8 years, 100,000 mi extended warranty.
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Joined: May 2003
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From: Philadelphia, PA USA
So there is nothing actually wrong with your radiator?
My last car was a 1993 Nissan Maxima. I sold it to a friend, and it now has 240K miles on it. It has the original radiator.
Unless the radiator tanks break, it is very rare for a modern aluminum radiator to get clogged. Especially if you use distilled water for servicing.
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Joined: May 2003
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From: Philadelphia, PA USA
EFF That! You don't need a new radiator unless it's corroded or punctured! Belts are $35 and 15 minutes of work and hoses are around the same. It shouldn't cost more than $100 for the dealer to do belts and hoses. Skip the radiator replacement. If they tell you it's required ask them: "Why? My radiator was in fine shape when I brought the car in. did you guys puncture it?"
Bottom Line: Radiator is a lifetime part.
Bottom Line: Radiator is a lifetime part.
Power!!
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 4,412
Likes: 3
From: Sunny See attle
Below is the Retail cost from Mazda (with part #'s) for ALL the hoses and both of the belts:
N3H1-15-184A HOSE,WATER $17.54
N3H1-15-185 HOSE,WATER $26.71
N3H1-15-186A HOSE,WATER $24.27
N3H2-15-186 HOSE,WATER $24.75
N3H1-15-380A HOSE,WATER SUB TANK $39.09
N3H1-15-381A HOSE,SUB TANK $30.28
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total 126.64
N3H1-18-381A BELT'V' $20.60
N3H1-15-908A BELT,V $24.34
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total 44.94
126.64
44.94
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171.58
They should not charge you ANY more for ANY of these parts. This is Mazda's retail prices, the dealers pay less than this and there is a healthy profit margin already built in.
Then add maybe 2 hours labor @ $60-70/hr for the install of this stuff. ~$300-350 total.
Power!!
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 4,412
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From: Sunny See attle
Well, I agree and I disagree at the same time. either way, it's nice to throw the dealer a little bit of a bone when they went to bat for you and are replacing the motor. At the same time a $1000+ bone is retarded high. I think $250-300 to replace the belts and hoses, which probably should be done anyway should be reasonable. $.02
so i called the dealership and asked them what is the reason for the radiator to be replaced they said and i quote "because of the rotary engine gets so hot the radiators tend to get brittle and crack over time, so it recommended to switch it out when we do an engine swap" i mean i dont mind getting a new radiotor with the new engine just wish they would recommend me to swap it out rather than just say you HAVE to.
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Joined: May 2003
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From: Philadelphia, PA USA
so i called the dealership and asked them what is the reason for the radiator to be replaced they said and i quote "because of the rotary engine gets so hot the radiators tend to get brittle and crack over time, so it recommended to switch it out when we do an engine swap" i mean i dont mind getting a new radiotor with the new engine just wish they would recommend me to swap it out rather than just say you HAVE to.
It is an interesting theory. I have not heard of any such thing, but maybe it would pay to take a few minutes and search the forum to see if anyone has replaced their radiators for cracking. I believe that the radiator is pretty easy to replace without pulling apart large amounts of the engine compartment. My guess is that it goes out the nose with the front bumber cover off.
doin' the bull dance
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,174
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From: Quahog, RI
Just shoot a giant hole in their little theory by asking this: "If the OEM radiator is known to be insufficient for the heat put out by this engine, do you plan on upgrading to a better radiator?"
Don't let them BS you. And if you do let them, get everything they say in writing so the rest of us have proof positive that the radiator is KNOWN to be insufficient for this car. Thanks!
The problem with your line of thinking is this: The dealer has your car b/c there's an issue and it is currently undrivable. You have to ok the work they want to do or what? Wait for months on a lawsuit that has no basis b/c work hasn't even been done?
It boils down to this: You have to ok the work, get the car fixed b/c you probably can't afford to have no car or a rental for months. The court date and suit come AFTER the car is fixed, b/c then the lawyer knows what was done and can argue whether or not it should have been covered by the warranty. They basically have you by the ***** if they so choose.
(by you I mean the general anybody, not anyone in particular)
Don't let them BS you. And if you do let them, get everything they say in writing so the rest of us have proof positive that the radiator is KNOWN to be insufficient for this car. Thanks!
^^^i don't know personally, but i totally disagree w/ that. like he was saying, what if someone did all the work themselves? you really think a dealer could subpoena you for all the receitps of each quart of oil you've ever purchased w/in 8 years?? even so, even if you did have those receipts, they would just argue that you did it incorrectly or didn't do it at all and just poured the oil down the drain...that just opens a bag of worms w/ no apparent end in sight.
i think the rule of thumb is that they can only require you to prove maint. IF they can tell a certain problem CAUSED the failure. ie if they can visibly tell that you obviously haven't changed the oil in 10,000 miles and that is CLEARLY what caused the issue...then they would ask you for a log/receipt; if you can't provide it, i imagine they won't honor the warranty.
but come on, no way in hell they can actually REQUIRE you to show logs...they certainly might TRY to do that and hope the average person will wimper away, but no way that would really hold any water, especially not in court, and i suspect any dealer would eventually cave on that, again unless they could tell for a fact that your lack of maint. or misuse was a direct cause for the failure................
i think the rule of thumb is that they can only require you to prove maint. IF they can tell a certain problem CAUSED the failure. ie if they can visibly tell that you obviously haven't changed the oil in 10,000 miles and that is CLEARLY what caused the issue...then they would ask you for a log/receipt; if you can't provide it, i imagine they won't honor the warranty.
but come on, no way in hell they can actually REQUIRE you to show logs...they certainly might TRY to do that and hope the average person will wimper away, but no way that would really hold any water, especially not in court, and i suspect any dealer would eventually cave on that, again unless they could tell for a fact that your lack of maint. or misuse was a direct cause for the failure................
