Cobb AccessPORT Discussion
03-19-2008, 08:03 PM
#526
STFT and LTFT holding steady...AFR's look good still across loads...flashing 2.0 to poke around...
The unit's plug is really sensitive...its either wiggling to the point the power is becoming interrupted or my AP is rebooting...I'm willing to bet its the cable as it happens when in the center console taking vibration...
The unit's plug is really sensitive...its either wiggling to the point the power is becoming interrupted or my AP is rebooting...I'm willing to bet its the cable as it happens when in the center console taking vibration...
03-19-2008, 08:17 PM
#527
There was always the sense with the EMU that the PCM could just say "f*ck you" at any given moment, throwing all the careful tuning out the window.
For the most part, when it did say that, the tuning was designed to be safe.
But there was always the sense that it was a high-wire act.
The Int-X always seemed like the thickest, driest condom you could ever imagine. No matter how you positioned yourself, you could never really feel like you were actually accomplishing anything.
From an N/A perspective, there are a whole butt-load of things that Mazda did because they had to for one reason or another.
We now have the ability to say "f*ck you" right back at the PCM.
I sent this complaint up the chain. Hopefully, I'll get some sort of resolution.
Mine needs wiggling, too.
Last edited by MazdaManiac; 03-19-2008 at 08:21 PM.
03-19-2008, 08:19 PM
#528
03-19-2008, 08:21 PM
#529
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I flashed mine at work during lunchtime with 1_0. As you might expect, the idle was ****, but it cleared up after a few laps around the building. The idle STFT settled at 0 to -1. My LTFT started out pegged at 25 and eventually dropped to 20-22 during idle, and it dropped to a flat 0 when the RPMs climbed to cruising speed.
The 15 mile ride home was a pure treat. I took it easy for the first few miles while watching the LTFT stabilize. I couldn't resist putting my foot down when traffic cleared up, and it was good
If I ever TC this car it will probably kill me...literally. Very impressed Jeff.
BTW, my 8 is completely stock. No CAI...stock exhaust....stock cat. The only things I've changed is the fluids all around.
The 15 mile ride home was a pure treat. I took it easy for the first few miles while watching the LTFT stabilize. I couldn't resist putting my foot down when traffic cleared up, and it was good
If I ever TC this car it will probably kill me...literally. Very impressed Jeff.BTW, my 8 is completely stock. No CAI...stock exhaust....stock cat. The only things I've changed is the fluids all around.
03-19-2008, 08:43 PM
#531
Drive it like u stole it!
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alright....just got done playing some more....
stft.. at idle is 0 or +1...+-7 while driving normal....+-2 at WOT
ltft....idle is 1....2-3 while cruising.....2-3 at WOT
engine load at WOT is 98-102%
AF at idle is 14.8-14.9
AF at WOT fluctuates but averages as follows
4000 rpm: 14.6
5000 rpm: 14.3
6000 rpm: 14.0
7000 rpm: 14.5
8000 rpm: 14.8
9000 rpm: 15.1
while driving i had one pull that put out AF of 13.2-13.6 from about 5000-6500 rpm... edit....STAGE 1v_1 A
Jeff, do i need different calibrations to lower my AF???
stft.. at idle is 0 or +1...+-7 while driving normal....+-2 at WOT
ltft....idle is 1....2-3 while cruising.....2-3 at WOT
engine load at WOT is 98-102%
AF at idle is 14.8-14.9
AF at WOT fluctuates but averages as follows
4000 rpm: 14.6
5000 rpm: 14.3
6000 rpm: 14.0
7000 rpm: 14.5
8000 rpm: 14.8
9000 rpm: 15.1
while driving i had one pull that put out AF of 13.2-13.6 from about 5000-6500 rpm... edit....STAGE 1v_1 A
Jeff, do i need different calibrations to lower my AF???
Last edited by chancejat; 03-19-2008 at 10:03 PM.
03-19-2008, 08:49 PM
#532
I will forever miss my 8!
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I want to buy it now however something tells me to hang around for a bit longer until all greddy turbo fixes and bugs are taking care of….
MM do you offer a replacement for the MAF tube for those of us who have the greddy kit? Or is there any way to make it work better with the greddy MAF?
