imo i think having the rpm's set at 8,500 instead of the 9,500 is because the super charger has it's pro's and con's that said with every mod. performance wise you get a lot of pro and sometimes a few con's.it's a great mod. but untill all the tweaks can be made on several models at and 6sp alike your gonna have a few bugs some can't swallow.i would not mind the 8,500 as long as she kicks *** and take names i'd get used to the 8,500.

 

saves most of you guys engines as well.safty first i guess.(imo)

 

I was at Hot Import Nights in Phoenix Arizona and they made me go on the dyno! Organizers said because I still had stock rims on it was the only way they'd let me in the event with the other Arizona Mazda Club (AZMC) cars.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VjfrVwrCX1E

 

It is done for engine longevity and the fact that after 8K the torque is dropping off anyway. The Extra HP comment was not relevant and I it should be omitted from the record.
The Kit or your motor would NOT blow up if you took it to redline like you would in a N/A. It is also true that The Pettit Flash is rev limited to 8500 for the purpose of longevity.

 

"J" what were your numbers? It looked like 255? I could not make out TG 170?

Unfortunately for me... at the TriState Rotary Club Dyno Meet up in PA today, my by-pass valve "disassembled" itself we will say! Under boost (8psi@7200K RPM) it just went pop like a party streamer! I did not get to complete the run and after we super-glued that punk back together I was more in favor of making sure I would be able to drive it back 300 miles / 5 hours to VA rather than flat bedding it back. Needless to say... the super glue did the trick and I made it back with no issues and ragged it when I got in territory. All is still fine!
Ray and I did our homework on it at the meet as the device is a high grade plastic... but plastic never-the-less and the failure was less desirable... if you know what I mean?... duhhh! It turns out that it used on European cars and the particular unit that we are using is favored(not really) for SAAB Turbos. It is rated for 12psi. Well I can tell you mine failed it's QC inspection today.
On that note... Pat's BP Valve passed, but her run was not at all what was expected. Maybe plugs, maybe coils, maybe a not clean install of my maps from my dongle to the X, but the readings were not impressive and rather disappointing for the meet. Nothing that will not be solved, and nothing that killed motors. Once things are identified, we'll explain what was wrong.

The by-pass valve is going to be "upgraded" for sure, due to this failure, as it had happened once before on a dyno as well.

 

As for the RPMs, since I had accses to tunning gear I ran mine to 8500 and it was a whole different animal between shifts at that RPM. But I think hes also wanting people to put time on it to see if everythings solid. Not that its relivent to the reasons of the 8,500 RPM limit but if you use less RPMs it causes less wear and tear. Even though your motor can spin 9 grand dosn't mean theres no consicuences. More RPMs = more wear and tear on internal parts.

 

so we should all run our motors at 3000 rpm all the time ...... NOT !!!

 

186 torque, 253 HP. Rev-limited to 8000RPM.

Air/fuel graph was taken at the exhaust and I still have my cat.

 

Calculation, Weight increase of Apex seals as RPM increases due to cintrifical force. Also for every pass across the housing added in.

 

68.5 cm is the distance traveled buy an apex seal every revelution, theres a start. I just measured a bad RX-7 housing.

 

that causes excesive were, lol

 

ecsessive knowlege cause nasha,

 

http://www.hoshizakiamerica.com/mach...Class=Reach-In

beers

 

was very much tongue in cheek Charles - hope you didn't take that seriously

 

nice find but pulls a constant 12 amps

 

do you think you could make it fit????

beers

 

http://www.janis.com/p-stirling.html

Not sure on cost.

 

I can make anything fit, just gotta put it in a vice, lol.

 

cooooooooolllllllll !

beers

 

It would take a few of them but im sure you can pull charge temps way down. $$$$$$$$$$$$$ everthing needs it

 

Id like to buy one to test out but im afrade to ask how much they cost per unit.

 

Has anyone looked at the individual faces(combustion chamber?) on the rotor and speced the leading edges of the depression to the leading edge of the rotor? In the 12b and 13 b's sometimes there was some work to be done there?
Just a though/
Also---in pre mixing---when you are coasting (throttle off)less lubrication right?
Why doesnt our omp just work on a rpm basis---not on load, rpm, etc basis.
DO I need to change from stock plugs after the unit is installed?
OD

 

Na, just gap then closer to put less load on your coils.

 

well the kit should be here Thursday--already have my 40 page install directions

now to just wait on the int x module. Some kangaroo still has it.
OD

 

I've been trying to find dyno sheet from an actual owner after install but 10 minutes later and still no luck. Can anyone point me in the right direction?