Cobb AccessPORT Discussion
For stuff like autocross, where you hold high RPMS but you are in light throttle 20 inHg or more. You should shoot for 14.7 or below. My base INTx map would go lean since it would see low load (20inHg) and not correct for RPM. I'm in the process of fixing this but I may need new primary 1 injectors.
but at 6500 rpms it drops to 11.1 and then after 7500 rpm it goes up to 12.5
other than that its running great.. I hope stage 2 will see better improvements...
I want to order mazsports midpipe.
if i did would i still be able to use these same maps or would jeff have to send me different ones?
Once i get jeff's stage 2 and my midpipe im heading up to get dynoed..
is it me or is it that in 1st gear the car pulls really hard!
2nd gear it pulls pretty hard..
and
3rd gear its dead it doesnt seem to pull very hard at all as compared to my first two gears..
my afr's are still mid low 13's
is it me or is it that in 1st gear the car pulls really hard!
2nd gear it pulls pretty hard..
and
3rd gear its dead it doesnt seem to pull very hard at all as compared to my first two gears..
my afr's are still mid low 13's
Last edited by 05rx8mazda; Apr 25, 2008 at 12:28 PM.
its normally 1.5-13.5 at full throttle after 5500 RPM
but at 6500 rpms it drops to 11.1 and then after 7500 rpm it goes up to 12.5
other than that its running great.. I hope stage 2 will see better improvements...
I want to order mazsports midpipe.
if i did would i still be able to use these same maps or would jeff have to send me different ones?
but at 6500 rpms it drops to 11.1 and then after 7500 rpm it goes up to 12.5
other than that its running great.. I hope stage 2 will see better improvements...
I want to order mazsports midpipe.
if i did would i still be able to use these same maps or would jeff have to send me different ones?
For stuff like autocross, where you hold high RPMS but you are in light throttle 20 inHg or more. You should shoot for 14.7 or below. My base INTx map would go lean since it would see low load (20inHg) and not correct for RPM. I'm in the process of fixing this but I may need new primary 1 injectors.
For stuff like autocross, where you hold high RPMS but you are in light throttle 20 inHg or more. You should shoot for 14.7 or below. My base INTx map would go lean since it would see low load (20inHg) and not correct for RPM. I'm in the process of fixing this but I may need new primary 1 injectors.
I know this question has been asked before I just can't remember the answer and I really don't want to read through this whole thread again.
I'm on 1_2a if I reflash to stock (going to the dealer), when I install the AP again do I go back to 1_2a? Would the #'s I'm seeing now stay the same when I flash it back to 1_2a? Or do I need to start from scratch again?
I'm on 1_2a if I reflash to stock (going to the dealer), when I install the AP again do I go back to 1_2a? Would the #'s I'm seeing now stay the same when I flash it back to 1_2a? Or do I need to start from scratch again?
Can someone answer the above question?
Seriously considering purchasing a Cobb from MM. What's the consensus, is it worth it for someone who doesn't track his car? Benefits I'm seeking are better throttle response in first and second, better fuel economy and smoother engine revs all the way up to redline.
Thoughts?
In case it matters, in terms of engine/exhaust mods, I have or will soon be installing MS CAI, MS cat back, Mazsport ignition mod, mazsport mid pipe and AP Power Pulley.
Thoughts?
In case it matters, in terms of engine/exhaust mods, I have or will soon be installing MS CAI, MS cat back, Mazsport ignition mod, mazsport mid pipe and AP Power Pulley.
It will definitely give you more back for your buck than all that other stuff you're buying. I would question the pulleys and CAI before questioning the Accessport benefits.
Also the Accessport will help you get the most out of all the stuff you're bolting on.
Also the Accessport will help you get the most out of all the stuff you're bolting on.
dude.. i ask myself the same question was it worth it?? i say if you want power go for turbo.. ive spent so much money on there little bolt ons with minimal gains.. i think i only need a midpipe and its pretty lame..
but the car does feel a ton more responsive! if thats what you want is respponsiveness then get it lol..
I have all of those things you have withoiut the midpipe and adding 9lb flywheel and my buddy with a 2006 civic with intake and header beat me bad lol..
If its power go TURBO!
but the car does feel a ton more responsive! if thats what you want is respponsiveness then get it lol..
I have all of those things you have withoiut the midpipe and adding 9lb flywheel and my buddy with a 2006 civic with intake and header beat me bad lol..
If its power go TURBO!
dude.. i ask myself the same question was it worth it?? i say if you want power go for turbo.. ive spent so much money on there little bolt ons with minimal gains.. i think i only need a midpipe and its pretty lame..
but the car does feel a ton more responsive! if thats what you want is respponsiveness then get it lol..
I have all of those things you have withoiut the midpipe and adding 9lb flywheel and my buddy with a 2006 civic with intake and header beat me bad lol..
If its power go TURBO!
but the car does feel a ton more responsive! if thats what you want is respponsiveness then get it lol..
I have all of those things you have withoiut the midpipe and adding 9lb flywheel and my buddy with a 2006 civic with intake and header beat me bad lol..
If its power go TURBO!
The exhaust stuff is mostly for sound but I'll take every bit of extra performance I can get.
Well my 0-60 is 5.9- 6 seconds flatt
but thats not tryin i know i can do a little better
you tell me?
but my buddies civic SI 2006 is MUCh quicker after header and intake and lowerring springs..
1st gear i pull second he puls and third he beat me by like almost 2 car lengths more like one and a half
little thing is quick
but thats not tryin i know i can do a little better
you tell me?
but my buddies civic SI 2006 is MUCh quicker after header and intake and lowerring springs..
1st gear i pull second he puls and third he beat me by like almost 2 car lengths more like one and a half
little thing is quick
dont waste your money on the pulleys they dont do much for ya..
kinda like this
" Wait.. wait.. I think... mmmm no i dont feel anything" those kinda deals lol you have to try hard to feel any difference
Anyone have success running the AP Manager in WINE. My work computer is Vista x64 and my home system is Ubuntu. No 64 bit drivers. On my home system the access port connects (better than at work), but the AP Manager doesn't realize it's there.
yep if thats what you want get a flywheel, ignition upgrade and cobb..
dont waste your money on the pulleys they dont do much for ya..
kinda like this
" Wait.. wait.. I think... mmmm no i dont feel anything" those kinda deals lol you have to try hard to feel any difference
dont waste your money on the pulleys they dont do much for ya..
kinda like this
" Wait.. wait.. I think... mmmm no i dont feel anything" those kinda deals lol you have to try hard to feel any difference
Guess I'll pull he trigger on the Cobb. Looked at flywheel but too expensive to install -- will wait and change when I need a new clutch
Hopefully Jeff answers his emails soon...I'm running LEAN under WOT STFT is at -1 with the 1_1a map. I've tried using the richer maps that add more, STFT values change...but AF is still lean under WOT. I have uninstalled the AP for now...but I can't monitor anything, should I put the 'stock style map' on?
I also have sr powe rpulleys.. ive been wanting to remove them and sell them but been to lazy to haha
BTW, Ubuntu seems to run the AP Driver (the access port recognizes it's connected to a PC. The AP Manager SW just can't see that. My x64 windows box, however, just powers up the AP and never initializes the drivers.
<rant>Come on cobb, load up VS on an x64 machine and recompile the damned driver.</rant>


