EEEWWWW that thang in nasty looking, maybe for $150 but not $450. And yes I was in your neck of the woods and Jon's too.

 

Good find doc, I've been waiting for a rebate. . . rumor is in the stx thread that dunlop is coming out with 265/40/17 star specs. . . So, that extra 10mm in the rim width will become a factor (for better drivers. . . not for me per say)

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TJ: The important thing is that your clutch is fixed with a quality Vyndictive OEM replacement.

I'd change coils and wires... if you want, I can ship you the donors old coils+wires which should be good enough to get you home if you can get your hands on some basic tools to do the swap in the parking lot.

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Jon, we're still on for this weekend? correct? We gotta get this engine compression tested (the 21st)

 

We're still on for the 21st.
My only problem with compression testing this motor is that you should (according to the directions) have it warmed-up first.
But, if the results come out good even on a cold engine, that'll be good news.

 

Option 1: heat gun
Option 2: torch

Done.

Next?

I would assume the problem would be hard wiring a starter motor to it. But I suck at electrics, so that may be why.

 

Shouldn't be a problem.
Hook the positive to the starter and the negative to something like the alternator bracket.
And the starter solenoid only needs 12V (not from battery because of lower amperage) so I can bring my transformer that I use to test small motors and solenoids.
I'll look through the electronics diagram tonight and verify I didn't miss something.

I'll bring my battery for the compression tester... just in case

 

Option 3: Check out the picture of that dirty Borla and look in the back ground. There is a propane tank on its side hooked up to one of those 'jet' heaters right next to a gas can.

[quote=Vyndictive;3430813]Option 1: heat gun
Option 2: torch
quote]

 

15 min with metal polish and that borla would look brand new. . . why the seller didn't do this before pictures is beyond me.

 

Right!? Heck even a power washer would have helped.....

 

haha yeah well the clutch is workin out better than original, so thats a good thing i suppose.
and how much would you want for those coils? if you ship em to me i could swap em out, hardest part will be finding tools = / but im sure the guys in my fraternity could help me out with that. i'm pretty sure i remember how to change my coils out, i dont remember it eing anything more than a couple screws and clips.
but i have brand new bhr wires from when we checked the coils and plugs at jon's house. lol since i had 2 wires from my car and 2 from like... a cobalt or something.

 

TJ- Only one nut holds each coil to the bracket.
Disconnect the ignition wires, remove the nut, remove the coil from the bracket, disconnect the electrical connector for the coil.
Install in reverse order.
Do one at a time so you don't mix them up... unless you are confident you remember the order

 

i hate this F**** snow!!! came within a few inches of hitting my house with the 8 last night trying to leave to go to a party. just thought i would vent for a sec...

 

No rumor, they're listed at tirerack.

Can I get 255s on an 8 inch wheel. or am I stuck at 245??

 

Doc... I'll jump in before Brian yells at both of us.

Brian was running the 255/40/17 last year on Jamie's wheels.

I have asked him this question at least 14 times to make sure. He assures me that 255/40s will fit on the 17x8s i bought.

However, tirerack states that the minimum wheel width for the 255 is 8.5. . .

Brian vs. Tirerack. . .

 

That's what I read too. So I was wondering. Plus I'm on 18" wheels. I wonder if that makes a difference....

 

Just thought I would post a picture of a headless 8 (before it folds up like a book according to some of you.)

Guy in Toledo needed a roof for a very interesting project. He is going to use the roof section as his template to make a full carbon fiber roof.

All I had to do saw saw the bitches head off!

Which I did in typical Steve fashion (by breaking the back window after roughly 2.5 hours of slow tedious separation of the window sealant and carelessly sawing right through the front glass!)

 

I can't imagine it would. . . but it might be worth a call to conrads or other tireplace to make sure they can do it. You know?

. . . after you get through all the, "Durrr, its not recommended, durr" nonsense.

 

Hey, how can I get this pump removing tool to you

 

It can wait. . . I have plenty of other parts people don't want. Besides... I'm still picking pieces of the rear window out of my hair, the last thing I need to do is think I can work on removing the fuel system by myself.

Or. . . Meet next friday?

 

Actually Friday might work if I can do a driveby. I'm pulling a trailer down and going to a boy scout campout near Canton Friday night. Maybe I can meet you near the freeway early in the evening around 715or30

 

That works, I'll be around.

 

Hey...the eBrake is still engaged!!!! What were you thinking Steve...you knew you had to disable that before it would fold!

 

^The ebrake cable is the only thing holding the two halves together

 

okay so i do remember correctly, and im pretty sure i can handle that, do you guys think you could ship em up here to me? and then let me know how much youd want for em if they end up working. which knowin my luck and past problems, the first try usually isnt the fix = /

 

TJ, I can pick those up from Steve when I drop off the pump tool. Can you wait to get them until next Sunday? You can pick them up at my house then.

 

I can ship out used coils and used wires today if you want. We'll work out a price depending on if they're the fix for you. Obviously shipping costs would be in there. But fed-ex ground runs around 10 bucks for something like that and it would get there by wednesday if I ship it out today.

Let me know for sure and your address.