200.mph

iTrader: (9)

nope just texted him, he sold it a while ago

Austin A T Allen

I've done a lot of research on the mounts but I can't seem to find trans mounts are they the same as the engine mounts?

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

The RX-8 has a powerplant frame. The transmission and diff are mounted to each other on a frame that is mounted in the front to the engine mounts and to the differential mounts in the rear

mazdafan1892

Hey guys, what's driving me crazy is when drive over the smallest bump in the road it sounds like a massive pothole. I am about to check the shocks and see if there is any grease on them. The drive feels wobbly. I just had my sway bar parts replaced. Also my 05 Rx8 had the engine mounts replaced. Any ideas?

How often do you replace your coolant? Its been like a year since I had to but mine was low like 2 weeks ago. It could have been when one of the mechanics opened it and didn't close it back right.

Last thing, my car idles at 2,000rpm when I first turn it on. Then drops to normal.

Thanks guys.

UnknownJinX

Yep, I would start with checking the shocks.

As for coolant, you can just add if it's low. A small amount of loss is fine over the course of a year, especially if your cap hasn't been replaced before(they get tired after some time). Using FL-22, you can just follow the Owner's Manual interval of 5 years. Modern coolants are pretty good. I feel like RIWWP's 2 year recommendation is overkill.

And yeah, cold idle of 2000 RPM is pretty normal.

mazdafan1892

Thanks SO much! I always try to keep on top of everything. It seems my car is burning through gas much faster these days, than when I first bought it. Idk. I had the wires, coils and spark plugs replaced at like 50-60k miles. Its close to 95k and my mechanic says they should be fine. No codes.

Also getting creaks on the front windshield area and the passenger seat shakes. I am like wth face? lol

Loki

iTrader: (1)

35-40k on those coils? They are past due.

mazdafan1892

He said they last 100K and I tried to tell him that its a rotary and they need to be checked. I will have someone else check them.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Just replace them. Even if they check out now, tomorrow they will still be a risk.

Salmonella_6

I now own a 2004 RX8 after moving back state side.
The problem I am having with my car is a loud sound coming from the air intake only while the car is underload and shortly after the car has reached operating temperatures and driving it for a while. You can say it sounds like a old truck, you can say it's making popping sounds. I removed the air intake and notice black residue inside the air intake tube, so I cleaned it out and the MAF sensor. The intake by the way is a short ram with a K&N filter on it. Does anyone know what may be causing this sound to come from my air intake?

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

It's likely the intake.... there are few aftermarket intakes that work correctly... and the K&N Typhoon short ram wasn't one of them...

Salmonella_6

I will look into replacing it.
Some mentioned to me that my intake manifold may be clogged. Does that seem possible as well?
Let me also state that this sound occurs when The car is in drive and I am stepping on the gas. I hear it when I am driving and it is loud like the tail pipes on a old truck. I can hear the normal sound of my engine and this louder sound that is coming from the air intake. I had my hood raised while someone set my parking brakes and held the brake pedal and step on the gas and it's no question that this continues (rapid popping sound) "don't know a better way to describe it" is loudly come from the air intake. Could this still be the K&N?

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Not likely.....

UnknownJinX

That black residue could be dirty K&N oil. You know, when people overoil it.

I can't see how an intake manifold could get clogged, unless you count SSV stuck closed as clogging.

Salmonella_6

That was mentioned to me as well that my SSV may need cleaning or replaced

UnknownJinX

There is a CEL for the SSV, and you will notice that your car will struggle to rev past about 3500 RPM.

Meanwhile, source a stock intake from a junkyard or get an AEM/Mazdaspeed unit.

Salmonella_6

I had edited the quoted post. So I just want to mention this as well

"Let me also state that this sound occurs when The car is in drive and I am stepping on the gas. I hear it when I am driving and it is loud like the tail pipes on a old truck. I can hear the normal sound of my engine and this louder sound that is coming from the air intake. I had my hood raised while someone set my parking brakes and held the brake pedal and step on the gas and it's no question that this continues (rapid popping sound) "don't know a better way to describe it" is loudly come from the air intake. Could this still be the K&N?"

