so here's what I know:

put it all back together. checked every connection, ground point, plug, wire, hose, screw and tube which I could get my hands on.

started it. disconnected the battery while running. no problem. gave it about a minute of idling on the alternator only. no problem. revved up the engine to 1k, 2k, 3k, 4k and 5k respectively and it never stalled or dropped under 700-800 rpms. backed up and pulled fwd a couple times and nothing. drive it around my circle. it went fine. decided to take it and really give it some love. hit rt 21 south and opened her up, redlining 1,2 and 3rd. put 15 miles on it and not one hiccup.

my only conclusion is that two completely unrelated things happened. Yes, the other battery did indeed die. that was without a doubt. autozone tested it and it had less than 2 volts charge to it. then I parked it for the winter and I think that probably the water separated from the fuel while it sat and that's what gave me fits when I tried to get it going the other day. it ran fine and sounded great the whole time.

I dunno. maybe she just needed attention. wanted my hands all over her. she's happy now though. see what happens from here.

 

Does anyone know if I can run 275's with stechs without rubbing issues?

 

What wheels? Offset? And 275 front and back I assume?

When my SSV was stuck, It would start and run because it was in warm up mode. When it warmed up, it would then stall. It would also do this when I unplugged the battery and the fuel trims had to be relearned.

It could be some form of perfect storm, but just something to keep in mind.

 

They are 18x9.5 with +45...I bought them from the guy around here that used to have the Green 8 but he was running htechs and I want the stechs

 

it's possible but keep in mind, i put 15 miles highway + 5 miles neighborhood driving just to put the car under different types of stress and nothing phased it.

the one thing i do want to check though is the fuel filter. Just want to make sure it's clean after having run potential gunk fuel through it.

 

Upgrade your shocks while you do it. From what I've read the s-techs blow your stock shocks pretty quick. I upgraded mine to koni's so I never experienced it myself. Depending on your mileage you'd want to do that anyway. Mine had 53k on the stock shocks and one of the fronts was leaking Steve told me.

On another note I had a lovely day at the ER yesterday, wife has kidney stones and they had to break them up. Of course that took all day since the junkies needed their vicodin fix first....

I don't know about the wheels and tires. Might be in the will it fit thread in wheels, tires and suspension subforum.

 

Upon closer examination, yours were just dirty. Its normal for the shock piston to have some oil on it, but they weren't leaking, yet.

 

Yeah I'm going with the same setup and I was too lazy to search for the answer. RPF1's of that size and stechs and koni's are pretty common from what i understand i just figured someone would know.

 

<crickets>

 

So perrrty. I know the evo wing..... Lol

 

That's an amazing amount of body roll for not being on the stock suspension anymore.

For comparison, Megan driving my car in the same spot

 

I was looking at that too. I was thinking lack of stronger sway bar like yours? I looked at last years pics and roll is a lot less.

 

In this one from last year I'm already in transition to the right.



At school last year. Look at front right wheel. Much better now.

 

Looks about the same for me. But then again, you can't really compair last years pictures with this years pictures like you are. Two different courses, two different angles, and most importantly neither turn required the same about of steering input.

The head on dry shot from last year was a set of offsets. The picture from this year was a 90 degree turn with more sustained cornering. Apples to oranges.

I was just merely stating you car has an amazing amout of body roll, almost the same as stock. Which would make sense because the springs you are running are pretty soft. Swaybars will help with body roll and mid corner handling, but I would suggest to learn to drive first before tossing more money at the car.

Like I tell every rookie every year at the school when they ask what they should buy to make them go faster: Learn to drive, THEN mod the car. Steve is just about the only person that has ever listened to me, because people think throwing parts and money at the car will make them faster and they never listen to reason.

 

Oh don't get me wrong, I'm not buying any other performance mods for a while. What you said was absolutely right. I'm too inconsistent and I'm not good enough to get the times the car is possible of, as is. the only thing I need to do is pads since they're close to done. Other than that it's all non performance stuff. I'm focussing on my skills and learning to understand the car and the course better i.e. brake points and smoothness like you said. Once I get the hang of it and I can consistently lap good times then I'll look at improving the car again but that probably won't be till the winter.

 

Danny - correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't your S-techs a progressive spring anyway? So, the spring rate increases the more the spring is compressed. So, being that its non-linear, its possible your initial spring rate is softer than stock. But again, being a progressive spring makes it difficult to tell what's going on.

To again parrot what Brian said. If the car felt good last weekend, leave it. Learn how to drive it as it is. Pretty much adjust tire pressures only at this point, and even then, try not to adjust them after every run.

For the record - I didn't listen until I got the s2000. I did the same garbage Danny is doing: used tokico shocks and H-techs, sway bars, wheels and tires and brake pads and lines. Granted, I had a few more events under my belt, but still. Same overall pattern. Sometimes you gotta learn the lessons for yourself.

On this topic: Danny, if you want to see improvement this year, get your SCCA membership and run with other regions also. Or at least run with the corvette club when they get their schedule posted. The more events, the better. Being in Canton, Steel Cities and Ohio Valley Regions are less than 100 miles away.

You'll see semi-consistent improvement by racing once every other week with NORA, yes, but you'll only see really one type of course, and one driving surface. Which will mask bad habits that you aren't even aware of because you're so used to the usual tricks the NORA courses throw at you.

 

Corvette club schedule:
Locations TBA

Saturday, May 12 - AutoX #1
Sunday, June 24 - AutoX #2
Sunday, July 15 - AutoX #3
Sunday, August 12 - AutoX #4
Sunday, September 9 - AutoX #5
Saturday, September 29 - Wax-Rallye-Race Weekend Day 1 - Corvette Show & Rally
Sunday, Sepember 30 - Wax-Rallye-Race Weekend Day 2 - AutoX #6 & Corvette Show

Also... fat guy little car... Fat Guy in a little carrr...

 

Thanks Steve I appreciate it. Is Nora hosting the Corvette club stuff too? Are you going to Columbus or steel cities this year because I'll tag along. would be fun to try different areas.

Car felt really good. So much better than last year. The rear was amazing. Felt so planted. The front though I had push. But like Brian said I was overdriving the car too.

 

NORA doesn't host corvette club. Corvette club hosts corvette club. they do have events at geauga lake though. And they also use the old Ford Econoline plate in Avon or someplace way the hell east on the lake.
their courses are ironically not that well suited for corvettes. Small, tight (giggity) gates with some high speed sweepers, you'll see some chicago boxes too, which is fun as NORA doesn't do those often.

And yes, I'm planning to make as many of the other regions events as I can. Their schedules are post on their respective SCCA sites.

 

Chicago boxes?

 

I've helped enough today. Google can answer your question.

So instead you get this.

Chicago Box:

 

Lmao. I deal with Chicago crap traffic on an almost daily basis. Don't want a box of Chicago lol.


Off to google.

 

NORA has Chicago boxes, you just don't recognize them because we don't put all the extra cones out.

 

Did you know that what is now called Chicago boxes, was originally called a Garage here. You go in one "door" and out the other "door". I think it got the Chicago name when we included them in the course design when we had the Nationals here in the mid 80's.

 

Ok apparently I need more setup help than I thought. I downloaded a pdf on my phone searching for Chicago boxes about autocross. What I read was this that puzzles me, if you have understeer or push, INCREASE tire pressure at the front. I thought that if you have push you decrease it because the tire gets softer and you increase the contact patch.... Can someone explain how increasing pressure reduces understeer?