Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
#7351
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Originally Posted by Steve Dallas
I once measured the output curves of the Bose head unit and found it to be flat. Bose puts their filters in the amps. That means you can use any aftermarket amp and speakers with the head unit, as long as the amp is compatible with differential inputs. Many, if not most, Alpine amps are compatible. There are probably many other compatible amps. You can also use a higher quality LOC to make virtually any amp work with the head unit.
Bose speakers are terrible. Solve your cosmetic issue with the factory HU, and use an amp and speakers of your choice. That approach will yield much better sound.
Bose speakers are terrible. Solve your cosmetic issue with the factory HU, and use an amp and speakers of your choice. That approach will yield much better sound.
#7352
Sicker than your average
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Guys another really dumb question. I just installed a K&N Typhoon intake. Literally drove it home from the shop (about 5 miles) and the car went into storage for about a month as I was busy. This morning, popped the hood to check if everything is ok before starting it, and found a the little tray that sits under the intake box wet! Turns out it's oil! I've never had this problem before. The car has been perfect! What could it be?
Car started and idled fine.
Car started and idled fine.
#7353
Water Foul
Guys another really dumb question. I just installed a K&N Typhoon intake. Literally drove it home from the shop (about 5 miles) and the car went into storage for about a month as I was busy. This morning, popped the hood to check if everything is ok before starting it, and found a the little tray that sits under the intake box wet! Turns out it's oil! I've never had this problem before. The car has been perfect! What could it be?
Car started and idled fine.
Car started and idled fine.
The factory airbox IS a cold air intake, and it is capable of flowing more than an N/A Renesis can consume. There is no reason to change it, unless you want the extra space around the radiator. In that case, the only good option is the AEM intake. Rip that thing out, and put the factory airbox back in.
As for the oil, there are several possibilities. The simplest explanation could be the oil is overfilled, or was filled with a short funnel, which allowed oil to leak into the vacuum lines near the top of the filler neck.
It could be other serious or not serious things. Here is some additional light reading:
https://www.google.com/search?client...+oil+in+intake
#7354
Sicker than your average
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Originally Posted by Steve Dallas
Yes. They need an amp.Sigh. The Typhoon intake is probably the SINGLE WORST intake you can put on an RX-8. There might be worse junk eBay intakes, but probably not. The Typhoon raises the junk bar pretty high. It robs power, screws with your idle, and makes noise. The noise thing may be beneficial, depending on your perspective, but still not worth the problems it causes.
The factory airbox IS a cold air intake, and it is capable of flowing more than an N/A Renesis can consume. There is no reason to change it, unless you want the extra space around the radiator. In that case, the only good option is the AEM intake. Rip that thing out, and put the factory airbox back in.
As for the oil, there are several possibilities. The simplest explanation could be the oil is overfilled, or was filled with a short funnel, which allowed oil to leak into the vacuum lines near the top of the filler neck.
It could be other serious or not serious things. Here is some additional light reading:
https://www.google.com/search?client...+oil+in+intake
The factory airbox IS a cold air intake, and it is capable of flowing more than an N/A Renesis can consume. There is no reason to change it, unless you want the extra space around the radiator. In that case, the only good option is the AEM intake. Rip that thing out, and put the factory airbox back in.
As for the oil, there are several possibilities. The simplest explanation could be the oil is overfilled, or was filled with a short funnel, which allowed oil to leak into the vacuum lines near the top of the filler neck.
It could be other serious or not serious things. Here is some additional light reading:
https://www.google.com/search?client...+oil+in+intake
#7355
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Thanks Steve. I know it doesn't give me extra power. I did it for the noise! I've seen a few "oil in intake" threads before but never really cared because it never happened to me. The oil level was low. Between the lower dot and the dot above that. Thing is this has never happened before. I usually make a bit of a mess while filling the car with oil :D it spills a bit. But my stock filter has always been clean. This time the tray at the bottom of the intake housing was wet. It was a lot of oil!
.
#7356
Sicker than your average
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Originally Posted by Loki
In the 5 miles you drove it, did you wind it out to high rpm? Typically the oil upchuck happens at high rpm. However all bets are off with the Typhoon thing. Maybe its a crankcase oil intake.
