yeah, not enough to make a significant difference.

So one last thing to test. Do you have anything to show OBD2 live data? like an OBD2 reader that can, an OBD2 bluetooth adapter, etc...? You can fire that up with the car just at 'on', engine off, then once you have RPM info, crank the engine with the gas pedal to the floor to see what your cranking RPMs are, to see if they gave you numbers that were at least close.

 

I do have an ultragage that can provide live feed information (including rpm). I dont however i font think have a way to log this info. Could you clarify that procedure a bit, ill crank the engine once the reader is on and ready to read rpm, while i crank the engine ill have my foot on the gas, what will i be looking for here?

I want to thank you for your help again.

 

Has anyone read or heard anything about the Pentius air filters ... Apparently they r a paper filter that meet or exceed the same standards of our OEM filter and has a better flow rate ... Or at least that's what they say ... Has any1 had any experiance with these ??

 

I believe that's the filter that I'm running.
All I can say is that it's an air filter

 

Have no experience with Pentius, but would be wary of other than OEM. For example, when Speedsource was running the RX8 they were using genuine Mazda OEM air filters on their car - they said that the K&N filters let too much grit through. I've heard the same from US racing, and others. Mazda spend a small fortune designing and testing intakes and filters to get the best performance orientated design. If you get a better flow rate than OEM you're sacrificing good filtration, grit can kill the rotary, and I haven't seen where the other filters and setups increase air flow to significantly increase HP. I stick with OEM.

 

K&N allows 1whp of more airflow through, and -233whp of more sand through.

The only way to get more flow without reducting filtration is to increase the total surface area of the filter that air traverses.

Given X width, Y length, and Z height of the air filter element, the only way to increase surface area is to 'scrunch it up' with folding:

Example:


However, there is definitely an optimum fold size. For example, if you kept folding even thicker, the air wouldn't be able to fill those valleys and pass through the walls, because the opening to get to each valley gets smaller and smaller. So there are diminishing returns to a point at which the effective surface area will cease climbing, and will abruptly fall off a cliff as suddenly none of the walls is getting any air at all.

So while it's theoretically possible that Mazda got their fold sizing and spacing wrong, it is unlikely. Even if they did however, you would only have incredibly tiny gains that wouldn't really be measurable.

This is all assuming that the filter fits in the stock air box. If it doesn't, then all of that is out the window.

But yes, he 450hp triple rotor RX-8s that Speedsource, Salen's, and Racer's Edge raced in Grand Am used stock RX-8 paper filters, and didn't find them a restriction, but did find them excellent at filtration. That should yell you something about what you have in your street car.

They mounted the filters up at the top of the hood at the base of the windshield, since they were going for the high pressure air zone there, plus a very short run to the engine intake ports:



But yes, that is a stock street RX-8 filter.

 

Correction, I'm running a Napa Gold/ WIX filter.

After some research it would appear that the Pentius filters are made by Purolator, which is a reputable brand. I would wager that the higher flow rate is nothing more than marketing (note that it says "meets or exceeds").

 

Pentius are probably a suitable, and unless you live close to a dealership, more convenient replacement. Nothing more.

 

I really wasn't expecting any power gain out of a new filter .. ... I was actually just looking for a" Easyer to find" that cost slightly less but didn't sacrifice filtration ... But thanks guygufor all the good info .. guess it's better not to risk it and just spend the extra $10 bucks lol

 

RIWWP ... That's an interesting placement they made for that intake ... ?? Do u think it works just right to b a cold air intake or do u think all the hot air from the engine bay gets in there instead ... How about at speed with the change in pressure there at the windshield ?? I May b interested in making a similer mod on my track car

 

Sorry, I didn't see this before.

If you hold the gas pedal to the floor while cranking, it will cut all fuel. It's for the factory built in deflooding. However, we are only interested in your RPM number from the ultragauge, we don't want the engine to fire. So cutting fuel is an easy way to let it crank without starting and without flooding.

There is a high pressure zone of air at the base of the windshield for any car in motion. How much high pressure depends on the car's speed and the exact shape of the car from the center of the roof forward. The pickup point for that intake is behind the hood, in the cowl. So if you look at your 8, the cowl where the windshield wipers are, those Grand Am RX-8s had a big cut out in that section. So you can see where it is all behind the hood, the hood doesn't close over the opening. So this means that the air box the airfilter is in is exposed to the high pressure air at the base of the windshield.

