Everything was an assumption and guess... that is the purpose of swapping one component at a time, trying to see which will result in a different outcome.
But the thought with the clutch was the stack height of the pressure plate.
If the disc is too thick and the stack height is adjusted to this thickness, the PP fingers would flatten after its installed on the flywheel, which could lessen the clamping force at higher RPMs.
The fingers get past the "zero-plane" and centrifugal force causes the fingers to draw in after they pass that.

 

Cool deal. So pressure plate is next weekish? Best of luck.

 

No... the pressure plate is part of a clutch swap.
You can't (or shouldn't) mix pressure plates and discs.
Remember what I was talking about above with stack heights being set to the disc thickness?

 

I got lost somewhere around the stack height being adjusted to the thickness of the clutch. Read it as something that was a user defined adjustment and not a manufacturer one. Learned something new today...w00t w00t!

 

Not feeling the love at the F-150 forum, ergo no responses to my posting. Wondering if you guys had some theories for what was going on with my new-to-me truck. I went to start it the other day, turned the ignition to start, engine did not turn but i got a loud screeching noise. It sounded like when you move the key to "start" when the engine is already running. Tried it a second and third time, with the same noise. Frustrated, I left it for the night, and tried it again in the morning. Started right up. Any theories as to what parts might not be working properly? Did general searches in the f-150 forum for "ignition" , "starter solenoid" , "starter" but could not find a similar problem. I did have cabin and dash lighting at the time of the problem. 2001 F150 SuperCrew 4x4 with 151k mi. I've only driven her 50 miles since getting it.

 

I know what you mean about the F150 forum... I have an '01 F150 SC cab 4x4 that I bought with almost 200K miles.
If the engine didn't actually turn (belts aren't moving), there isn't much else outside the starter that would move.
Next time... don't get frustrated and try to narrow it down

 

Eh, should have bought a Bronco...

 

I will try not to harrass you too much with my problems. Had to drive it today as I screwed around with my 8 last night, and now it wont start this morning. Luckily the truck did, though I had to enter through the passenger side as the motor on the driver door lock seems shot, and I could not turn the manual lock. WTF did I get myself into.... Hopefully I'll have the 8 fixed tonight.

 

Nate: The door lock could be a bent connecting arm in the door lock mechanism. Were you able to exit the driver's side? Do you hear any noise from the door lock motor?

Jon: any updates on the shifting situation?

 

I have not had a chance to look at it, but hope to soon (just need to wait for my wife to be out of the house. If she sees me fooling around with broken parts I will never hear the end of it) Yes, I could exit the divers side as the handle does not seem to be affected. When I hit the keyless entry I could see the plastic locking button inside pop up half way. I assumed my battery was dead, and went to use the key. Applied a reasonable amount of force but could not get the manual lock to turn. Noticed he passenger side was fully open, entered that way, hit the interior unlock button and the driver door button opened the full way. Started fine, drove to work, drove home. Noticed puddle of coolant forming below. "50 point inspection" my ***.

Yes, Jon, I would also like to hear about the status of the shifting problem.

 

"50 point inspection:

Lubrication system: engine filled with what appears to be oil
Cooling system: present.
Tires: 4
Steering: steering wheel in cabin turns - unconfirmed if front wheels turn
Brakes: truck did not roll away when parked
Transmission: automatic

etc.

 

You guys aren't following my thread
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-trouble-shooting-95/soft-clutch-pedal-upon-start-up-more-204153/
Update starts at post #24.

 

Jon - I'll be up at GL around noon if you want to meet us up there. Otherwise I can always swing by on my way home if you want.

 

Steve, how are you liking the MS3? When do we get to see it?

 

So you wanta build a racecar? Tear apart Doc's car next Sunday, after Halloween. Doc's house. 12 noon. Interior parts for sale......

 

I might be up for another "tear-down" Doc... though we'll have to actually be careful with your's

John- I've been seeing some of your posts.
Appears that you're starting to understand the ridiculous and pathetic troubleshooting mindset with many members on this forum.

 

Can't make that tear-down. Need to install a new rack for Jocelyn before I leave town.

Jon - Sometimes I question whether or not some of these people are just trolling with answers instead of questions.

 

So to bring this thread back from the dead, I got an interesting letter from Mazda NA last night. The official clutch pedal recall notice!

I'm just curious if anyone else received one of these little guys so far. And it turns out we can't file bogus clutch repair invoices from CND Industries because we're not a licensed repair shop (whatever that means).

 

I haven't checked my mail yet, but other members on the forum got theirs recently.

 

Nope, not me neither

 

Got mine today! I plan on getting a new one cause mine clicks occasionally...aka a crack has formed I'm sure. What time are you thinking about starting the "tear down"?

 

The real question is are they going to fix your current pedal with weld? Or replace the clutch with a better design? Or just replace it with a pedal that has the same poor design as the one they're removing...

place your bets

 

Same poor design as always

 

Got mine yesterday. If recall correctly the 2010's weren't included. Does that mean they've changed the design?

 

Probably just means they aren't breaking yet.