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#7357
Water Foul
Search this site for every part you are considering putting on your car. There are problems with that intake reported all over RX-8 Club, and there are very good reasons we only recommend AEM and Racing Beat intakes.
https://www.google.com/search?client...typhoon+intake
.
https://www.google.com/search?client...typhoon+intake
.
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wannawankel (12-01-2019)
#7359
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Around July of this year I replaced my starter (second time since 2014) because it had bad connections. The car wouldn't even start. I got a N3Z1 starter from a scrapyard and when I installed it the engine would fire the first time it turned over. Now it's back to what it was doing before where it turns over 4-5 times before it starts. It starts which is great, but I'm confused why it would start quick when it was freshly installed and now it won't.
Why would getting a new starter temporarily make it start better, and then go back to normal only a few months later?
Why would getting a new starter temporarily make it start better, and then go back to normal only a few months later?
#7360
Project Seca
iTrader: (10)
Around July of this year I replaced my starter (second time since 2014) because it had bad connections. The car wouldn't even start. I got a N3Z1 starter from a scrapyard and when I installed it the engine would fire the first time it turned over. Now it's back to what it was doing before where it turns over 4-5 times before it starts. It starts which is great, but I'm confused why it would start quick when it was freshly installed and now it won't.
Why would getting a new starter temporarily make it start better, and then go back to normal only a few months later?
Why would getting a new starter temporarily make it start better, and then go back to normal only a few months later?
Also check your coils, wires, and plugs. Make sure your battery is strong and the terminals are both tight and free of corrosion.
#7361
Registered
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I'd check your compression, what you are describing is common if you have low compression and install a better starter. Will help with getting the car started yes, but it eventually catches back up as it gets worse.
Also check your coils, wires, and plugs. Make sure your battery is strong and the terminals are both tight and free of corrosion.
Also check your coils, wires, and plugs. Make sure your battery is strong and the terminals are both tight and free of corrosion.
I changed coils, wires, and plugs 2015 shortly after getting the car. I don't put a lot of miles on the car, but considering the time they're probably due for another change. Battery is okay, load tested it recently and terminals are clean.
#7362
Water Foul
That makes sense, I just didn't expect it to catch up in a matter of a few months. I'll definitely get it checked.
I changed coils, wires, and plugs 2015 shortly after getting the car. I don't put a lot of miles on the car, but considering the time they're probably due for another change. Battery is okay, load tested it recently and terminals are clean.
I changed coils, wires, and plugs 2015 shortly after getting the car. I don't put a lot of miles on the car, but considering the time they're probably due for another change. Battery is okay, load tested it recently and terminals are clean.
Declining compression causes slow cold and especially hot starts. You can mask the problem with an S2 starter, which has higher cranking RPM, but you will eventually have to address the underlying problem. It is probably worth having your compression checked.
Coils, plugs, and wires are typically ~20K mile parts. Physical age does not factor in here. Test the coils and check the plugs to be sure they are good, but I would not replace them just because they are few years old.
#7363
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Gentleman, another stupid question. I need to remove the wheels on an S1 base to get them painted. I have a set of 15 inch Mazda 3 rims lying around. Will they fit? The car has the smaller front brakes since it's a base model.
#7365
Local ECU Tuner
Looking for a tuner near clearwater/tampa in florida.
I have an 06 shinka that has a walker hi flow cat that has been punched out to be a mid pipe.
Its running REALLY rich and I need to find someone that can adjust it and also kill the CEL for the O2 sensors.
Not looking for anything crazy. The exhaust fumes are killing me in the car.
I tried calling and emailing rx8 performance (they are practically in my back yard) but no answers. Are they still in business?
Do they happen to be a member on here?
Any one else people would recommend? I can find tuners, but I want someone who knows about rotaries..
Bryan
I have an 06 shinka that has a walker hi flow cat that has been punched out to be a mid pipe.
Its running REALLY rich and I need to find someone that can adjust it and also kill the CEL for the O2 sensors.
Not looking for anything crazy. The exhaust fumes are killing me in the car.
I tried calling and emailing rx8 performance (they are practically in my back yard) but no answers. Are they still in business?
Do they happen to be a member on here?
Any one else people would recommend? I can find tuners, but I want someone who knows about rotaries..