This also means that the only hot air that the intake sees is saturated heat from the engine, but even then probably only in the slower corners. Those cars spent most of their time over 90mph, and with the 20b sucking down air in huge quantities in a very short run from the filter to the intake ports of the engine, I don't expect that there is much time for the air to actually pick up much of the engine heat.

This is all something you CAN take advantage of with an RX-8, but it would mean a complete ECU replacement that would allow you to replace the entire RX-8 intake manifold from the air box/filter through the upper intake manifold, and then you would have to design your own upper intake manifold to get air from an air box there through a custom throttle body and into the different intake valving runners properly. Even then, you would probably still be down on power until you got your car on the dyno for a long time to figure out where the intake valving open/shut points now need to be, since they are currently tuned for the length of the stock intake and the dimensions of the stock intake manifold. Or you could delete the valving entirely, which would hurt lower RPM even more than the shorter intake already does. However, if you were going for absolute peak power.... it would work.

If I had a money-no-object build to get as much N/A power out of the Renesis as I could, this is one of the strategies I would leverage.

 

I've been "working on" my RX8 the past few days just to revert my attention from some negative **** in my life and also because I've always wanted to learn a little about mechanics... I've done some connector cleaning and lubricating the first two days, full battery removal and charge on the third day, and today I replaced oil and oil filter. Any other suggestions as far as upkeep go? Maybe something more advanced I can start before I go into work tonight.

 

Hi there, cool, I taught my daughter to do some mechanic work, warms my heart.
I don't know about tonight, but you can do some necessary maintenance work like changing the air filter, (kind of a PITA) and clean the MAF sensor.
Change the cabin filter if you haven't yet, that's pretty easy.

 

Changing the gear oil in the transmission and differential is pretty straight forward and doable for the novice. And frequently overlooked as maintenance. I recommend downloading the Factory Service Manual and giving it a read first. M A Z D A
Not many tools needed and inexpensive hand-pumps are usually available from the chain parts stores to pump the gear oil straight from the bottle/jug. Pick up a box of 7 mil nitrile gloves will help keep your hands a little cleaner.

 

Thank yall so much. But looks as though I'll be busy with a very unexpected deflood...Lol! Dammit. This isn't my first rodeo but this deflood is seemingly going to take a while.

 

Hi,
If it's flooded you have an underlying problem that caused it, usually bad ignition components, sometimes other things.
Have you had any CELs recently?
After you get it started, if you don't have a scanner or Torque app, you should take it to an AutoZone or parts store to get a free OBD scan to check for any pending codes.

You can also pick up a cheap spark tester (Looks like a spark plug) to check if you have spark.
If your coils, plugs, and wires haven't been changed in the last 30k, now would be a good time to do it.
That is a more advanced maintenance item, but it's really not very hard if you're willing to try.
There's a good DIY thread for it, and we'll be happy to talk you through it if you need help.

Also be aware that if you do have bad ignition components, it can damage your catalytic converter if you still have one, which in turn can ruin your engine.
It would be a good idea to get it inspected, or do it yourself.
Another job that is not very hard, and since you changed your oil, I assume you have jackstands?
There is also a DIY thread for gutting your cat if need be.

It's very important that the ignition components be changed every 30k to avoid damaging it.
Feel free to reach out for any help.

Good luck!

 

In keeping w/ what BigCajun wrote: Some coils used on the RX8 are crap and can go out in less than 20k miles, but many last at least 30K. Next coil change be sure to get OEM "C" coils: N3H1-18-100C or go for a BHR kit (includes spark plug wires) (Black Halo Racing Ignition System | Black Halo Racing) and never worry about coils again. They outperform the oems and will last the life of the car. If you're keeping your 8 a long time the price is worth it. Some People use Delco D585 ignition coils instead of BHR, but there is more work involved in the install unless you find someone with a kit.

Coil replacement DIY instructions: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...s-pics-178515/

Don't forget spark plug wires and spark plugs. I like NGK Laser Iridium Racing plug 6700 RE7CL .048 for the two Leading plugs (L = Leading) and NGK Laser Iridium Racing plug 6701 RE9BT .048 for the two Trailing plugs (T = Trailing). Some have mentioned Nippon Denso Trailing Plug- IRT01-31 Leading Plug- IRL01-27 but I haven't used them and the NKG's work fine and last well.