Just wondering
MM do you offer a replacement for the MAF tube for those of us who have the greddy kit? Or is there any way to make it work better with the greddy MAF?
Just wondering
03-19-2008, 09:18 PM
#533
Ok, as long as we are posting numbers.
this by pasenger observation. So not true data log.
Stage 1b
Full load
4000 rpm:
5000 rpm:
6000 rpm:
7000 rpm: 13.6
8000 rpm: 13.3
9000 rpm: 12.1
Part load
4000 rpm:
5000 rpm: 12.9
6000 rpm: 13.0
7000 rpm: 14.0
8000 rpm: 13.5
9000 rpm: 12.1
this by pasenger observation. So not true data log.
Stage 1b
Full load
4000 rpm:
5000 rpm:
6000 rpm:
7000 rpm: 13.6
8000 rpm: 13.3
9000 rpm: 12.1
Part load
4000 rpm:
5000 rpm: 12.9
6000 rpm: 13.0
7000 rpm: 14.0
8000 rpm: 13.5
9000 rpm: 12.1
03-19-2008, 09:36 PM
#535
Last thing you want to have happen is sneeze mid-flash and trash the ECU because it was on your lap or in your hand...
Seriously...this cable is bothering me that much...
I'm also going to relocate the ODBII port...thats too close to the clutch and I keep grazing the dongle...if the dongle was right angled...but the better solution is to relocate the port...and hardwire the USB cable into the car...
Stage 2 installed...so far so good...
Last edited by eviltwinkie; 03-19-2008 at 09:43 PM.
03-19-2008, 09:53 PM
#537
Not 100% certain...I have yet to really poke at it...but I would suspect its just the cable interface...a simple fix would be to add a small thumb screw to the cable to mate to the dongle and the AP. I have some USB cables at my office with them, I might just make my own cable and modify the case to accept a good screw...heh
03-19-2008, 09:54 PM
#538
Another beautiful thing about the AccessPORT - recovery mode.
You don't want to try to brick your ECU, but if the flash gets interrupted, the AP will fix it.
I had to try it as part of the beta test. I nearly pissed myself when I yanked the cable mid flash.
The PCM was dead as a doornail, and the recovery mode made it right again.
Now, I'm not saying you can't brick your PCM (make something idiot-proof and they'll finder a better idiot), but it is not a major concern.
03-19-2008, 09:56 PM
#539
You won't trash it.
Another beautiful thing about the AccessPORT - recovery mode.
You don't want to try to brick your ECU, but if the flash gets interrupted, the AP will fix it.
I had to try it as part of the beta test. I nearly pissed myself when I yanked the cable mid flash.
The PCM was dead as a doornail, and the recovery mode made it right again.
Now, I'm not saying you can't brick your PCM (make something idiot-proof and they'll finder a better idiot), but it is not a major concern.
Another beautiful thing about the AccessPORT - recovery mode.
You don't want to try to brick your ECU, but if the flash gets interrupted, the AP will fix it.
I had to try it as part of the beta test. I nearly pissed myself when I yanked the cable mid flash.
The PCM was dead as a doornail, and the recovery mode made it right again.
Now, I'm not saying you can't brick your PCM (make something idiot-proof and they'll finder a better idiot), but it is not a major concern.
03-19-2008, 09:56 PM
#540
I think the mold the dongle was made with had a slight error for that one pin causing it to wiggle around and not sit firmly like the other pins. When I flash I put the AP down and hit the flash button. I then don't touch anything till it's done.
BUT
I haven't had the AP stop working till I turn off the car, then it can't establish a connection. I've also wiggled the connection while the AP was in Live Data mode and it ran just fine.
So it appears to be some issue with the hardware not being able to continue to stay connected after the car was shut off. At least that's been my experience with it.
BUT
I haven't had the AP stop working till I turn off the car, then it can't establish a connection. I've also wiggled the connection while the AP was in Live Data mode and it ran just fine.
So it appears to be some issue with the hardware not being able to continue to stay connected after the car was shut off. At least that's been my experience with it.