Bryan
#7366
Modulated Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Looking for a tuner near clearwater/tampa in florida.
I have an 06 shinka that has a walker hi flow cat that has been punched out to be a mid pipe.
Its running REALLY rich and I need to find someone that can adjust it and also kill the CEL for the O2 sensors.
Not looking for anything crazy. The exhaust fumes are killing me in the car.
I tried calling and emailing rx8 performance (they are practically in my back yard) but no answers. Are they still in business?
Do they happen to be a member on here?
Any one else people would recommend? I can find tuners, but I want someone who knows about rotaries..
Bryan
I have an 06 shinka that has a walker hi flow cat that has been punched out to be a mid pipe.
Its running REALLY rich and I need to find someone that can adjust it and also kill the CEL for the O2 sensors.
Not looking for anything crazy. The exhaust fumes are killing me in the car.
I tried calling and emailing rx8 performance (they are practically in my back yard) but no answers. Are they still in business?
Do they happen to be a member on here?
Any one else people would recommend? I can find tuners, but I want someone who knows about rotaries..
Bryan
#7367
The Rx8's idle dies and dashboard lights up
my car is having a rough start up and once it does start up it jumps to about 2 and then drops to below 1 at its idle. eventually the car warms up enough and it dies either when im idled or when the car is at a stop. i was having issues earlier in the week with the car dying at stops or if i came to a red light. im not too sure on what to fix as ive searched everywhere. the only ideas i have is maybe sparks or maybe fuel filter ???
any suggestions?
any suggestions?
#7368
Registered
iTrader: (1)
my car is having a rough start up and once it does start up it jumps to about 2 and then drops to below 1 at its idle. eventually the car warms up enough and it dies either when im idled or when the car is at a stop. i was having issues earlier in the week with the car dying at stops or if i came to a red light. im not too sure on what to fix as ive searched everywhere. the only ideas i have is maybe sparks or maybe fuel filter ???
any suggestions?
any suggestions?
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gwilliams6 (12-31-2019)
#7370
Registered
iTrader: (1)
I have an 06 shinka that has a walker hi flow cat that has been punched out to be a mid pipe.
Its running REALLY rich and I need to find someone that can adjust it and also kill the CEL for the O2 sensors.
Not looking for anything crazy. The exhaust fumes are killing me in the car.
Bryan
Its running REALLY rich and I need to find someone that can adjust it and also kill the CEL for the O2 sensors.
Not looking for anything crazy. The exhaust fumes are killing me in the car.
Bryan
#7371
Registered
iTrader: (1)
The sheer size of the stock cat should tell you all you need to know about what to expect if you delete it. There's only one reason it's that big, and that's because it has a lot of work to do. Uncatalyzed rotary exhaust (really any exhaust but especially from rotaries) is nasty stuff -- way nastier than even the smell and the burning eyes/nose, as carbon monoxide is odorless but incredibly toxic.
#7373
Sicker than your average
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Hey guys. So I had to disconnect the battery on my car for a bit. After that, the car didn't idle properly. It kept dying at idle. It got a bit better, but 5 days later, it still occasionally dies at idle. Never happened before disconnecting the battery. I figured it's learning the fuel trims, but shouldn't it be done with that by now?
Car is a 2012 Spirit R with 6000 miles.
Car is a 2012 Spirit R with 6000 miles.
#7374
weeeeeeeeee
iTrader: (12)
there's a diagram / bulletin / whatever somewhere around here that outlines what it takes for the ECU to consider it has reached a normal drive state. This typically applies to ODB readiness tests.
I believe fuel learning is an ongoing thing. If it is starting right up and you have plenty of power I wouldn't worry too much. Drive it like you stole / rented it
I believe fuel learning is an ongoing thing. If it is starting right up and you have plenty of power I wouldn't worry too much. Drive it like you stole / rented it
#7375
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Thanks. I started it this morning and let it idle for 20 mins. Didn't stall again guess it's fixed.
One more thing. I have a gutted CAT from a 2007 lying around. I was thinking of installing that and selling my working CAT. Do S1 CATs fit on S2s?
One more thing. I have a gutted CAT from a 2007 lying around. I was thinking of installing that and selling my working CAT. Do S1 CATs fit on S2s?