Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
05-01-2015, 02:08 AM
#4702
So thanks to BCC I was able to find the code for my immobilizer issue:
That's explained more here:
https://euroesi.mazda.co.jp/esicont/...2e3801200.html
So it's an issue between the keyless module and the PCM. It looks like the PCM has locked up somehow, so resetting the NVRAM via the 20 brake stomp isn't working. Where can I go from here?
∩__∩∩∩∩∩∩____ = Communication error between the keyless control module and the PCM (no response or mismatched conditions)
https://euroesi.mazda.co.jp/esicont/...2e3801200.html
So it's an issue between the keyless module and the PCM. It looks like the PCM has locked up somehow, so resetting the NVRAM via the 20 brake stomp isn't working. Where can I go from here?
05-01-2015, 04:44 AM
#4703
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
So thanks to BCC I was able to find the code for my immobilizer issue:
That's explained more here:
https://euroesi.mazda.co.jp/esicont/...2e3801200.html
So it's an issue between the keyless module and the PCM. It looks like the PCM has locked up somehow, so resetting the NVRAM via the 20 brakestomp isn't working. Where can I go from here?
That's explained more here:
https://euroesi.mazda.co.jp/esicont/...2e3801200.html
So it's an issue between the keyless module and the PCM. It looks like the PCM has locked up somehow, so resetting the NVRAM via the 20 brakestomp isn't working. Where can I go from here?
I had a coil wire short that was fairly easy to fix.
The codes in that troubleshooting site I believe can only be read by special Mazda diagnostic software, but I'm not sure.
The Cobb Accessport can reflash the PCM I think, but again, Idk if that will help.
05-01-2015, 08:41 AM
#4706
Senior Member
OBD2 getting kicked offline is a big clue. You are losing electrical power momentarily. The most common culprit is the battery connections. I know you said it's already covered that, but you also said it was a few months ago.
Disconnect negative, then positive.
Clean the posts completely.
Clean the clamps completely, inside and out
When you reconnect, ensure that the clamp as a solid seat, wiggle it around as you slowly tighten to find where it wants to sit. MAKE SURE that you are actually tightening the clamp to the post. The stock clamps can actually bottom out the tightening bolt against itself, without actually gripping the post, and it will still look like it's on there.
See if the problem persists. If it does, get your alternator tested.
(And at 40k, if you haven't changed coils, plugs, wires, you should... normal maintenance in the 20-30k range)
Disconnect negative, then positive.
Clean the posts completely.
Clean the clamps completely, inside and out
When you reconnect, ensure that the clamp as a solid seat, wiggle it around as you slowly tighten to find where it wants to sit. MAKE SURE that you are actually tightening the clamp to the post. The stock clamps can actually bottom out the tightening bolt against itself, without actually gripping the post, and it will still look like it's on there.
See if the problem persists. If it does, get your alternator tested.
(And at 40k, if you haven't changed coils, plugs, wires, you should... normal maintenance in the 20-30k range)
I figured I had a bit more time on those B coils.
We think alike, the it was the reason I cleaned them a few months ago. I think I am going to replace them completely since they are still pretty clean. I may try the post stretcher since that is a 2 dollar quickfix. Long term is a 51R replacement, relocation to the trunk, and a Supercapacitor in the front for a higher voltage, fast amp start.
I had the alternator tested about 1k ago. The dealer claims it is ok, same with the battery and the electrical system.
The chase begins, thanks for the advice guys.
On the offset it isn't the connections, are there any specific points on the ECU's positive that I can check? Grounding is obvious, but I am thinking maybe the other half.
05-01-2015, 10:19 AM
#4707
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
05-01-2015, 11:29 PM
#4709
Professional Videographer
I have to change the belts in the 8 and was considering upgrading the pulleys, as well. All the kits I see are 2-3 pulleys but some pictures I see of the rx8 have 7. Can someone clarify how many belts and pulleys I should be replacing here?