Spark plug replacement DIY instructions: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...-change-31872/ HOWEVER, contrary to the instructions the NGKs don't need antisieze applied ( see, https://www.rx8club.com/attachments/...sparkplugs-pdf ).

For something quick and easy, clean your MAF (Mass AirflowSensor) on the accordion part of the fresh air intake. To Clean: Note: >> USE ONLY MASS AIRFLOW CLEANER << that you can get at any auto parts store.

At some point you should clean your E-SHAFT SENSOR (ESS) (Eccentric Shaft Position Sensor): Tells the ECU (computer) what position the e-shaft is rotated to. Is down next to the front main pulley, which is a bit harder to get to. YouTube re: location, etc.: Try Clean As Is - I would not pull it out. If you can see it, you can hit it with brake cleaner. Just blast it with Brake cleaner for several seconds (with a suitable catch pan like a cookie sheet under it to catch what runs off), it should be pretty clean afterwards. If not, repeat. I suggest some form of eye protection for this and other situations where you can get foreign matter in your eyes. If you need to, reach in with a soft cloth, or with a soft brush to loosen stuff up, feel free to do that. If Really Dirty - one bolt holds it BUT bolt will BREAK, careful when twisting - if doesn't want to move, leave it until can get some lubricant to loosen it. If you take it off to clean, you'll have to reset the ECU's (computer's) NVRAM (Non-volatile Random Access Memory) (Clearing the eccentric shaft plate profile): engine off, key position to ignition ON; within 8 seconds of ignition switch ON pump the brake pedal 20 times, you will see the oil pressure gauge needle move to right of center slightly (nearer H)(some older models, like some '04, the needle does not move); after this, turn the key to the off position, wait at least 30 seconds, then start the car and idle for ten minutes. NOTE: This is for S1s (for 2004-08), the S2s requires a battery disconnect and then an immediate brake stomp (within 60 seconds). Then battery reconnect. Reset your traction control.

Some general info, and tips for your engine are @ https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...t-here-202454/ and https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...2/#post3411503 .

Well, the above should keep you busy for awhile. Have fun & good luck!

 

No, and no

 

lug tq is 105 ft lbs. and your location would be helpful.

beer

 

I just bought my 2005 RX-8 about 4 months ago (with only 29k miles on it!). I'm wanting to use my iPhone 6 to play music and I know there are a few different options.

Here is my question: If I buy this: http://www.therpmstore.com/store/p/1...for-Mazda.html will I be able to plug my iPhone's USB chord into the usb insert and play music? Or will it at least charge it?

I know there is the other xcarlink available here: http://www.therpmstore.com/store/p/1...for-Mazda.html but I'm still wondering about the other option.

Does anyone have an answer?

 

Don't forget the cabin air filter. They(2) are behind the glove box. It will give a lot more air flow, cut noise and make your ac work much better.

 

Bit of a dumb question. I was following my buddy's RX-8 today and noticed during hard shifts, blue smoke would come out of the tailpipe. It comes right when the exhaust goes "pop" and keeps smoking for about 3-5 seconds. More like backfire, only there's no fire, just smoke lol.

Is this normal?

 

Yes, normal. A rotary will even normally spit fire on shifts if it is catless. Sometimes the fire happens back up the exhaust pipe in the can though, leaving just a bit of smoke to exit the tailpipes.

 

I finally joined the 21st century and got an ipod touch and an ipad. Any recommendations on an app and/or OBDII wi/fi dongle that will allow me to read ECU parameters in real time, or preferably, do data logging?

I'm particularly interesting in getting lambda/AFRs readings. Are these possible to read in any apps? My Ultra Gauge is the very first generation and isn't capable of giving lambda/AFR's.

 

Since you when the Apple route, I believe all of the bluetooth options are not available? So you would need to look for an ELM OBD2 adapter that works on Wifi (confirm you can still use Wifi, I don't have any Apply products).

The best way is to search Amazon for it, since you can carefully check the user reviews to rule out any that indicate problems. One of the common problems of lower priced adapters is that the makers provide a "software CD" that is not at all needed, but loads a virus or malware onto the computer. This can generally be avoided by just junking the CD, but any seller that is willing to do that probably doesn't put much quality into the adapter either. So look through reviews to find something that is well regarded without those kinds of negatives and you should be good.


I don't know what apps are in the iStore for OBD2, or which one is best.