Agreed. That freakin tranny is killing me. Lot's of time still out there.

 

At the Boneyard one of you guys mentioned a website where you can buy used rotors to make into lovely table decorations. Can someone remind me what that was?

 

http://mazdatrix.com/p3.htm

Bottom of the page...they only sell them in white now. Might want to call them up...you never know...they might sell you one without powder coating.

 

Thanks, John. I can't imagine why they chose to powder coat them white.

 

They have these too... though they're out of stock right now...

http://www.mazmart.com/ItemDetail.aspx?id=553

 

can i haz clipz prz?

 

That's more like it. I'm going to keep an eye out for when they get more in stock.

And then I'm going to paint it white.

 

Now that my lug nuts have arrived...a whopping 2 weeks early compared to when Amazon said they would arrive...I will be pulling off my Speed6 wheels. Local buyers can make out on the same deal I did when I got them...$250 w/ tires. The set does not have TPMS sensors and the tire is a Kuhmo ECSTA 225/40r18, so the speedo is slightly off. Pretty sure all 4 tires were replaced after my accident so, I want to say they are around 15K miles, I will check though.

 

John- Finally had some time to look at that power supply for your Pinnacle Show Center.
Work is starting inventory, so nobody is able to break machines.

Think these boards are missing something:


Many components can't be tested with them installed, so I had to remove each one and test them.
Found a 220k ohm resistor that actually measured 2.7ohms... quite a difference.
Even though many other components tested good, I'll see what we have here at the plant and solder on new ones.
Though I should probably wait until inventory is done before I start grabbing components.
They'll likely stab me in the eye if they see me taking parts off a reel.

 

Glad you got some downtime Jon all I can say though is YUCK!

Any luck on your tranny problem?

 

I took the last week of Sept off so I could take my time dropping the transmission.
Will measure the pressure plate against an OEM one attached to the flywheel and see if there is a difference on how far out the fingers extend.
So basically... install the OEM clutch and drive it around to see if my issues disappear.

 

Can somebody help me with some forms for a boy scout website I'm writing. Form shows fine, but doesn't send the email to me. I'll have to send you the php file directly, won't load here. email me mark@drdomo.com

 

Wait.... your old OEM clutch or are you gonna pull mine off the blown engine block?

 

maybe I missed something...but you didn't change the pressure plate, clutch nor flywheel so why would they respond differently in the new tranny? Is it possible to not get the throwout bearing or the fork in the wrong position or something? Im lost...HELP!!!???

 

Systematically eliminating variables. Agreed, clutch and pressure plate worked fine until the trans was swapped... however, that is under the assumption that the clutch and pressure plate didn't screw up the old transmission in the first place...

OEM parts are the best baseline... but I'm sure Jon has better reasons than I just pulled outta my ***.

 

My OEM clutch was installed in TJ#Steve's car... so I was planning on using your's.

The release fork is clipped onto a pivot ball... so it'll be difficult to get that wrong.
The release bearing... it'll be REALLY noticeable if that was backwards.

You're assumption isn't that far off Steve.
Lets just say I've had a little bird chirping in my ear that has me/us wondering about something.

 

For those of you not friends with me on Facebook...

 

^ Rice...

 

I think i may have a wire Gremlin. In the past few days my Low Oil Light, my Ebrake Light and my Traction control light have randomly turned on while i was driving. The oil light caused me to panic dump a quart of oil in only to realize i had now over filled it and had it in the air tube...again >

Is there any point where all 3 of those lights would connected? Same fuse? Wire or anything? The lights all go out as soon as I turn the car off and turn it back on. Just looking for some suggestions.

Oh and before it is asked, no I didn't leave my ebrake on, bump the DSC button or drain all my oil and forget to put any back in.

 

Josh,

Did the lights go off? Or are they still on as you're driving around now.

Per the oil... what did you dipstick say? Its harder for it to lie to you.

Per the traction control light, did it stay on? Or just come on for a few seconds? Did you lose traction on not know it?

Same with the ebrake... did it stay on?

Its possible that your brake is getting hung up or is rusted on or something strange, which could have affected the speed sensor in your rear wheels causing the traction control system to malfunction all while your oil light was just on because its a crappy design with a crappy sensor...

I really don't have any idea, however.

 

Steve,

The lights stayed on until i pulled the car over and turned it off and back on. The lights disappeared then.

Yes the traction light was constant as was the ebrake light. While driving i tried to make sure my ebrake wasn't bumped up slightly but it wouldn't go down any further.

I was driving in a straight line down the highway so i really doubt i lost traction.

How would I go about checking to see if the ebrake is rusted and hung up? It sounds like the most probable cause especially since rust is what took out my oil cooler lines.

My oil level is now slightly over the full line since i added too much oil. Next time i'm just going to rely on the stick and ignore the light if it doesn't seem correct.

 

Well, the 04's have a TSB about the oil light coming on if you stay at highway speeds at the same RPM for awhile. So that's probably what happened there.

The ebrake light is a sensor off the ebrake handle itself. If you were dragging a rear brake, you'd feel it pull or maybe even smell it. I installed my rear pads wrong once and drove it around the block... both calipers were wayyy hot so I knew I was dragging them.

I would guess that its the ebrake sensor....

The one I have no idea about is the traction control...

 

Okay, if the problem reoccurs then I will try replacing the ebrake sensor. I haven't changed my pads, nor do i feel any dragging so I am going to rule out that problem. I do have 30k miles on my original 5 year old pads I don't suppose that would be causing them to stick at all?

Maybe the traction control light came on as a byproduct of the false ebrake problem? Like the car just assumed it was losing traction since the ebrake was pulled while it was moving.

 

The switch for the ebrake is a simple N/O switch.
It doesn't "communicate" to the PCM for any reason.
Simple circuit... goes from Instrument Cluster -> Switch -> Ground.
If you want to eliminate the switch, simply disconnect the wire harness and jump it with a single wire.
Then it'll stay off all the time (or it should).

 

Well if it is a simple switch that doesn't communicate with the PCM at all. Then I guess it doesn't explain after all why the traction control light would have come on too.

I wonder if it may be related to me just having work done on the oil cooler lines? I don't see why they would have had to mess with any of the wires attached to the traction control or the ebrake though?

I wish there was a simple way to test. Maybe I will never know, but as long as the problem does not occur again I suppose I don't care to much. I had autozone try to check if any codes were logged, and there were none.