is still kicking. Presenting a few new problems. Not sure why it’s having these current issues. If anyone knows please let me know
current issues
1. The heater dial isn’t functioning properly. The temperature is bouncing all over the place. The thermometer and blower motor have already been replaced.
2. I can’t get into the trunk. The electronics are dead. Something is wrong with the lock too.
3. The car feels wobbly when I drive it. Even when the air is filled properly. 104k miles on her.
4. Front driver tire this winter loses air super quickly compared to other three. I had it checked out and the mechanic put some type of seal between the tire and the rim seemed to help.
5. The oil light came on three separate times and stood on for 45 min. I was slightly low according to the dipstick but just had a oil change and nothing was found when the shop did a scan. Not the best scanner though.
Best.
current issues
1. The heater dial isn’t functioning properly. The temperature is bouncing all over the place. The thermometer and blower motor have already been replaced.
2. I can’t get into the trunk. The electronics are dead. Something is wrong with the lock too.
3. The car feels wobbly when I drive it. Even when the air is filled properly. 104k miles on her.
4. Front driver tire this winter loses air super quickly compared to other three. I had it checked out and the mechanic put some type of seal between the tire and the rim seemed to help.
5. The oil light came on three separate times and stood on for 45 min. I was slightly low according to the dipstick but just had a oil change and nothing was found when the shop did a scan. Not the best scanner though.
Best.
#7404
Kind of dumb may have been answered I've been searching question
#7405
Registered
iTrader: (1)
My car dies at idle when it warms up. Every time the shift position was in neutral it would die in 1st 2nd 3rd 4th gear.. the dealership replaced the fuel pump and the essentric shaft position sensor after they did this the car had no power past 4k ram i believe limp mode and the power cut by half. Now they are saying they have to drop the fuel tank to fix the wiring? I never saw any wiring that would require this so not sure if they are ripping me off. But the car still dies at idle after 500$. Any help from anyone would be greatly appreciated even if I get flames.
#7407
Brand new engine rebuilt by one of the approved guys on here compressions fine it drove beautifully just the idle thing I did smell fuel but it drove like a beast. secondary air code engine light its been on wont go away. but ever since the dealership replaced the fuel pump the gas smell went away but it won't go past 4k rpm I mean it does but it fluctuates say 4 to 5 k feels like limp mode 5 to 6k feels like high flow 6 to 7 k in between. no clue whats going on there
All of the codes cleared for 4 days then came back
All of the codes cleared for 4 days then came back
#7408
I thought they didn't know what they were doing figured that ...i gave them the secondary air solenoid and he told me it was the wrong one...but I took one off looked exactly the same and bought it off of Atkins rotary Mazda dealership in corpus christi texas
#7409
You might be lucky here.
Find the Mazda recall for fuel pump leak.
They will put in new free pump, and that should fix the pump side.
I have a new upgraded pump, so I'll never take that recall until a leak.
Find the Mazda recall for fuel pump leak.
They will put in new free pump, and that should fix the pump side.
I have a new upgraded pump, so I'll never take that recall until a leak.
#7411
thats what they replaced before everything got worse the fuel pump recall
#7413
he said the ess was bad so he swapped it then he said the fuel pump wires were pulled so he had to drop the fuel tank to fix them and the secondary air valve needed to be swapped i took it home don't see anything wrong with the fuel pump bought the secondary air solenoid valve because the air pump and secondary air pump both turn on bought some silicone vacuum lines with clamps and waiting for em to get in the mail odds are a wire was lose when he swapped it and wanted me to pay more out of pocket for useless work also bought fuel injector cleaner if the secondary air valve doesn't turn off and it doesn't idle better probably look into another fuel pump or the rails or both
#7414
Little squeak?
Some forum digging hasn't really told me anything and I believe this to be a minor issue, but I'm wondering if the expertise here can help me track down a squeak. The conditions are below. I'm putting this in the dumb questions thread cause it's nit picking by me, I just like my cars to be as immaculate as I can, so I am tracking down every noise and oddity.
Warm engine, at idle in neutral. Is the only time I can hear it.
I can stop the squeak if I press the clutch in, even if it's just a little, not to a point where it's actually doing anything, just a touch. Also if the clutch is entirely engaged.
It is barely audible in the car with the windows up.
Sounds like it might be coming from the bottom of the engine area, I did the belts recently and checked them to see if they were it but no dice. Wondering if it might be transmission squeak since any touch of the clutch stops it, but I'm not sure cause the clutch afaik isn't even in play if it is as light a touch as I am doing. I have to inspect it closer, but it feels like all the clutch touch does it take up the free play and it still seems to stop the squeak, unless theres some electronic switches involved in the clutch, I'm pretty sure I am not pressing it hard enough to hit hydraulic action....
Thanks to anyone who can help me with ideas...
Warm engine, at idle in neutral. Is the only time I can hear it.
I can stop the squeak if I press the clutch in, even if it's just a little, not to a point where it's actually doing anything, just a touch. Also if the clutch is entirely engaged.
It is barely audible in the car with the windows up.
Sounds like it might be coming from the bottom of the engine area, I did the belts recently and checked them to see if they were it but no dice. Wondering if it might be transmission squeak since any touch of the clutch stops it, but I'm not sure cause the clutch afaik isn't even in play if it is as light a touch as I am doing. I have to inspect it closer, but it feels like all the clutch touch does it take up the free play and it still seems to stop the squeak, unless theres some electronic switches involved in the clutch, I'm pretty sure I am not pressing it hard enough to hit hydraulic action....
Thanks to anyone who can help me with ideas...
#7415
OK so dumb question....
What exhausts actually fit the series 2? I just got an 11 sport and looked like I had one (Invidia q300) but it ended up sitting in the back of the bumper where the S1 exit should be.
#7417
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
#7419
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
#7421
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
To be sure hold up the tap and be sure the bolt threads match by fitting it on the tap.
#7424
No respecter of malarkey
iTrader: (25)
you just need an M6x1.0 rethreading tap for the oil pan holes, most auto parts stores will have one or if you have a Tractor Supply store nearby they usually have them too
however, you also need a pick or some other sharp end type device to stick up in there to clean out the far bottom end where the tap won’t get. That’s where the sealant presses up into and if it builds up too much could cause the problem.
.
however, you also need a pick or some other sharp end type device to stick up in there to clean out the far bottom end where the tap won’t get. That’s where the sealant presses up into and if it builds up too much could cause the problem.
.
Last edited by TeamRX8; 05-19-2020 at 01:15 PM.
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