LOL... not very often we all agree on something.
I was even surprised.
Megan probably laid it out the best... very well put.

 

Lol, it is surprising about the agreement there. Thanks Jon (I'm too nerdy for my own good lol)

 

I agree - great post by Meg.

The one thing I would add is that the new Bold and Curve 8500 use a trackpad instead of the roller ball. Picture a mini version of stupid slider thing they put on laptops to use instead of a mouse (I suck at using it, therefor it is stupid).

Since I'm responsible for forcing the Curve down the throats of all of our attorneys here (we bought nearly 60 of them), I hear about all the likes and dislikes, and I'm hearing that those that have replaced their old units with new ones that have trackpads really like the pads much better than the buggy trackballs.

Get the BB, Doc. I think I was telling you about how great they were when we were at Paladar, just before Joe dropped 20 oz of Brazilian beer in my lap.

 

FYI Megan, the Storm and Storm2 are at Sprint as well.

I have a BB Tour and love it. Aside from the trackball sticking every now and again it's great.

 

Gar! Missed a few details. Updated.. better? :P

 

You can't miss details though. That's it, I'm calling the CEO and having you yanked off executive support.

 

Oh you wouldn't dare....




Side note... any other takers for magnets? Tom, I'm not sure if my email went to you or not, but I can resend :]

 

Sigh.

AT&T has great cell coverage and very good all round coverage of the Cleveland/Akron area. I can't speak for the 3G coverage but I have edge access everywhere I have cell access and with WiFi its rare I'm not on the Interwebz with very good speed.

EDIT: They have shitty cell coverage in some big cities and just as bad as everyone else in certain boonies (better than Spring, wore than Verizon). ATT also has a big edge over the others if you plan on travelling out of country. My old ATT phone worked fine in Europe. Verizon phones dont.

The original iPhone still doesn't have MMS (picture messaging). Only 3G enabled phones got it. ATT had Apple do that to reduce load on their Edge network and Apple agreed because people email images with their iphones so they don't need MMS (tho I still wish I had it).

But the points RE: tethering and business apps remain valid. For business use get a Crackberry. iPhone email security is still not good enough for most workplaces whereas Crackberries make that their first priority. Texting on the iPhone is just as quick and easy as T9 but no where near as good as qwerty which is what is all the rage with the texting kiddies these days.

Frankly if tethering is your main draw I'd get a crackberry. iPhone is played out anyway.

 

If you go with a BB it doesn't matter which provider you go with. World Edition and Storm BB's will work internationally with Verizon as well. I think parts of South and Central America are the only exception. You have to make sure to buy add the international package before you go and cancel it when you return.

 

The Tour is international as well

 

For what its worth, my old "non-world" edition BB pearl on verizon worked in China.

 

So I learned today that the new BB Curve (track pad model with WIFI) has no flash for the camera...Why in the world wouldn't they design one into the phone, all of the other models have them and they come in handy...I'm not happy about this detail

 

hah im a mechanical engineering major, not automotive. and i got good news and bad news today,

good news: i got MAF cleaner spray and i cleaned the MAF sensor and swapped the coils out.

bad news: still didnt start, it turned over a lot healthier sounding, idk how to word it properly, but it just wouldnt start. i tried holding the gas to WOT and cranking it multiple times along with starting it normal, and it just wouldnt start. im hoping its only flooded, but when attempting to start it it sounded better than before we swapped coils. anyone any other way to deflood an engine without having to tow it to a dealer?

 

Sounds flooded to me. Are you getting a flashing cel?

 

i was when it used to start and run all crappy, now i dont know i didnt check, i didnt notice while i was trying to start it cuz its always on for the O2 sensor. i wanna say no it wasnt though

 

TJ- Tow-start the car.
1) Have you key in the 'ON' position
2) Hold down the clutch pedal and have your car in 2nd or 3rd gear (just not 1st gear).
3) Have a vehicle tow/pull your car to 10-15 mph
4) Pop the clutch
5) Once the car starts, press the clutch in since the other vehicle is still towing you.
6) COMMUNICATION IS KEY: Have a sign (light flashing your lights) letting the other vehicle know you've started and to start braking.
7) Once both vehicles have stopped, remove the tow straps and let your car run for roughly 5 minutes.

