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Old 03-20-2008, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
Actually, now that your trims are stabilizing, you add up the LTFT and STFT and use the calibrations that corrects the result.

If you have a sum that is, say -4, go to the calibration that is 2 values up in the "b" series.
Doing so *should* then have the effect of STFT hovering back to 0 and the LTFT dropping to 0...under ideal conditions...correct?
Old 03-20-2008, 12:48 PM
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Correct.
Old 03-20-2008, 12:58 PM
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Just making sure to confirm my suspicions...thanks...
Old 03-20-2008, 03:03 PM
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When this thread is quiet I get lonely. I hope the mailman delivered my AP today.

MM, when you shipped via not-UPS did you get a tracking number or did you just lick a handful of stamps and throw it in a mailbox?
Old 03-20-2008, 03:46 PM
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Hey MM, I had replied Tuesday to your email about informing you when I got my AP. I got it Tues and emailed you that evening requesting maps for my car. Don't know if you just overlooked my email or I overlooked your reply, but I didn't get the maps from you yet.

My email I replied to you with was iomag@ragnar1.net

I know you are pretty busy, but when you get a chance, can you send them to me?
My info again is 2006 GT, completely stock as far as the engine goes, and I am in Minneapolis.

Thanks!
Old 03-20-2008, 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by qtwre
When this thread is quiet I get lonely. I hope the mailman delivered my AP today.

MM, when you shipped via not-UPS did you get a tracking number or did you just lick a handful of stamps and throw it in a mailbox?
Heh...only reason I've been quiet is that I have a TON of work...amid playing with muh AP...

Everything is still hunky dory...contemplating moving to 3.0...gonna need another fill up soon...shell 93 so far every time...
Old 03-20-2008, 04:13 PM
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Our Shell is 92 up here - still on first tank.

where's that blasted cable...
Old 03-20-2008, 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Nemesis8
Our Shell is 92 up here - still on first tank.

where's that blasted cable...
What cable??
Attached Thumbnails Cobb AccessPORT Discussion-photo_032008_001.jpg  
Old 03-20-2008, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by eviltwinkie
What cable??
He can't find his scanalyzer.
Old 03-20-2008, 05:05 PM
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for those of you with the greddy turbo kit...do you still have that intake manifold block off plate installed?
Old 03-20-2008, 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Im_DANomite
for those of you with the greddy turbo kit...do you still have that intake manifold block off plate installed?
get rid of that crap. You can remove it by unscrewing 4 bolts or so and sliding it out. No need to pull the whole manifold off.
Old 03-20-2008, 05:13 PM
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on my way home from work i gunned it and saw a bunch of 14's and then a 15.5 pop up on the screen at 7000 rpms and i immediately got a giant lump in my throat and backed off... something is wrong. My idle and cruise afr was also around 15.0-15.2 more often then not which seemed too high but i'm not sure if thats where it was set.

I flashed to Cobb's stage 1 and have some grumpy idle problems like normal after a reset. Hit half throttle and saw much more comforting mid to low 13's at 6k rpms. I think i will explore that map more for a little while.

Last edited by r0tor; 03-20-2008 at 05:18 PM.
Old 03-20-2008, 05:17 PM
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took the car up to 10 psi just now. Afr is a slight bit leaner. 10.8 afr. But I only glanced at it only for a sec.
Old 03-20-2008, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by mysql
get rid of that crap. You can remove it by unscrewing 4 bolts or so and sliding it out. No need to pull the whole manifold off.
what's it for anyways? i never understood it
Old 03-20-2008, 05:30 PM
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i'm going to go remove it right now!
Old 03-20-2008, 05:56 PM
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too late...i removed it. if something bad happens, it's all your fault. and i get something free from your store.
Old 03-20-2008, 06:04 PM
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even if the aux ports do open, i shouldn't see a drop in pressure. greddy keeps telling me it was put it to help with the tuning aspect.

what is this really cool kit? how 'bout some free Defi gauges? hahaha
Old 03-20-2008, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by r0tor
on my way home from work i gunned it and saw a bunch of 14's and then a 15.5 pop up on the screen at 7000 rpms and i immediately got a giant lump in my throat and backed off... something is wrong. My idle and cruise afr was also around 15.0-15.2 more often then not which seemed too high but i'm not sure if thats where it was set.

