my seibon came with removable raip/drip trays. i dont use them because my 8 is a summer/nice weather car and it lets heat out of the bay

 

My Dumb Question : I have a series II rx8 with a bajillion kms on it and I'm buying a new engine/trans/clutch and what not and would like to start a thread where I can post photos of my progress and ask for advice and what not. I didn't want to post it in the wrong place. Where would be the best/most appropriate subforum for this?

 

diy if you document it propperly or a (re) build thread in the s2 sub forum would be my guess

 

Are they manually removable? So if it rained for example you would have to open the hood and start installing all the rain trays? Seems like it would have to be a nice weather only mod.

 

Since no one else chimed in, most are probably 4mm, some slightly larger ones may be 6mm. You can confirm this yourself with one of these:
Digital Calipers - Save on these 6 Inch Digital Calipers

A suggestion if you've never done it before, take care removing the old stock hoses. With heat cycles and age they can stick and break off the nipples. Also get quality thick-walled silicone replacement hose...not off Ebay for example. You might search around here for suggestions on proven sources.

 

Hi. 2007 JDM Automatic here. Bought cruise control buttons. Connected it to my car. The audio buttons work. The back lights Of both audio and cruise buttons work for the parking lights. But the cruise buttons themselves don't work. I've heard they're just plug and play. What am I doing wrong?

 

I have been searching now for about 6 months. I have a first generation RX8 and can't find anyone to assist with racing modifications. I found help with my suspension, but I can't find anyone to help me with engine work or exhaust work. I'd like to see titanium/alternative options for engine and exhaust, as well as, the stainless steal options (I understand cost differences). I live on the west coast. I know of PETIT racing in Florida, however they quoted me an extensive wait list and then another 2 months to do the work I asked. Hoping to keep it on the west coast either way.


Also, anyone know of a custom carbon fiber int/ext on west coast? Few places I found said they only do minor stuff.

 

For exhaust, contact BHR, I bet you will like what he is about to release. It's shaping up to be the biggest N/A power gainer ever made for the 8.

 

Any insights on possible price?

 

<<<@!1!@>>>

See dannobre's response, below ↓↓↓↓ [green plug is to the Variable Fresh Air Duct (VFAD) solenoid]. (Thanks dannobre!) As you may know, the VFAD is under the nose in the front of the car and only serves to reduce intake noise from air rushing into the air filter box and into the accordion intake, and you or someone may have disconnected the solenoid plug and may have completely removed the VFAD. The VFAD adds nothing to performance, and many think it's a hindrance. If the VFAD's still there and it's unplugged, plug it in and make sure the vacuum line is connected if you want the VFAD to work (don't know why you would do this unless the air intake noise really bothers you) or make sure the VFAD is open to allow air to freely flow into the air filter box (or remove the VFAD completely, capping the vacuum line at the throttle body). See, for how VFAD works.

 

Green plug is the VFAD solenoid plug...if the VFAD is removed it will not be plugged in

 

Sounds like your wiring's messed up or your cruise wasn't working to start with. You probably thought of this - but have you tried to contact the manufacturer?

 

Why would my car have developed a foul musty, dank smell when I use the window washer? Bottle etc is clean. Has been to the dealers three times to get the smell sorted and last time they tried to tell me it was the cat convertor that I could smell. I didn't believe them. First two times they couldn't find any reason or smell.
Just realised a couple of days ago that the smell comes a few seconds after washing the windows. Happens everytime. Have tested this theory on several passengers since and they all agreed the two are related somehow. Any ideas anyone? Spirit-R, 18 months on the road, 10,000km...

 

What manufacturer? Lol I got the cruise buttons off eBay. The buttons woek. I tested them using a multi meter (or whatever you call em). I thought they were just plug and play. I read on another thread that i have to earth them. I didn't know how to. My electrician said it has an earth line going into the connecter :/

 

Holy crap!!! A Spirit R?? In America??? :O Damn you're lucky.

