Akron/Cleveland 8 Owners.
good ole' wankel spanking
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From: Strongsville, Ohio
Honestly... I never hold down the accelerator pedal to deflood.
I would say if after a good 10 attempts it doesn't start, then do that once just to clear out the chamber and start again.
BUT... if the car really sounded like it wanted to start, you SHOULD NOT STOP... KEEP GOING... YOU ALMOST HAD IT!
Only if the "almost starting sound" disappears after a few more attempts should you "start over" and clear out the chamber.
And just keep on repeating until you get it.
...or save yourself time and grief and tow-start it.
Many people here use that technique for a deflood... I'm not just pulling that out of my ***.
I would say if after a good 10 attempts it doesn't start, then do that once just to clear out the chamber and start again.
BUT... if the car really sounded like it wanted to start, you SHOULD NOT STOP... KEEP GOING... YOU ALMOST HAD IT!
Only if the "almost starting sound" disappears after a few more attempts should you "start over" and clear out the chamber.
And just keep on repeating until you get it.
...or save yourself time and grief and tow-start it.
Many people here use that technique for a deflood... I'm not just pulling that out of my ***.
Its injecting gas into a chamber with excessive gas in it already.
Trying to add even more is definitely not going to work.
Only give it slight gas ONCE it starts and be prepared for it to sound horrible... well kinda like it did at your house before... so you should be used to it by now

Now if you want, you can try spraying starter fluid through the throttle body to help ignite the gas.
Or better yet, spray it into the maintenance ports on the lower intake manifold.
That might help.
good ole' wankel spanking
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From: Strongsville, Ohio
It would make it more difficult to start.
Its injecting gas into a chamber with excessive gas in it already.
Trying to add even more is definitely not going to work.
Only give it slight gas ONCE it starts and be prepared for it to sound horrible... well kinda like it did at your house before... so you should be used to it by now
Now if you want, you can try spraying starter fluid through the throttle body to help ignite the gas.
That might help.
Its injecting gas into a chamber with excessive gas in it already.
Trying to add even more is definitely not going to work.
Only give it slight gas ONCE it starts and be prepared for it to sound horrible... well kinda like it did at your house before... so you should be used to it by now

Now if you want, you can try spraying starter fluid through the throttle body to help ignite the gas.
That might help.
and i do have a question about the CEL, steve asked if i was still getting a flashing CEL today after the coils were swapped out, would that show up if the key is just turned to "ON"? or would it do it while im trying to start it? cuz it obviously cant do it while its running currently.
Simple as that.
and i do have a question about the CEL, steve asked if i was still getting a flashing CEL today after the coils were swapped out, would that show up if the key is just turned to "ON"? or would it do it while im trying to start it? cuz it obviously cant do it while its running currently.
good ole' wankel spanking
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From: Strongsville, Ohio
Just spray it through the maintenance ports on the lower intake manifold.
Simple as that.
Simple as that.
Don't worry about what codes its generating, its obviously going to throw codes because the car isn't starting.
good ole' wankel spanking
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From: Strongsville, Ohio
hah thanks Jon, is it necessary to remove the resovoir to get to it? and i was reading your windshield washer deflood DIY, would that be easier for me to do since i dont know anyone to tow start my car in toledo?
There are only two nuts at the top of the reservoir, then it lifts up and out of the way.
Why not spend the extra 10sec to make your job easier.
You would already have access to the maintenance ports at this time.
Just remember that the vacuum caps need to be installed if the car starts.
good ole' wankel spanking
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From: Strongsville, Ohio
If spraying the starter fluid doesn't work (and give it a good couple dozen times before giving up) then try it if you feel comfortable.
You would already have access to the maintenance ports at this time.
Just remember that the vacuum caps need to be installed if the car starts.
You would already have access to the maintenance ports at this time.
Just remember that the vacuum caps need to be installed if the car starts.
good ole' wankel spanking
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From: Strongsville, Ohio
okay got it, i feel like we've talked about so many aspects of this that if i cant get this damn thing to start on monday i should just forget its there. although my parents did sit me down for a nice chat tonight "advising" me to sell the car once its running again because its a "money pit". there tryin to reason with me to sell it first since i bought the car on my own, but sadly there gonna get the final say since its not in my name cuz i was a minor when i bought it. i need to show em my car isnt just good for breaking when your in a hurry.
The thing is you have an '04 and all the common issues that came with it
Once you resolve those issues, its not that bad.
With my new battery (Optima), upgraded starter, upgraded coils, and normal maintenance such as oil changes and spark plugs, I haven't had any issues with the car.
Once you resolve those issues, its not that bad.
With my new battery (Optima), upgraded starter, upgraded coils, and normal maintenance such as oil changes and spark plugs, I haven't had any issues with the car.
Last edited by Jon316G; Feb 20, 2010 at 01:03 PM.
good ole' wankel spanking
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 375
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From: Strongsville, Ohio
The thing is you have an '04 and all the common issues that came with it
Once you resolve those issues, its not that bad.
With my new battery (Optima), upgraded starter, upgraded coils, and normal maintenance such as oil changes and spark plugs, I haven't have any issues with the car.
Once you resolve those issues, its not that bad.
With my new battery (Optima), upgraded starter, upgraded coils, and normal maintenance such as oil changes and spark plugs, I haven't have any issues with the car.
The devil made me do it
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From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jon - Here are some of the pictures from the DIY I posted about the install I did. I can tell you that I have moved the Axxess box from this location already to the section between the HU and glove box because of overheating problems I was having with the unit.
http://devilboi.crackmonkey.us/e107_...s.php?album=73
http://devilboi.crackmonkey.us/e107_...s.php?album=73
is anybody having a problem with their hood warping? i have been noticing more and more warps in my hood. some look like it was hit with a fist or hail and others look like its wrinkling. only thing i can think of that might be causing this is that i dont have a heat shield on my hood and the heat from the engine is causing it warp? (thin metal getting frozen in the snow then heated by the engine repeatedly?)
Will have to rethink this, or maybe use conformal coating on the circuit board to help with the temp changes.
Thanks!
Tj. Dibs on your momo wheels if you have to get rid of the car. Lol.
Sure, a honda would be easier. But jon raises a good point, this can be very reliable, but it takes some work.
I see your parents point because I flooded my car real bad and was late to work. Jon had to come down and help for 10 min. But now I've learned and can deflood better than new orleans.
Sure, a honda would be easier. But jon raises a good point, this can be very reliable, but it takes some work.
I see your parents point because I flooded my car real bad and was late to work. Jon had to come down and help for 10 min. But now I've learned and can deflood better than new orleans.
Hey you boyzzz.
Well I just finished putting the front O2 sensor I got from Steve last week. I'm happy to report that after 4 driving cycles my CEL has not come back on! Thanks a ton Steve!
I also did Jon's reset (tapping the brake pedal fast until the needle sweeps) just for good measure...
Now if I can just get the auto leveling headlight warning light to shut off with out spending $550 for the sensor...
Anyone know what wire to clip to get that light to turn off??
Well I just finished putting the front O2 sensor I got from Steve last week. I'm happy to report that after 4 driving cycles my CEL has not come back on! Thanks a ton Steve!

