synchronic

If you are now running 10 psi, definitely run the boost-only port. And if you are re-circ'd, there shouldn't be any issues at all. In fact, I still recommend you try A+B ports or just B to boost-vacuum. Each application is different and you should notice a difference between the 2 settings.

Also note that as you run higher boost, or more airflow through the Synchronic BOV, you will get more of a howl, like a supersonic sound.

mysql

actually the greddy maf housing seems to be working just fine, don't have any issues with it right now. once i recirculated my bov, everything worked out ok.

i have a feeling if your car isn't functioning properly right now, the recirculate isn't going to help, but it's worth a try.

mysql

i installed a boost only line today, will try it out in the morning thanks.

Grouch

Damn recirc. fitting is probably gonna take over a week to get to me. My car functions well at pedal position under 20%, and starts up just as good as yours, but under load is like your video, where it gets pinned rich at 10.0, then starts to bog a bit, but not super nasty like, just powerless. It's still backfiring a bit, and the occasional stall.

I guess I'll stick my emu back in for now unless some new ideas surface. it only takes a few minutes to put it in or take it out anyways. hopefully more greddy/ap owners give feedback soon.

mysql

its also possible the map is just too rich. But you have to tread carefully if you investigate in that direction.

Also, are you aware that your intake pipe needs to be modified to accomidate recirculating? Just checking.

steven000e

I really hope my FI installation goes as smoth as possible
However reading what other FI owners are going through I’m getting a little worried I might not have such luck.
I found a accessTuner shop within 2 and half hours from where I am located… would they be able to help if run into problems with my AP on a turbo set up??
Just wondering

steven000e

Thanks
I’ll update as soon as I get my AP

Razz1

This chart shows two RX8 the same except Ngo has a header, and Razz has the Mazsport Ignition w/ lite flywheel

He is running leaner with the same map.
He has varying STFT and LTFT.

Base run is me with a few runs of Ngo. This shows the RPM vs MAF

Since the data is so far aprt on the scale look at the RPM

2nd chart shows

MAF vs RPM

Razz

9056 RPM
226.91 MAF

NgoRX8

9055 RPM
213.97 MAF

kersh4w

iTrader: (3)

what accounts for the drastically different RPM and MAF lines?

blue and yellow, first graph
pink and turquoise, second graph

Razz1

Different gear I believe.

Could be the throttle position which caused a different load.

Both cars contained 527 lbs of pasenger weight same road.

I believe NgoRX8 run may have been in 4th, mine in 3rd.

Grouch

Yeah, I was thinking the 3.5b map is just too rich so I'm waiting to see if Jeff trusts me enough with leaner maps, lol. I'd very carefully move leaner one step at a time. The car does seem like it's not too far off.

Yeah, I gotta pull the pipe slightly below and to the left of the pipe that has my bov out and get a 1" outlet welded on. Is that what you're talking about? I was going to do it right beside the two small outlet nipples, right after the MAF. thanks

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

please tell me that is 3 people ...

shaunv74

I've seen Razz. I wouldn't be suprised if it was four and a body in the trunk.

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

Razz is perfect racer-size.
It would take four of him to hit 527 + a set of golf clubs.

Razz1

Ok Wide Range is the A/F.

But someone requested this.

jackhain

2004 6MT NA:

I'm still trying to find the right map. I've tried everything from "NA 1_3b" thru "NA 1_5a" and I still can't get my trims where I think they should be. My idle STFT on every map I've used will settle down to 0 within a short amount of time, but my idle LTFT will only get down to 12 on "5a". The LTFT was almost always pinned on the "b" series, so I'm sure that can't be good.

Currently I'm running "5a" and my idle STFT hangs around zero +/-1, my idle LTFT sits at 12, and my loaded LTFT drops to zero. I just can't seem to adjust it far enough to get it to zero out.

The original injectors are in the car and have never been cleaned AFAIK. They do have 60,000 miles on them however.

I plan on going FI in the future, so would it be benificial to just upgrade to a higher flowing injector now and kill two birds with one stone? And if so, who/where could I get a good set from? I apologize for this running a little OT.

zoom44

sorry if this has been answered JACKHAIN- have you actually reset your trims?

Razz1

You used 30 maps in 6 days?

Need to let them settle for awhile.

jackhain

Yes I have. Using the AP. I flash the map, turn the key to off, turn it back to on, reset via AP, turn off the car and wait 10+ seconds before starting the engine. I think I'm doing everything right. The one thing I didn't try is the brake pedal method of resetting them, but the AP should be doing the same thing.

jackhain

Four maps...I skipped a couple. I did leave the 1_0 map on there for a few days before changing it. The numbers just never seemed right. I'll leave it alone for the coming week and see where they're at on Friday.

r0tor

iTrader: (1)

Jeff - the new maps are looking pretty good...

- idle was dead perfect the moment I started her up!
- i'm finally seeing non frightening afr's again!
- LTFT's are a 0 everywhere so far

i'll continue monitoring before calling it a complete success, but its looking pretty damn good

MazdaManiac

iTrader: (3)

That's good to hear. A few others are reporting similar success.
We will start trimming those tunes up a bit for more high-end power.

zoom44

try it then- ACTUALLY reset your LTFT with the COBB and then check it before you do anything else. If its not at zero then do it the correct way

OnRails

I've achieved similiar results with the new maps Jeff has sent me. I am very pleased so far! Thanks Jeff!

r0tor - I'm sure you have posted this elsewhere but what mods do you have? I am running the MS CAI and a midpipe.

jackhain

I'll give it a shot. Right after I reset via the AP, the car idles poorly. The STFT starts in the mid 20s and slowly counts down to 0 while the LTFT climbs up to compensate. I'll still try resetting it using the "official" method, but I suspect I'll get the same results. Thanks for your help.