I flashed to Cobb's stage 1 and have some grumpy idle problems like normal after a reset. Hit half throttle and saw much more comforting mid to low 13's at 6k rpms. I think i will explore that map more for a little while.
good to see im not the only one....i guess ill give cobbs flash a try until jeff comes up with a solution......do you have a cat????
Old 03-20-2008, 07:18 PM
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I raised the boost to 10 psi and this evening I took it up to 6,000 rpm in 5th gear. The car started to bog down and when I looked at the wideband, it read 10.0 AFR (it doesn't read any richer). So the issue I had with accelerating with the crap maf housing is appearing for me with the higher boost + higher rpms with the greddy maf housing. I didn't have any issue with the lower gears + WOT at 7 psi, so I'm guessing the greddy maf housing is decent but not perfect.

The car runs great though. It pulls like a train. I don't want to make any adjustments or changes till I get the CAI in place. No sense in tuning for hack hardware.
Old 03-20-2008, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by chancejat
good to see im not the only one....i guess ill give cobbs flash a try until jeff comes up with a solution......do you have a cat????
I have solutions. I'm just swamped. Gimme a couple of hours to catch back up.

Originally Posted by mysql
I didn't have any issue with the lower gears + WOT at 7 psi, so I'm guessing the greddy maf housing is decent but not perfect.
Actually, its probably the scaling of your P2 injectors.
The scaling algorythm is not perfect and since your P2s are bigger than those in my car, I had to take an educated guess at the value and scale it slightly rich for safety's sake.
Which calibration are you running now?
Old 03-20-2008, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
I have solutions. I'm just swamped. Gimme a couple of hours to catch back up.
thanks jeff.....
Old 03-20-2008, 08:10 PM
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just got back from the store and noticed a wierd metal ringing sound coming from the middle of my dash....but only at heavier throttle....i think it may be "marbles in a can"....im going to switch to stock flash and see if it goes away....btw im still running with MM's 1_1 A map.....
Old 03-20-2008, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by mysql
If you have the synchronic bov, you will need to recirculate. It reacts to any little throttle lift by opening up (even with the anti stall fitting) and causes drivability issues. Other BOVs need quite a bit more PSI to activate and aren't going to be opening up at -12 psi reading on your boost gauge, so they aren't going to cause the issues I currently have.
Some tuning tweaks you might want to try that could make a difference are the following:

1) Run only Port B on the back of the BOV instead of running both ports
2) Increase the pre-load of the spring

Make sure though that you are always running boost-only port if you are running anything over 7 psi of boost. And only stick with setup #1 so long as you are not getting any compressor flutter or flutterdump. You can also run #1 with the pre-load spring completely removed.

Here's what you don't want to hear:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ffj01k64AZI
Old 03-20-2008, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by r0tor
on my way home from work i gunned it and saw a bunch of 14's and then a 15.5 pop up on the screen at 7000 rpms and i immediately got a giant lump in my throat and backed off... something is wrong. My idle and cruise afr was also around 15.0-15.2 more often then not which seemed too high but i'm not sure if thats where it was set.

I flashed to Cobb's stage 1 and have some grumpy idle problems like normal after a reset. Hit half throttle and saw much more comforting mid to low 13's at 6k rpms. I think i will explore that map more for a little while.
Are you NA?

Anyway try the 1.b map, that should fix the top end.
Old 03-20-2008, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
Which calibration are you running now?
Using 3 5b. The LTFT was +5 and the STFT at idle was -3 today.




Originally Posted by synchronic
1) Run only Port B on the back of the BOV instead of running both ports
2) Increase the pre-load of the spring

Make sure though that you are always running boost-only port if you are running anything over 7 psi of boost. And only stick with setup #1 so long as you are not getting any compressor flutter or flutterdump. You can also run #1 with the pre-load spring completely removed.
At 7 psi there was no issue, at 10, I did hear some surge. Previously I ran with the boost only hooked up, and the two ports hooked up to vacuum. That was OK, but the car didn't feel as good as when the boost-only was removed. The reason was I had not been recirculating the BOV, so when I gradually accelerate and am at -10 psi, air is escaping out the BOV and it takes more throttle to transition into boost. Without the boost-only connection, at -12 psi, the BOV clamps shut and it's easier to get into boost since air isn't escaping and thus more air is pushed into the engine.

Now that I'm recirculating, will the boost-only connection work in my favor?


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