Also, I was reading 2 pulley threads here and saw UR and SR to be the prime choices by people here. Does SR really make 12 hp gains? I doubt it but was wondering. I called and left a message at each store, was wondering how much of a weight difference is there between SR, UR, and OEM pulleys. If anyone knows, could you post some results?
1 more question: SR makes a wide grip pulley. Is this necessary for non-FI engines? I will at most get header and exhaust work done after the pulleys. If I do go forced induction, it will be some time away. Everything else is suspension and chassis work. Wide grip necessary?
Also, I was reading 2 pulley threads here and saw UR and SR to be the prime choices by people here. Does SR really make 12 hp gains? I doubt it but was wondering. I called and left a message at each store, was wondering how much of a weight difference is there between SR, UR, and OEM pulleys. If anyone knows, could you post some results?
1 more question: SR makes a wide grip pulley. Is this necessary for non-FI engines? I will at most get header and exhaust work done after the pulleys. If I do go forced induction, it will be some time away. Everything else is suspension and chassis work. Wide grip necessary?
Last edited by Team Tora Productions; 05-01-2015 at 11:31 PM.
05-02-2015, 04:55 AM
#4710
Registered
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 321
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
05-02-2015, 06:48 AM
#4711
Senior Member
Can you clarify this a bit more? I am wondering if how this comes to pass. (the coil shorting)
05-02-2015, 08:15 AM
#4712
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
I installed the BHR ignition and a wire got pinched between the harness and engine lifting bracket.
I removed the bracket to avoid
that in the future.
05-02-2015, 08:31 AM
#4713
Water Foul
My S2 car with stock cooling cruises at 179.6F on the highway in warm weather, and just a little higher at 183.2F in hot weather with the AC on.
I think yours is probably about right for an S1 car with stock cooling.
05-02-2015, 08:50 AM
#4714
Registered
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 16,684
Likes: 0
Received 240 Likes
on
110 Posts
It was a demonstration of how there is always more to consider.
Both temps indicated are ~12F below their resspective thermostats, which is functionally impossible if measured at the correct points. Measuring one part of the cooling system will get you different numbers than measuring at another point. And you can never get below your thermostat temp regardless of ambient.
I have determined that my issue here is a signal grounding problem messing with the gauge accuracy. But still. Never think in absolutes, always look for other possibilities.
(172f thermostat, rest is new stock system)
Both temps indicated are ~12F below their resspective thermostats, which is functionally impossible if measured at the correct points. Measuring one part of the cooling system will get you different numbers than measuring at another point. And you can never get below your thermostat temp regardless of ambient.
I have determined that my issue here is a signal grounding problem messing with the gauge accuracy. But still. Never think in absolutes, always look for other possibilities.
(172f thermostat, rest is new stock system)
Last edited by RIWWP; 05-02-2015 at 08:52 AM.
05-02-2015, 12:13 PM
#4715
Registered
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 321
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'll let RIWWP answer, but I'm willing to bet his cooling system is not stock, as that is an unusually low coolant temp.
My S2 car with stock cooling cruises at 179.6F on the highway in warm weather, and just a little higher at 183.2F in hot weather with the AC on.
I think yours is probably about right for an S1 car with stock cooling.
My S2 car with stock cooling cruises at 179.6F on the highway in warm weather, and just a little higher at 183.2F in hot weather with the AC on.
I think yours is probably about right for an S1 car with stock cooling.
At what speed? For a second I thought my radiator is clogged up hahaIt was a demonstration of how there is always more to consider.
Both temps indicated are ~12F below their resspective thermostats, which is functionally impossible if measured at the correct points. Measuring one part of the cooling system will get you different numbers than measuring at another point. And you can never get below your thermostat temp regardless of ambient.
I have determined that my issue here is a signal grounding problem messing with the gauge accuracy. But still. Never think in absolutes, always look for other possibilities.
(172f thermostat, rest is new stock system)
Both temps indicated are ~12F below their resspective thermostats, which is functionally impossible if measured at the correct points. Measuring one part of the cooling system will get you different numbers than measuring at another point. And you can never get below your thermostat temp regardless of ambient.
