Ok so where is the thread about increase oil pressue in S1 RX8s? I remember reading a thread where for some reason they decreased it for the S1 for some reason, then bumped it back up for the S2. I've been trying to look for the mod but can't find it. :|

 

It's been a highly discussed thing. Many people are restricting the vacuum pull from the intake to the oil nozzles. It's been said that it increases the amount of oil the engine pulls. Obviously more oil doesn't sound like a bad thing when it comes to lubricating seals. There is also an upgraded oil pressure regulator that is made by racing beat, usually only used for FI There has been many many debates over this topic.. Continue to search and you will find it.

 

uhkhkv

 

the pictures u asked for sir ....

 

After running her a a bit (usually 30 mins) the throttle seems to get very laggy...
I know that when the car is cold, the throttle response goes into overdrive to help heat 'er up quicker, I'm just wondering if there's any way I can keep this throttle response for the entirety of the drive....

 

So I have a couple dumb questions, one of them being associated with owning my first manual...

1) How much resistance should I be feeling in the steering wheel? It seems like there is too much reistance from when I turn, but the PS is definitely not shot. Could it be that it is failing which is making it have more resistance than normal?

2) I've replicated this issue a number of times. When i'm in fourth and slow down and shift into third, it seems like I hit a wall. It goes to the right gear, I can apply a little more pressue to get it in, but it's too much for it to be normal. Possible causes?

 

On #2, at what speed and rpm are you downshifting?

Try double clutching.

Ken

 

Speed is usually around 25, double clutching is helping a little but still a little rough shifting.

What would happen is when I shift, hold in clutch, go from 4th to 3rd, and try to go into 3rd is when I hit the wall. I didn't try any rev matching so RPM would be 1K.

 

So, the CEL recently came on in my 8 and it turns out it's a p0420. I want to remove the cat elements from my rx8, so that I don't damage any parts of the car/exhaust/engine ( don't know much about this, just want to learn) by having a clogged cat. Any advice on the best way to remove it?

 

Remove Cat. Take a long pry bar and smash the catalyst. Turn pipe upside down and shake to get everything out. Inspect to make sure everything is gone. If you have a compressor you can blow everything thats left out as well just to be sure. reinstall pipe.

 

Awesome, thanks a bunch

 

Be sure to check if the rear section of the cat is intact.
If not, you may have chunks of it in your exhaust & muffler and might have to take that off & shake it out.

 

Good point Cajun.

 

Rev match. Unless you blip the throttle, double clutching doesn't do anything for a downshift.

Ken

 

I haven't seen any front bumpers that include the splash shields. Mazmart has the splash shields: MAZMART - Serving The Mazda Community Since 1980. Engine Under Cover / Splash Shields

...and I'd venture a guess they also have the front bumper.

 

I believe this question belongs here because I probably messed something up by being dumb... so here it is...

I went to replace the lower mounts on my Powertrix coilovers because the bushings were failing. I had also been hearing a rubbing noise while going over bumps at slow speeds so I figured I would try and find the cause of that as well. I believe I found the cause of the noise.

The springs on the rear passenger side are rubbing against the strut tower (the rear driver side does not show any signs of this happening.) There are also marks on the outside of the spring. It seems as though the springs are buckling and being kicked towards the front end of the car as they compress. The marks are on the strut tower and spring on the side facing the rear end while only the springs show marks on the side facing the front of the car.

I installed the coilovers myself about a year ago. The locking nuts were set so that the spring was barely able to spin. I was lowered to about 1.5"-2.0" below stock height. I had the alignment done at a shop about a week after installation.

Would any one be able to give me insight on what could be causing this?

 

Dumb question on doing my own compression test.

The tester I have holds in the pressure and has a release valve to vent it when needed. When I do the test do I need to have the valve opened at all times so the gauge dips all the way back down to 0, or should I leave it closed to keep the pressure built up?

 

In order to use that type of tester, you need to remove the check valve, video the face of the gauge with something that record at 60fps or more, record the cranking speed via OBD2 while you are cranking the engine. Then you take the video and slow it down a ton, and look for each individual face pulse, like face 1 will be 1, 4, 7, 10, face 2 will be 2, 5, 8, 11 etc... recording each face's value separately. Then plus the compression values plus cranking RPM and your altitude into a calculator to find out what your scores actually mean (roughly, this is a very crude way of getting your scores)


Or take it to a dealer and just have them use a rotary compression tester that does all this for you quickly.

 

Hey fellas ... My 8 has an agency power exhaust ... I still have the cat and I hear removing it frees up about 20hp for manuals like my 8 .... But I'm worryed about a change in exhaust noise, and I also hear it makes ur car smell bad ?? I LOVE the way my 8 sounds like it is now... a little drony high in the rpms but it still sounds lovely AND it seems 2 really **** off the meatheads who r all about there mucsle cars LOL ... anyway I was wondering if anyone new just how much louder it would b without the cat in place and if it would really make my car stink ???
Thanks

 

Yesterday had problems with car to start and thought that it may be flooded, so I asked my friend to help me to jump start my MT-RX8 and after we tried to do this on second gear the engine started according to sound and the rev arrow was moving, but when I tried to push the acceleration pedal nothing happened, and after depressing he clutch car died again, we tried to start it over 30 minutes but over and over again it was doing the same, so what might be the problem? The starter is kinda old and only gives 200-210RPM, but I don't think this might be an issue, the spark plugs are new and I bought those:

2 x NGK LEADING SPARK PLUGS (HEAT GRADE 7) RE7C-L
2 X NGK TRAILING SPARK PLUGS (HEAT GRADE 9) RE9B-T

And the Coils are D585 with Dwell table modification they too are pretty new, right now I'm going to unplug spark plugs and check for apex seals, but still looking forward to know what might be the problems

 

20 hp is probably a stretch, some gain will occur.
The best reason for cat delete imho is peace of mind knowing the cat won't clog & damage the engine.
You will get more fumes, but it's not unbearable.
If noise is a concern, the BHR midpipe is the best option, just a bit deeper & louder with no raspiness, it's what I have with stock exhaust.

 

Was flipping through the manual and it said that the oil filter has to be either removed or replaced with a special tool, couldn't remember which one... Is this true? I would just assume that it works just like any other oil filter, doesn't need anything special.

 

It can be a pain to reach, especially with the engine hot, so having a filter socket is useful for techs/shops that only see the car when it's hot. I had a filter socket, but the only time I ever used it for the 8 was giving it to a shop on the west coast at my mid-trip oil change, because they couldn't get the filter off by hand.

Otherwise, I always removed and reinstalled by hand without much trouble.

 

These fumes won't be INSIDE the car though right ... ?? Ied rather not smell gas fumes while driveing

 

If you're stopped at a light with the windows down you will notice the smell.