I know this is the wrong place to post but since I can't start a thread in the troubleshooting section I post here.<br />
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A couple of months ago I had my car in at the dealer because it was leaking coolant, and when they had a look, they noticed the drain plug was broken which caused coolant to leak.<br />
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Today I again noticed coolant was leaking from about the bottom center of the car. I haven't taken a look but is it plausible it is the same problem? Is there anything common that can cause the plug to break or am I just having bad luck? I'm about to take the car to the dealer tomorrow and have them take a look. If it's the same problem maybe I will ask them if they have the plugs in stock and fix the problem myself.

EDIT: Now a couple of hours later, me and a friend were checking to see how much I was actually losing but the dripping had completely stopped. Is it still worth looking up? I'm going to do a follow-up tomorrow and maybe have a peek under to see if it really is the plug that's broken.

 

If it is coolant, it normally only leaks when under pressure,ie: when the engine is warm. Are you sure it is coolant and not condensation from your a/c.

 

Well it could be, my ac had been running quite heavily at the time. But it seemed like quite a lot of fluid.

 

I have no idea what FL 88 coolant is.
Do you mean FL-22? If so, see my comment #3731, above. You can get FL-22 at your dealership or on eBay or Amazon. I only use FL 22, but have heard that Zerex Asian Vehicle Coolant (NAPA Part # ZRX 675130), Motorcraft Specialty Green Engine Coolant (it's premixed; Part # VC-10-A2), Beck/Arnley FL-22 equivalent at O'reilly's, and PEAK Global Lifetime are equivalent. I can't vouch for any of them. Of course some say any green coolant is OK. FL-22 is a little more expensive than brand X, but to me it's worth all the research as to what other fluid will or might work.

 

Good point. I would think you would not increase the valve pressure. Since the Rx8 valve starts bypassing around 60psi I would keep that psi for any replacement pump since that is what the system is set up for, and I think what you want is a higher flow rate to stop any fuel starvation while racing, not a change in system pressure.

 

Have you checked the plastic translucent overflow container on the left front of the engine compartment? Sometimes it's hard to tell from the outside, but you can just twist off its radiator (container) cap when the car is cold and see if you're losing coolant. If you're losing as much coolant as you say, the overflow container should be low to empty. Also check where the liquid puddles and see if it's clear water or slippery colored coolant. If you live in a high humidity area, your A/C can dump a lot of condensate water.

 

Since the other guy asked about FL-22, my 2007 AT came with FL-22. I have no way of getting it. It's not available where I live and I can't get it through eBay or amazon.

What are my options? Would any green coolant do? We have Caltex green coolant here.

 

Yes, thank you for your answers. I have come to the conclusion that it is in fact ac condensation. I checked my coolant level and it doesn't seem to have dropped.

 

Just out of curiosity, why can't you get FL-22 from a Mazda dealer? or Amazon or eBay? Or, if not by any human means, at least even the other substitutes I listed that others (not me) recommend (above).


Some folks have said any green coolant is OK, but not me. I don't agree because (among other things) many coolants eat the silicone between Rx8 engine parts, this has been scientifically verified, and some manufacturers have either switched gasket products or new car antifreeze because of this. Please read my previous two comments just above in this thread on the matter and click (tap) on the links and read those, too.

I don't know much about Caltex other than it's a Chevron product that is not approved by any Japanese manufacturer except Isuzu. A quick look at its data sheet shows a big variation in acidity from acid to base, and does not mention (or exclude) 2-EHA (2-Ethylhexanoic acid), so I'd like to know if it contains any 2-EHA or similar acid. Also, it's "approved for use by" list includes "General Motors GM 6277M (DEX-COOL® license)" and Dex-Cool is a "no-no" in my book.

Maybe someone more familiar with Catrex will comment, but I personally can't recommend any "green coolant" at any time, or Caltex at at this time.

 

Mazda is the only place you can get FL-22. It's their creation - or at least their branding. I've got a jug that I bought at my local dealer. I think it was about $13 for the gallon.

Funny thing is that when I asked for FL-22 coolant at the parts counter the guy looked at me like I was from Mars. After a brief game of charades it clicked and he said "Oh - the green stuff."

The owner's manual (at least my '06 manual) says to use elthyene glycol, not containing alcohol, methanol, borate or silicate. So read the label if you buy a generic. The only drawback they say for using generic coolant, rather than FL-22, is that it won't last the full 10 years.

Ken

 

Actually, you can buy FL-22 on Amazon ( for example)

and on eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/000077508E20...8c729d&vxp=mtr for example).

And beside not wanting to have alcohol, methanol, borate, and silicate, you don't want to have 2-EHA (2-Ethylhexanoic acid) (which manufacturers sometimes don't list).