03-19-2008, 10:00 PM
#542
I think the mold the dongle was made with had a slight error for that one pin causing it to wiggle around and not sit firmly like the other pins. When I flash I put the AP down and hit the flash button. I then don't touch anything till it's done.
BUT
I haven't had the AP stop working till I turn off the car, then it can't establish a connection. I've also wiggled the connection while the AP was in Live Data mode and it ran just fine.
So it appears to be some issue with the hardware not being able to continue to stay connected after the car was shut off. At least that's been my experience with it.
BUT
I haven't had the AP stop working till I turn off the car, then it can't establish a connection. I've also wiggled the connection while the AP was in Live Data mode and it ran just fine.
So it appears to be some issue with the hardware not being able to continue to stay connected after the car was shut off. At least that's been my experience with it.
The other "fail" I've seen is when it seems to lose its data feed and just displays the max value for any of the data modes.
But then again its been running pretty much non-stop since it's arrived when the car is on as I monitor the changes...so its not that big of a deal to me...
03-19-2008, 10:30 PM
#543
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AFR at idle is spot on, but I would be scared to run those AFR's at WOT. When I was tuning the Int-x, taking it above 13.8 didnt really gain me any power, and if anything, I lost some power. 13.0 seems to be the sweet spot, at least from my experience.
03-19-2008, 10:31 PM
#544
I'm sorry if this was answered already, but if one were to get the Pettit SC(don't flame me) would the AP work better or would the INT-X be better since it was tested with it...or does it matter? Sorry newbie question.....
03-19-2008, 10:39 PM
#545
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Oh, I thought you wanted the values too because you said, "If you uninstall the AP and drive the car around the block (NOT IN BOOST), are the STFT/LTFT still strange?" but I couldn't check the stft/ltft in OE calibration. But as for how it ran not in boost, with the OE calibration, it ran perfectly like a regular stock 8. Now I put it back in 3.5b as per my previous posts and am awaiting further instructins, and letting the number of drive cycles increase to see if it smooths out, but it's still as described earlier.
Last edited by Grouch; 03-19-2008 at 10:42 PM.
03-19-2008, 11:26 PM
#548
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03-20-2008, 12:19 AM
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If you use the stock greddy kit tell jeff you need the 3.5" maf housing map.
Also, I can finally report something worthwhile. This afternoon Jeff mailed me the 3.5" greddy maf maps ....
I pulled the old maf housing, and reinstalled the greddy maf housing. Guess what? I can now accelerate AND...
I can now boost.
AFR's were upper 10's to low 11's in the two minutes I tested it. The car is drivable BUT it is not perfectly smooth. I'm willing to bet $100 that the greddy maf housing reduces, then enlarges around the maf sensor, then reduces again, in order to straighten out the air around the maf. But this doesn't make the air perfectly smooth and so the car runs good enough, but it's not the perfect smoothness that I would like. I also assume that once the airflow is smooth, the AFR's under boost will become rock solid and not bounce around much.
Thus I'm still anxiously awaiting the custom CAI that has ~4" of piping on either side of the maf to have smooth airflow. Meanwhile, the car is once again drivable! wooooot.
I can make a video if anyone is interested in seeing. I didn't bother since there's nothing "new" for me to show besides a car driving around.
Also, I can finally report something worthwhile. This afternoon Jeff mailed me the 3.5" greddy maf maps ....
I pulled the old maf housing, and reinstalled the greddy maf housing. Guess what? I can now accelerate AND...
I can now boost.
AFR's were upper 10's to low 11's in the two minutes I tested it. The car is drivable BUT it is not perfectly smooth. I'm willing to bet $100 that the greddy maf housing reduces, then enlarges around the maf sensor, then reduces again, in order to straighten out the air around the maf. But this doesn't make the air perfectly smooth and so the car runs good enough, but it's not the perfect smoothness that I would like. I also assume that once the airflow is smooth, the AFR's under boost will become rock solid and not bounce around much.
Thus I'm still anxiously awaiting the custom CAI that has ~4" of piping on either side of the maf to have smooth airflow. Meanwhile, the car is once again drivable! wooooot.
I can make a video if anyone is interested in seeing. I didn't bother since there's nothing "new" for me to show besides a car driving around.
