How is your new water pump going ?
06-15-2007, 07:26 PM
#151
I'm thinking that as well.
I've already got a Koyo rad and I run my fans continuously on high, but I still have engine coolant temps that easily reach 210° to 220° with "spirited" driving on the 100°+ days, even with 80/20 distilled/AF or less and glycerin (Water Wetter).
I've already got a Koyo rad and I run my fans continuously on high, but I still have engine coolant temps that easily reach 210° to 220° with "spirited" driving on the 100°+ days, even with 80/20 distilled/AF or less and glycerin (Water Wetter).
Last edited by MazdaManiac; 11-15-2009 at 09:56 PM.
06-15-2007, 07:36 PM
#152
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you live in AZ?!?! I thought it was Germany... I swear too god I read something German once on your location...
But anyway... I remember there being some coolant substitute that is supposed too lower the coolant temperature simply from being a more heat resistant substance... It was made for Rx-7's, anybody remember what it is? I almost want too say that the title involved some animals name but I'm lost at what it is... Wouldn't using that substitute be a good idea too use at the same time that we'd all install this different pump?
But anyway... I remember there being some coolant substitute that is supposed too lower the coolant temperature simply from being a more heat resistant substance... It was made for Rx-7's, anybody remember what it is? I almost want too say that the title involved some animals name but I'm lost at what it is... Wouldn't using that substitute be a good idea too use at the same time that we'd all install this different pump?
06-15-2007, 07:45 PM
#154
It is propylene glycol (IIRC) and is incompatible with water, so it is a bit tricky to switch. TeamRX8 uses it.
It'll cost about $130 or so to do the swap, but once it is in, you will never need to replace it.
It actually runs a bit hotter than coolant (because of its lower specific heat) but its boiling point is so astronomically high that you run the system with no pressure and you have no "micro boiling", which means no engine hot spots.
06-15-2007, 08:25 PM
#155
I use Evans NPG-R, which is different than the original Evans PG product
NPG-R is thinner/less viscous than the otherr NPG coolants, which means it doesn't suffer the usual flow loss with the OE pump and radiator
NPG-R should be used with at least a 7 psig pressure cap, but Evans recommends that we continue to use the OE cap on the RX-8
Evans recommends swapping NPG-R out at least once every two years for street applications, once a year for race applications, to maintain maximum corrosion protection.
The big cost is the first sequence of flushing and filling because getting all the water out of the coolant system requires using a less costly PG coolant such as the "Sierra" brand to fill and flush the system of any remaining water from the first draining of the original EG coolant prior to installing the Evans. Thereafter you only need to flush and fill with Evans. Currently NPG-R can be bought for about $32/gallon and the OE coolant system is rated at 8.7 qts capacity (2.25 gal)
while I do run the MazdaMotorsports/Speedsource pulley kit, which does reduce the water pulley speed some and eliminate the AC drive, the main focus of the kit is slowing down the alternator. The OE water pump pulley is retained, but the main drive pully is smaller than OE with a much larger than OE alternator pulley
NPG-R is thinner/less viscous than the otherr NPG coolants, which means it doesn't suffer the usual flow loss with the OE pump and radiator
NPG-R should be used with at least a 7 psig pressure cap, but Evans recommends that we continue to use the OE cap on the RX-8
Evans recommends swapping NPG-R out at least once every two years for street applications, once a year for race applications, to maintain maximum corrosion protection.
The big cost is the first sequence of flushing and filling because getting all the water out of the coolant system requires using a less costly PG coolant such as the "Sierra" brand to fill and flush the system of any remaining water from the first draining of the original EG coolant prior to installing the Evans. Thereafter you only need to flush and fill with Evans. Currently NPG-R can be bought for about $32/gallon and the OE coolant system is rated at 8.7 qts capacity (2.25 gal)
while I do run the MazdaMotorsports/Speedsource pulley kit, which does reduce the water pulley speed some and eliminate the AC drive, the main focus of the kit is slowing down the alternator. The OE water pump pulley is retained, but the main drive pully is smaller than OE with a much larger than OE alternator pulley
Last edited by TeamRX8; 06-19-2007 at 07:14 PM.
06-16-2007, 03:21 PM
#158
06-20-2007, 12:57 PM
#162
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06-22-2007, 11:03 AM
#173
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someone should log their water temps with a canscan / scanalyzer and then do it with the new pump
06-22-2007, 02:37 PM
#174
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I'm local to Mazmart and am willing to let them use my car for before and after dyno's if they are willing to cut a deal like pay for the dyno time and install of the part or something like that.
06-22-2007, 03:21 PM
#175
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If you put together a lot of the thoughts provided from the many sharp people in this thread you can understand what we've done and the benefits of it. Most of it is impeller design and proper clearances afforded by design and fitment. The biggest benefits will be to the racer who is running high revs on long straightaways. There are a lot of 8 owners who do track days and it doesn't hurt to avoid cavitation when doing so. The cool thing is that our pump does not need to be slowed down and is more efficient even at low revs; this benefits the typical driver during the summer months in stop and go driving as well.
The icing on the cake is the increase in usable horsepower in the upper revs especially since most designs are very parasitic there as opposed to ours.
Paul.
The icing on the cake is the increase in usable horsepower in the upper revs especially since most designs are very parasitic there as opposed to ours.
Paul.