I have determined that my issue here is a signal grounding problem messing with the gauge accuracy. But still. Never think in absolutes, always look for other possibilities.
(172f thermostat, rest is new stock system)
05-02-2015, 05:00 PM
#4716
Water Foul
Ambient temps here reach 110+ in August, and the car runs a little hotter then, but not much. But, I usually leave the car in the garage for most of July and August, so it doesn't really metter.
05-02-2015, 05:53 PM
#4717
Just trying to get this straight. Mazda didn't start using FL-22 until 2005 in the RX8, so any 2004 RX8 from the factory didn't have FL-22 correct? Just trying to figure out if my information is correct or if i'm reading this paper wrong.
05-05-2015, 08:21 AM
#4718
Dont yell at the guy Blue.
Print out the new and potential owners thread and make him read it.
Yes, i know you can MAKE him read anything with the right motivation...Just saying..
Then he will understand slightly at least.
Every clutch you will ever own will have a "friction zone", you need to find it. If you couldn't it's because you were not paying attention the way you should. Focus blue, Focus.
Travis
Print out the new and potential owners thread and make him read it.
Yes, i know you can MAKE him read anything with the right motivation...Just saying..
Then he will understand slightly at least.
Every clutch you will ever own will have a "friction zone", you need to find it. If you couldn't it's because you were not paying attention the way you should. Focus blue, Focus.
Travis
05-05-2015, 11:56 AM
#4719
I don't know jack
I don't know why I am blocked from posting my RX8 for sale, dumb question but it is a question. All the links to words like "account" are going to advertising and not where it would normally take me to is rather over-the-top... marketing...... come on guys that's kind of desperate SMH!!
05-05-2015, 01:57 PM
#4721
Registered
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Orlando Florida
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey guys I have a 2005 Rx8 that just DIED while driving down the street (engine went off, electrical went off, everything). I towed it do dealership. Its been 2 days and the mechanic still doesn't know what's going on. When I just talked to the service rep who said he talked to mechanic and said:
"Every time he turns the ignition, it blows a fuse. There is something shorting the circuit (?)"
I'm so confused and dont know what he's talking about.
Does anyone know (1) what my problem is? and (2) how much i should budget to pay? and most importantly (3) how do I make sure I dont get hosed
"Every time he turns the ignition, it blows a fuse. There is something shorting the circuit (?)"
I'm so confused and dont know what he's talking about.
Does anyone know (1) what my problem is? and (2) how much i should budget to pay? and most importantly (3) how do I make sure I dont get hosed
05-05-2015, 02:08 PM
#4722
FULLY SEMI AUTOMATIC
iTrader: (9)
can we have some details please. did it slowly stall or just die? any warning lights? did things go dim first? any strange noises?
05-05-2015, 02:15 PM
#4723
Registered
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 16,684
Likes: 0
Received 240 Likes
on
110 Posts
Hey guys I have a 2005 Rx8 that just DIED while driving down the street (engine went off, electrical went off, everything). I towed it do dealership. Its been 2 days and the mechanic still doesn't know what's going on. When I just talked to the service rep who said he talked to mechanic and said:
"Every time he turns the ignition, it blows a fuse. There is something shorting the circuit (?)"
I'm so confused and dont know what he's talking about.
Does anyone know (1) what my problem is? and (2) how much i should budget to pay? and most importantly (3) how do I make sure I dont get hosed
"Every time he turns the ignition, it blows a fuse. There is something shorting the circuit (?)"
I'm so confused and dont know what he's talking about.
Does anyone know (1) what my problem is? and (2) how much i should budget to pay? and most importantly (3) how do I make sure I dont get hosed
WHICH fuse is pretty important, and we can't suggest a problem or a fix until we know which one.
05-05-2015, 02:19 PM
#4724
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
If you have an aftermarket coil setup, check those wires.
It happened to me, pinched against the engine lift bracket.
It happened to me, pinched against the engine lift bracket.
05-05-2015, 03:01 PM
#4725
Registered
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Orlando Florida
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
no strainge noises. things went dim but went dim in like ONE SECOND.
Thanks for your help!