quick question!!!

would i need a different map for a midpipe??

or would i be able to use the same maps as im using with stock cat

 

^ Depends upon if you are racing on a track.

From what I've seen it doesn't make much differance. You can always go up one iteration.

 

my car lost a lot of power after i install the cobb ap.
do know if it is the ignition kit or the cobb....but my car run like **** now
it backfires a lot (even normal driving), and when i floor it, no matter what gear, when it gets to between 6-7k rpm, it just fuel cut and backfires a lot. now i cant even go pass 7k rpm.
dont know what is wrong. hoping Jeff or Scott can find a solution asap!!

 

What mods do you have other than AP and Mazsport ignition solution?

 

So...it looks like my AFRs are fine now O_o different altitude...would it change that much?

 

Are you running a Turbo?

You could always put the stock coils back in for now.

 

I would say yes. I have a straight pipe welded in where the stock cat used to be. I have used Cobb's stage 1 map N/A and Jeff's maps for the Pettit S/C.

In both cases I had no problem getting LTFT settling down to 0, but STFT up to this point has been no better than -20,20 whether N/A or with my blower hooked up.

Me thinks once someone without a cat gets a custom tune with an AP this will no longer be an issue.

 

It's definitely the mazsport ignition.

I just spoke to Jeff about it, he doesn't yet have the beta software that lets him modify the dwell points. He also doesn't have access to a turbo car with the mazsport ignition to properly test.

I believe he gets home Tuesday, so I'd guess later this week you might hear more about it.

 

Ok thanks I guess i have to Email jeff telling him if i could get a map for a car that is catless


-em

 

It may be the ignition SETTINGS, it may not. There are turbo cars running fine and there are supercharged cars running fine.

That said, after reviewing the factory table it's quite obvious there is ALOT of room for improvement. The table can easily be setup to optimize our ignition system in forced induction applications like we do with the Interceptor-X.

Again it's a very simple table to change, I have the software, Jeff please tell me where to send the link.

I would be more than happy to supply the recommended values to input as well.

Let me know, I'm here and trying to help!

Scott

 

wow i still get the "ERROR there is no update installed in your system"

 

just greddy turbo, greddy RS bov, gutted stock cat and hks hi power exhaust.
not sure if it is because of the signle outlet exhaust cause all the backfires.

did you get all your hp back after you back the stock coils back on?
what a shame, but i actually had to pay $200 for someone to install the ignition kit for me, so i really dont want to take it off yet, unless i know itz a must to take it off!

how soon do you think you and Jeff can solve this problem?
cause i really dont wanna drive my car now, since itz running so shitty!

 

Thanks for all of the effort on this Scott...

 

c41250n im running the same setup as you except i have stock coils and b&b mid pipe but my car runs pretty good, in the upper rpm range 5k-8 has a very light bog but car still goes into boost and mine backfires very rarely after jeff set mine up at the dyno day i feel very confident driving in the street now very soon i plan on getting the cai and hopefully will lean it out just rite to have a completely smooth power band

 

I'm not spending $70 just to see if my hp is back to what it was before, but the car runs strong again.

Why on earth would you pay someone $200 to install the ignition coils?

 

what time to you look at your LTFT to base on which map to go to after the base map. do you look at it at Idle, or WOT or low load? cause i am at +10 LTFT at idle, so i should go to this map correct: MM 2004 MT NA v1_5b.ptm?

 

you got it.

 

good deal. thanks

 

wait a minute, jeff sent me this :If the STFT is a negative value (check only at IDLE), you will use one of
the files that end in "b". If it is a positive value, you will use a file
that ends in "a".

so now i am a little confused. i thought it my LTFT was +10, then i would use a "b" cause then it would subtract that 10 and bring it down to 0. am i wrong?

 

Or you could try this like I did...





I just pulled the OBD2 connector out of the bracket and zip-tied the dongle in place. I still have room to pull the connector out of the dongle for when the AP goes funky, or when I need to hook up my CanScan.

 

The wording above his graph of +/- % is what you go by.

I used the chart he made at first and the STFT was worse after every change.

The a's are the -'s

and the b's are the +'s

use 1_5a to -10%

Above was incorrect Jeff(MM) explained it to me.

Your car is adding +6 fuel so you go ahead and add the fuel by doing a +6 which is the 1_3a which does say adds +6, then the car wil no longer need to add it and it will be at 0. So it is written correctly I think some of us just didn't really understand how it worked.

 

ok. im going to go try it.

 

i know the guy...i thought he was gonna give me a deal, but i guess not!

 

so if i get a negative number, i go with A's?
i thought jeff's email said that if negative then goes with B's

 

No lies, got mine Friday have had it installed for a few days trying different maps, pretty sure that stock config has more power, doesn't struggle in lower rpms. i've ran 3 maps 1a 1b 2b and the 0 map to start out, only tried that 1a cause the b's seemed bad but then a's are worse. If i can do it again.... prob save the 732$ no joke, trying to contact jeff to get my money back, cause the only good thing it did was set the rpm to 830 or so, and maybe if i got a check engine light pop up i could read it but for 732$ for a map thats makes less whp that stock map.... somethings wrong here.