Maybe the smell is coming from your windshield washer fluid? Or maybe it makes a foul smell when it hits the rubber on your wiper blades?

 

Continuing the custom racing modifications question I posted:
Thank you for BHR reference, I am looking now at their newest feeds. Originally, they couldn't do the custom stainless steel job I was requesting, which was essentially just cutting off the dual pipe and going with a single exit. I'm also looking for titanium options. I understand the price gap but my competitors all have it and I have the money. I know custom stainless work isn't the same as custom titanium work.

 

That's not what he meant, bhr is very close to putting am exhaust header+pipe system on the market with greater than 10hp gains. Honestly there's no custom job that will do better than the one they're about to release.

 

Any idea how long till you could order one, and get it in a reasonable time frame?

Not sure if he is building them now, or has just started the process.

 

Need to reset the Audio computer and program the buttons. Just like you can reset the AC computer, you need to do the same for the radio. Don't know the process, but I would look in the factory manual.

You could pull the neg and try using them right after and hope it finds them at power up.

 

Is it Titanium? Is it single exhaust with custom design? Does it focus on weight reduction as well as power gains? I can't find any information on this on BHR's site.

 

What are you people asking me for? There's a thread dedicated to it. I don't know because I have no interested in buying it.

 

No, stainless steel i believe. It's designed for street use, so that means durability is a bigger concern than weight. However, that being said, if you contact him (Charles R. Hill is the username here, charles@bhr.com) I'm sure you can discuss/workout having a titanium one built, as well as more details.

It isn't on the site yet because it is still pre-production, though I personally know 1 of the prototype testers that has been using it with great success. The dyno gains aren't published yet because he is looking for more independant verification from other pre-production units that are being installed on donor cars approximately "now".


The header he is selling is from the engine to the entry of the cat-back, it is not a 100% full exhaust, so any other street catbacks will fit on it if you want a single-exit tip. I'm sure you can straight pipe that cheaply or something. However, if you want a custom titanium one, I'm sure you can work out a custom header exit as well as a custom solution from the header exit to tips.


I'm only recommending it because of the gains that appear to be available are gains that you are going to want to leverage, and because I know Charles is VERY easy to work with, and open to custom solutions, so the street-ability factors being designed into his header could probably be deleted for you, while still gaining all the performance benefit.

 

Three dumb questions in relation to this --> FX HD Clutch Kit 4140 Chromoly Flywheel 2004 2011 Mazda RX 8 RX8 1 3L | eBay

1. Is this an acceptable replacement for stock? It's not pucked so thats good, but there is no "stage" value so I'm not sure how intense it is (friction coefficent) I'm looking for something comparable to a hd exedy clutch oem or stage 1 max. I'm not going to be racing that often but in the future I may be turbocharging so I'd like the hd just in case.

2. Yes I realize you get what you pay for but I'm installing myself and this has a 1 year 12000 mile manufacturer warranty so does anyone actually have any direct experience with this clutch or brand or company? They also sell Exedy clutches but it's almost double.

3. I assume I need to buy a counterweight from what I've read. Is there one specific to certain years... it says this flywheel fits and doesn't mention a counterweight but I don't know how to tell... can I just buy any counterweight or should it also be chrome molly?

EDIT: I may have misread this but do I even need one? I don't have an automatic and from what I've read the rearcounterweight may only be needed for autotragics?

Please don't tell me spend a few extra dollars on an oem or exedy. I understand that it's more reliable and better quality and I also understand I am incurring a certain risk by buying a noname. Money is very tight and as this was mostly an unforeseen development I am trying to make the best out of it. If everyone thinks I'm a fool perhaps I will reconsider and just look at picking up a lightly used clutch out of an 09 plus..

 

Why would this even be a concern? Everything under your hood should be waterproof, if it is not then it needs to be fixed anyeay.

 

Im just askin? Im assuming a car has a hood for a reason (like to keep water off of critical electrical components) So Im asssuming you wouldnt want water in the engine bay. Is this thought process incorrect? Why would the manufacturer include rain/drip trays if it didnt matter?