 

Wow! And not much more than double the dealer price. At least the price I paid for my gallon, six or seven years ago.

Ken

 

Someone is living in the past. Actually, the eBay price is just a tad less than the dealer price where I live, and the Amazon price with free shipping is probably worthwhile for those who don't have a dealer in the same country or close enough to ship from a dealer cheaper.

 

Yep, ebay price is right in line w/ my dealership price about 2 yrs ago.

Its far more efficient to just buy the non mixed stuff (I think they sell it as "Long Life Coolant" instead of Extended Life") and mix it yourself.

 

I hope they ship to where I live. I will look around. The Mazda dealers over here don't carry FL-22 coolant. They use generic green coolant.

Moving on to more serious issues, what could this noise be?

I checked around my CAT for exhaust leaks and couldn't find any. Sparks plugs and wires are all good.


What could this be? A belt? A pulley?

 

Doesn't sound like a belt or pulley. Maybe the A/C compressor or air or water pump? Can you only hear it under the car? As far as narrowing it down, if you have a long screwdriver, pipe, or similar long shaft of metal, touch one end to various parts of the engine, etc., with the other end (carefully) in your ear, and you should be able to localize the noise as the shaft will act like a stethoscope. Let us know what you find.

 

My driver's side window starting acting up today. First it would go down, but not all the way down, leaving 1-2 inches of glass still above the door frame (no abnormal sounds during operation). After 2-3 tries of up and down, it went all the way down. About an hour later when I had arrived at my destination and rolled the window up, it only went up half way. Then it stopped responding to up or down, instead just making the occasional popping sound. I was able to get it closed by pulling up on the window glass while hitting the button - and when it reached the top it make 3 more disconcerting pop/grinding sounds.

From what I've read it's either the motor (possibly missing some teeth on the gear), the regulator, or if I'm lucky, some crossed up cables. Without a garage until next week, and daily thunderstorms in the forecast for the remainder of the week I'm not about to do any more testing. Does this sound more like a problem with the regulator or the motor? Just wanted to get some opinions before opening the door up this weekend.

 

RX8 Dave, it's not the AC compressor because it sounds like that even with the AC off. Yes it's loudest when I put my camera under the car. Seems like it's coming from right under the engine. Could it really be the air or water pump? Does an exhaust leak make a noise similar to that? I gutted my CAT and it's been happening after that.

The noise goes down as the car gets warm and the tempo changes with revs. When I rev it up to say 3000rpm, the sound is very unnoticeable. Sometimes it'll go down when the car gets warm, sometimes it won't. Sometimes I can't hear it at all. :/ it's so confusing.

 

If it comes and goes as the exhaust gets hot/cools off it might be worth looking into the gasket that seals the exhaust (header to cat junction).

 

What your saying is the exact problem and symptoms i had, it is the motor, I had to pull the window up and it would make a clicking/popping sound when it wouldnt go up anymore or down....I posted a pic of the problem somewhere here, the teeth in the motor are plastic and break off easily, when you pull up on the window and it continues thats where the teeth catch again....take care of pulling off the door panel, but once its off, the motor is a simple bolt screw on and off

 

I found some loose nuts where the manifold and CAT meets. Tightened them up. Will fire up the car next morning and check. I couldn't test it today as the engine was warm.

My car is a 2007 JDM AT and it started making a weird popping sound from the front when going over uneven bumps. I took it to a shop and they said it's the front sway bar end links.

Does anyone know the front sway bar end link part numbers for a 2007 AT? Would be greatly appreciated!

 

This is what I'm talking about

 

Have you tried tightening the nuts?

 

I agree with J8635621; try tightening them first. If you need a part number your local Mazda parts department have the parts diagrams & part numbers on its computer and they will look it up for you without a problem (at least where I am). If you don't have a dealer close, just Google "mazda parts" or "mazda dealer" with a major city in the USA like "Atlanta". Good luck - hope tightening works.

 

Originally Posted by Aston177
RX8 Dave, it's not the AC compressor because it sounds like that even with the AC off. Yes it's loudest when I put my camera under the car. Seems like it's coming from right under the engine. Could it really be the air or water pump? Does an exhaust leak make a noise similar to that? I gutted my CAT and it's been happening after that.

The noise goes down as the car gets warm and the tempo changes with revs. When I rev it up to say 3000rpm, the sound is very unnoticeable. Sometimes it'll go down when the car gets warm, sometimes it won't. Sometimes I can't hear it at all. :/ it's so confusing.

As poacher says. Also, if tightening the joint / replacing the gasket doesn't work, make sure the CAT is completely gutted, as residual loose insides can create a noise.