I also did Jon's reset (tapping the brake pedal fast until the needle sweeps) just for good measure...
Now if I can just get the auto leveling headlight warning light to shut off with out spending $550 for the sensor...
Anyone know what wire to clip to get that light to turn off??
Last edited by Stig; Feb 20, 2010 at 02:07 PM.
Nice work stig. Have someone with long skinny arms to get to that wiring harness?
I have my autolevling sensor light on, and I think brian does too. Its caused by water being trapped in a poorly designed wiring harness. It can be cleaned or hardwired or replaced.
I have my autolevling sensor light on, and I think brian does too. Its caused by water being trapped in a poorly designed wiring harness. It can be cleaned or hardwired or replaced.
I wish! I managed to get my arms back in there but it was a tight squeeze for sure. Only one cut on my wrist and bit of cursing and I got the job done. It helped to see on your donor where the O2 came off the wiring harness. Now I have to replace the same thing on my wife's Lexus but it is right up front so easy easy easy compared to the 8 

I tried posting this in the main "exterior" forum, got no responses.....
I picked up a used mazdaspeed rear bumper/diffuser, but its missing the 3 green brackets. Unfortunately, the Mazda install paperwork (from DIY section) only calls it out as "bracket A" and "bracket B", making it impossible for the local dealership <cascade> to find for me.
Any ideas on how to source these parts given they dont appear to have a part #?
Any ideas for a "work around" to these missing parts? (I got the other misc fasteners and dbl sided tape from autozone).
mazdaspeed rear underspoiler install guide. (edited)
http://www.hi-impact.org/ryang/modif...8_bodykit.html
Thanks,
Nate
I picked up a used mazdaspeed rear bumper/diffuser, but its missing the 3 green brackets. Unfortunately, the Mazda install paperwork (from DIY section) only calls it out as "bracket A" and "bracket B", making it impossible for the local dealership <cascade> to find for me.
Any ideas on how to source these parts given they dont appear to have a part #?
Any ideas for a "work around" to these missing parts? (I got the other misc fasteners and dbl sided tape from autozone).
mazdaspeed rear underspoiler install guide. (edited)
http://www.hi-impact.org/ryang/modif...8_bodykit.html
Thanks,
Nate
Last edited by ngill33; Feb 21, 2010 at 08:17 AM. Reason: thread not working
Nate,
None of us have body kits really, so its not an issue we've really encountered before.
However, having removed the rear bumper before, I can say that the system of fasteners and such can't be too hard to manipulate to work if you have some extra clips or hardware.
I think what you're going to have to do is just see how well it attaches as it sits right now, and then come up with another way to fasten the loose spots.
Your link was broken, so I don't exactly know what you're talking about also.
Plus that 3M double sided tape is strong stuff... I bet you could get away using that.
But don't get that method confused with doing it "the right way".
None of us have body kits really, so its not an issue we've really encountered before.
However, having removed the rear bumper before, I can say that the system of fasteners and such can't be too hard to manipulate to work if you have some extra clips or hardware.
I think what you're going to have to do is just see how well it attaches as it sits right now, and then come up with another way to fasten the loose spots.
Your link was broken, so I don't exactly know what you're talking about also.
Plus that 3M double sided tape is strong stuff... I bet you could get away using that.
But don't get that method confused with doing it "the right way".
Nate,
However, having removed the rear bumper before, I can say that the system of fasteners and such can't be too hard to manipulate to work if you have some extra clips or hardware.
I think what you're going to have to do is just see how well it attaches as it sits right now, and then come up with another way to fasten the loose spots.
Plus that 3M double sided tape is strong stuff... I bet you could get away using that.
But don't get that method confused with doing it "the right way".
However, having removed the rear bumper before, I can say that the system of fasteners and such can't be too hard to manipulate to work if you have some extra clips or hardware.
I think what you're going to have to do is just see how well it attaches as it sits right now, and then come up with another way to fasten the loose spots.
Plus that 3M double sided tape is strong stuff... I bet you could get away using that.
But don't get that method confused with doing it "the right way".
i was able to get that link to work. after looking at those brackets they are pretty simple to make and could do them at my work if you can give me the measurments on them. or you might be able to find something close enough to them at home depot/lowes and modify them as needed