It boils down to this: You have to ok the work, get the car fixed b/c you probably can't afford to have no car or a rental for months. The court date and suit come AFTER the car is fixed, b/c then the lawyer knows what was done and can argue whether or not it should have been covered by the warranty. They basically have you by the ***** if they so choose.
(by you I mean the general anybody, not anyone in particular)
i bought my car in september of 2008 the dealership i bought it from was a gm place. they gave me no packets/info on warrenty for this car. i read that the 8year/100000 mile warrenty is covered for the car so that means if my engine goes bad the warrenty covers it right?
also my car is 300 miles away from the 50000 mile mark. i was planning on taking my car in to a mazda dealership and have the engine checked and everything is this a good idea? what is all involved for doing this?
also my car is 300 miles away from the 50000 mile mark. i was planning on taking my car in to a mazda dealership and have the engine checked and everything is this a good idea? what is all involved for doing this?
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Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Hunterdon County
i bought my car in september of 2008 the dealership i bought it from was a gm place. they gave me no packets/info on warrenty for this car. i read that the 8year/100000 mile warrenty is covered for the car so that means if my engine goes bad the warrenty covers it right?
also my car is 300 miles away from the 50000 mile mark. i was planning on taking my car in to a mazda dealership and have the engine checked and everything is this a good idea? what is all involved for doing this?
also my car is 300 miles away from the 50000 mile mark. i was planning on taking my car in to a mazda dealership and have the engine checked and everything is this a good idea? what is all involved for doing this?
i bought my car in september of 2008 the dealership i bought it from was a gm place. they gave me no packets/info on warrenty for this car. i read that the 8year/100000 mile warrenty is covered for the car so that means if my engine goes bad the warrenty covers it right?
also my car is 300 miles away from the 50000 mile mark. i was planning on taking my car in to a mazda dealership and have the engine checked and everything is this a good idea? what is all involved for doing this?
also my car is 300 miles away from the 50000 mile mark. i was planning on taking my car in to a mazda dealership and have the engine checked and everything is this a good idea? what is all involved for doing this?
1) 3 Year/36k bumper-to-bumper warranty
2) 5 Year/60k power train warranty
3) 8 Year/100k rotary warranty (I refer to it as this because any failure in Renesis is 95% likely to be caused by compression issue and will get you a new motor up to 8 years/100k miles)
You have:
1) 3 Year/36k bumper-to-bumper warranty
ok so that is over with since i have 50800 miles and its 2009 so its passed three years ok!
2) 5 Year/60k power train warranty
3) 8 Year/100k rotary warranty (I refer to it as this because any failure in Renesis is 95% likely to be caused by compression issue and will get you a new motor up to 8 years/100k miles)
1) 3 Year/36k bumper-to-bumper warranty
ok so that is over with since i have 50800 miles and its 2009 so its passed three years ok!
2) 5 Year/60k power train warranty
3) 8 Year/100k rotary warranty (I refer to it as this because any failure in Renesis is 95% likely to be caused by compression issue and will get you a new motor up to 8 years/100k miles)
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Northern California
The warranty starts when the car is sold the first time.
Lack of power is the main indicator of a compression problem, IIRC.
If you have a really good local dealer that goes out of their way to keep Mazda owners happy, they may spot you a compression check, especially since '04 model year is definitely the biggest % of victims to death by compression, even though it's probably less than 3% of even those cars, and probably attributable to first year 'teething' issues.
From what I've gleaned on this site, of the 3% or less of '04s that have compression issues, probably 75% or even more are automatics in hot climates.
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 76
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From: Wakefield, MA
I spoke to Mazda about this Coverage in Boston. Their called Liberty 128 of Mazda. yea well.. im only covered UPTO 50k.. ****** amazing.. I'm at 49,100. Just hit today. It's an 04 Model btw.
Bumper to Bumper is 4yr 50k, which ever comes first. The 8yr 100k is only for the engine. If that Mazda Deeler is telling you otherwise then print and bring this to them. http://www.racingbeat.com/pdf/rx8warranty.pdf . Also call Mazda NA on them
Bumper to Bumper is 4yr 50k, which ever comes first. The 8yr 100k is only for the engine. If that Mazda Deeler is telling you otherwise then print and bring this to them. http://www.racingbeat.com/pdf/rx8warranty.pdf . Also call Mazda NA on them
That will come in handy as I have two minor issues - gas cap does not 'pop' open using lever (I have to manually pry it open holding lever in up position) and center console is off its tracks.