Nanwagner, YES there are a few things you should know. #1 DO NOT open the bleeder valve at all. Unless you have a leak or already have air in the system you really dont need to bleed the brakes. If your replacing the rotors make sure you clean them with brake cleaner BEFORE you install them. They come covered in Pre packing grease. Brake cleaner and a rag will take care of it. The non squeek you apply to the rear of the pad, use it liberally, just make sure not to get any ON the pad surface or the rotor surface. Any questions post em, i'll check this periodically throughout the day.

EDIT: I guess if you dont have the rear brake tool you could just open the bleeder screw and hand crank it back.

 

I always open the bleeder screws when depressing the calipers. I always heard you don't want to force fluid back through an unpowered ABS system.
Strictly anecdotal, but I've done it many times without problems as long as the screw is closed after the calipers are depressed.

 

Here's another. A couple pages back I replaced the plugs. Seems to have smoothed out the car a bunch. The previous owner didn't do plugs or coils so I know they haven't been done in at least 15k miles. Should I just go ahead and spring for coils and wires?

 

A failing plug can accelerate failure for the coil it's connected to, as well as the other plug in the same rotor, which in turn accelerates failure for it's coil. A coil failing will accelerate fouling for both plugs on the same rotor, which in turn will start accelerating failure for the other coil on that rotor. If a wire starts corroding or breaking down, it will cause the same problems in both directions.

So generally, when one piece starts failing, the rest aren't all that much farther behind usually. For that reason, I generally recommend replacing them all at the same time. The exception is if someone has the presence of mind and tools for testing everything properly, in which case the test results can change that.

 

guys between A/T and Manual does the rear stab axles/hubs have any difference?

 

does anybody have a service manual for an 05 at rx8 that I can buy and get shipped out to Chicago???? pm me

Posted From RX8Club.com Android App

 

If you are looking for a physical manual, you will need to post in the classifieds. Buying and selling isn't permitted outside of the classifieds.

Otherwise, you have use one of the online ones for free, like this one: M A Z D A

 

I know the N3Z1 starter is for series 2 and supposedly better? My car actually has that one. It feels sluggish though. Will the N3H1a be more effective?

 

Reposting:

You can clearly see the difference in size, the updated starter should be the same as mine. You are retrograding if you use the N3H1 and may take longer for your car to start. When you mentioned 'sluggish'; what did you mean, the car took too long to start or was the car having difficulties maintaing the RPM?

 

My starter is actually the n3z1. I just didn't knew if the n3h1a upgraded starter would be better.

It feels sluggish starting. I just did plugs. I'm going to do coils this weekend and see if it's better.

 

I bought mine on eBay, if that helps

Nan

 

It should bebetter with the N3Z1 since that is the upgraded starter. Do you know how much miles do you have on the ignition coils and how old is your battery? Have you have a chance checking your MAF and ESS if it's dirty, looked at the CAT if it is clogged CAT?

 

Super dumb question: On the ignition coil, does the nut that holds it down also ground it? I just did my coils and the last time they were done, apparently the mechanic lost a nut and just put a bunch of silicon on the bolt instead of getting a new easy to find nut. Dumbass! Anyways, I can't get the nut back on now because of all the gunk on the threads. Is a nut on there absolutely necessary? I can get back in the and probably run a tap down there to clear the threads of needed.

 

The coil isn't grounded through the bolt. .. so it just holds it in. ...

 

Ok so it's not super urgent to fix that. I will soon though thanks. I saw the metal around the inside of the hole in the coil and figured out might help ground.

 

A small metal brush should get rid of the gunk easily.

 

hey im having trouble finding out whats up with my rx8 im not what you would call good with cars the engine check light has come on and its juddering when I press the accelerator also it started first time but struggledany help please ?

 

Bring your car to any parts store like AutoZone or advance auto parts and ask them to read the codes for you. Let us know what the codes are and someone will know the right answers for you. Also, when you post again, be sure to include year, mileage, manual or auto, etc. The more detail we have the more likely someone (most likely RIWWP ;-p) will have an answer. Good luck!

 

i found a set kyb agx ajustable shocks with racing beat springs that lowetr and rx7 1.5". can i use those on my rx8? ive never messed with anything like that but want to do everything myself so i dont have to ask to many "dumb" questions.

thanks for your help

 

hey my power steering is going in and out...its been doing this for bout 2 months now....any1 have any ideas?

 

most likely your ps connector. clean the harness contacts and extend the overflow tube on the coolant bottle down through the under tray

 

we replaced the fuse tht is on the battery post.....it fixed it for like 2 days then back to no power steering on and off

 

what would extending tht do for it?

 

the fuse on the batt post is for the whole car, if its blown nothing will work. theres a diy thread on the power steering connector. its located on the fan shroud. the coolant overflow hose sometimes drips on the connector and it gets corroded

 

here ya go

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...g-pics-223713/