Salmonella_6

Also the only code I have is for the crankshaft position sensor

Salmonella_6

Could it be the crankshaft position sensor? I have a code showing for that and that only.

UnknownJinX

Clean it. On the 04 and early 05 the ESS is more exposed than the later models, so it's more likely to attract debris and affect its readings.

Then, perform the 20 brake stomp ESS reset to see if it goes away. You will know when the oil pressure gauge sweeps.

Salmonella_6

I will replace it with a new one because it's easy to change. I hope that will clear up the problem.

Salmonella_6

Update. Got a new code. Think I figured out my problem. Intake Manifold tuning valve is stuck open.

gwilliams6

Worn coils can kill you cat and engine quickly.

You have a number of options for coils:
- The Cheapest option: BWD/Intermotor coils from auto parts stores like Advance Auto. 4 coils, 4 plugs, and 4 wires can be had for around $190-220 total based on whatever promotion is running at the time, shipped to your door for free. They are considered to be the first coil revision and you should expect to need to replace them around 20,000 miles, 30,000 miles max. They often come with a "lifetime warranty" by the auto parts store, which could potentially be leveraged for perpetually new coils.

- The Best Upgrade: The BHR ignition coil upgrade can be had for around $500, which eliminates the need to continue replacing coils periodically, as well as deliverying a significantly stronger spark for minor mileage and power gains. It is a proven kit with top notch customer service supporting it. It includes the wires, you still need to add plugs ($80)

- The For-Sure OEM: Mazmart sells all 4 coils of the latest OEM coil revision (C) for around $250, (just the coils, you still need to add plugs and wires) Supported by top notch customer service. They will likely last longer than 30,000 miles, but we don't have much solid data on how long the latest coil revision will last.

- The Most Expensive option: Buying from a dealer will run you around $300+ for the coils, $500+ for coils, wires and plugs, and if you have them do the install, expect to get a bill for anywhere from $700 to $1,800. You may not get the latest coil revision. Yes, you are getting shafted if you take this option, so bring lube.

- The Highest Risk option: Ebay coils continue to pop up as counterfeit, mislabeled, dead on arrival, and have zero post-purchase support largely. They are the "cheapest" listed price, but when you add that $92 or whatever to the price of anything in the list above from having to do it over again, you can see that they are no longer the cheapest option. Do it right the first time. "Motor King" coils are popping up at an attractive price on Ebay, but are being proven as ineffective, to the point of being unable to get the engine fired. "Mazda" branded coils on ebay are almost always counterfeit. Check the seller's name though, since some of our vendors sell legitimate coils there. The price will be $200+ though. Anything sold as "Mazda OEM" under ~$26 per coil should really be considered as suspect and probably counterfeit.

Be wary of "LSx D585 coil upgrades", as not all D585 coils are created the same, and the standard generic D585 coil is not properly designed internally for the RX-8's ignition needs. They generally "work", but there are anomalies and performance issues that have to be solved, if they can be solved. Definitely NOT a plug and play option, even if it is advertised as "plug and play"



GB: SakeBomb Garage IGN-1A Ignition Coil Kit


RX8 Club’s recommended maintenance schedule, more comprehensive and proactive than Mazda’s schedule.

30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.


every 60,000:
...all 30,000, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early
~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.

90,000:
...all 30,000, plus any 60,000 not yet done, plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks
~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.

At 100k, anything original in the cooling system is really suspect and failure prone. It represents the biggest threat to your engine.

__________________

UnknownJinX

RIWWP came back for a while, but again, really wish some of the things are updated.

I really think 30k-mile FL-22 coolant change is overkill unless you only cover 30k miles in 5 years. Modern coolant does pretty well so that's one thing I would just follow the factory schedule for.

Also, I actually cleaned my ESS before, and there was no change. 06+ models have a shield around the ESS so it doesn't really get dirty. 04 and 05 ones are more exposed, so it's more necessary to clean it.

BHR coils also are updated now. They are plug and play nowadays with no mounting bracket or washers to add.

gwilliams6

Still RIWWP's advice is great to follow. I cleaned my ESS too on my 2008 40th Anniversary Edition. I believe in preventive maintenance, which is never a bad decision IMHO of 46+ years of driving rotary cars. Cheers