Now I've done this without another vehicle by letting the car roll down a slight incline, but you need to go fast enough and preferably no other cars on the road in case something happens.

 

hah uhhhhhmmmm..... yeah. couldnt handle the fuel cut-off method but im sure ill get this one no problem

just thinkin out loud here, i've push started cars before and what not, but wouldnt this do like horendous damage to your tranny and what not? its one thing to push a car and pop the clutch to get it going cuz theres no force still pulling it, but if a car is till tuggin it along at 10mph when you pop it isnt that really bad?

 

^Which is why you need to be ready to press the clutch back in once it starts (hence step 5 in my instructions above)

 

John- Found a good place to mount the Axxess iPod adapter.

I'll probably wait until next weekend to pull my HU out and swap the parts to this new(er) one like the temp controls.

 

somehow i see this going over bad.... you dont by chance happen to know how much it'd cost for a dealer to de-flood my engine would you?

 

You give up too easily
If the dealer only charges for a deflood, expected between $100-$150.
But most will say, "Well the starter is outdated, so thats $335. And you don't have a cat installed, so we need to charge $1600 for a new one. Spark plugs can be bad so lets add $195. Oh and since the coils are used and probably bad, why not add $200 for that. Lets not forget about the battery too! And once you recovered from your blackout, then we'll talk about the labor cost!"

Now if you're willing to shell out that kind of money, I might consider driving out to you and get the car started for 1/2 the cost.

 

haha well i really wasnt planning on goin to the dealer just yet, i just was wondering. but im limited on my options here, so far i got the following:
1) find someone to tow or push my car (very unlikely at toledo) although there is a pretty large hill on campus but it'd be a haul if we had to push it there.
2) if i cant get the car started, my dad has to rent a trailor and come pick it up with his Avalanche (same as when clutch pedal went).

-the problem is that since its not running i dont even know how we can get it on the trailor if he were to come with the trailor so that leaves having a flatbed come all the way out here and bring it to cleveland. so i was seeing if the dealer would be the more cost effective choice. im thinkin not though.

-so i'm in quite a pickle right now, that whole paying you to come out is starting to look pretty good haha.

 

When I first flooded my car, I had the original starter, battery, coils, and bad spark plugs.
It took over an hour to get the car started, but I finally got it.
I just never gave up and cranked the **** out of it.

Get some jumper cables and hook it to another vehicle as if you were jump starting your car, and keep trying to start the car.
Don't crank it for more than 10 sec at a time (though I've gone longer if the car sounds like it really wants to start).
It might take a LONG time, but its possible to do.
And once you get it started, give it SLIGHT gas (no more than 2K RPM) for a good 5 sec to keep it from stalling.
Then slowly let off the accelerator so it smoothly gets to idle.

Think you can manage this one

 

hahah tried it already. today after i swapped the coils in it sounded like it was soooo close to starting that my one buddy pulled his plymouth laser around and we hooked up jumper cables and did just that. didnt wait around for an hour though, id say a good 15-20 minutes but it still didnt start.

i only cranked it for a max of like 5-7 seconds cuz after id stop it'd reak of gas in my engine bay and i was afraid i was making the flooding worse, so id crank for like 7 seconds, then hold down the gas and crank a little while at the fuel cutoff, then go back to tryin to start it and so forth. all while my friend was revvin it a bit to help out. was that not good of me to do?

 

Honestly... I never hold down the accelerator pedal to deflood.
I would say if after a good 10 attempts it doesn't start, then do that once just to clear out the chamber and start again.
BUT... if the car really sounded like it wanted to start, you SHOULD NOT STOP... KEEP GOING... YOU ALMOST HAD IT!
Only if the "almost starting sound" disappears after a few more attempts should you "start over" and clear out the chamber.
And just keep on repeating until you get it.

...or save yourself time and grief and tow-start it.
Many people here use that technique for a deflood... I'm not just pulling that out of my ***.